Honda Generators for Air conditioning

[paul_judd]

I have a 30 foot Kit Companion bumper pull trailer we just bought. I want to buy a Honda Generator to run air conditioner. I think it is 13,500 BTUs. Wondering if the smaller Honda 2,000 will handle the air conditioner? Any thoughts? Suggestions?

[Tequila]

My honda 2000 will run my 13.5 A/C, but I have to turn off the occonvertor so its not trying to charge the battery at the same time and force the fridge to gas.

[blksmith]

My Honda will run the A/c If you start it on a warm setting and once its running turn the a/c to coldest setting. If the a/c cycles it won't re start it. better than nothing either reaql hot or real cold..
TJ

[sushidog]

Robin25113 wrote:
I wonder why the RV manufacturers don't consider split A/C systems? I really like the EER ratings.

Exactly. You could run 2 of these 12,000 Btu 21.43 EER mini-split ACs from one EU2000 Honda. http://www.geinnovations.net/HSAC_Productline.html

The problem is cost. Two of these mini-split heat pumps will run $4,000, not counting the cost of two $364 converter chargers to run these native 48v DC devices off of 120v AC power. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DLS-54-13-IOTA-CONVERTER-CHARGER-13-AMP-108-132-VAC-NEW-/321783735939?vxp=mtr&hash=item4aebce2683

However looked at another way, you could run one of these 12,000 BTU ACs all night on 8 golf cart batteries recharged by solar, drawing at most only 560 watts (11.5 amps of 48v DC power.)

In fact my next travel trailer will be set-up for full-time off-grid boondocking, using one of these super high-efficiency mini-split heat pumps and about 2,000 watts of solar for totally self-sufficient power production. I'll start with 10, GC-2 (golf cart) batteries for my storage needs with both a 12v electrical system (for slides, lights, fridge board, heater blower, etc.), and a 48v electrical system for the 48v DC heat pump and inverter to power all my 120v AC devices. The single EU2000 Honda I plan on using for backup battery charging in case of inclement weather, when solar is ineffective will be more than sufficient for my recharging needs through a 2000w 48v AIMS pure sine inverter charger like this. http://www.amazon.com/Power-PICOGLF20W48V120V-2000W-Inverter-Charger/dp/B00IRKZPE6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1425476298&sr=8-8&keywords=48v+inverter

Chip

[pianotuna]

Yes which is why I use a hybrid inverter fed by a Yamaha 2800 inverter genny.

Luv2Q wrote:
DB, if the Eco throttles are on, do you get a lag (short brown-out) when the compressor cycles on? That's what my dual setup does, & I'm wondering if it can damage the ac.

[Luv2Q]

deltabravo wrote:

...
Late summer I bought a second EU2000i, the companion model.

All is well now. I will take both gens if I want to run the A/C.
...

DB, if the Eco throttles are on, do you get a lag (short brown-out) when the compressor cycles on? That's what my dual setup does, & I'm wondering if it can damage the ac.

[deltabravo]

I agree with others that say "most likely not"

I bought a EU2000i in 2001. In 2003 I bought a Desert Fox toy hauler with 13.5K BTU A/C. running it on the gen was hit and miss. Mostly a "miss"

In 2010 I sold the toy hauler and got a truck camper, also with a 13.5k BTU A/C. Same story, second verse. It was mostly a MISS with running the A/C. Late summer I bought a second EU2000i, the companion model.

All is well now. I will take both gens if I want to run the A/C.

for Fall/Spring camping, I will only take one gen.

[Luv2Q]

This may properly need to be a thread of its own but, since it's on the topic of Honda EU2000s to run ac, I'm hoping this will be ok.

I just got the EU2000 + Companion to run a 13,500 Dometic. With Eco throttles off (running at higher RPM), no issues. With Eco on, however, the EMS throws a low voltage error because there's a short lag before the gennies spool up. I can bypass the EMS which keeps the ac going despite a momentary 101/102 voltage reading (as shown by a Kil-a-Wat).

Question: Will a short duration brown-out (maybe a second or less) cause any damage to the ac?

Thanks in advance to anyone who cares to weigh in.

John

[Atlee]

I just carry two EU2000i generators, one being the Companion. But I do not camp in campgrounds that limit generator hours, nor do I camp in commercial campgrounds.

In the fall I got to football games. We tailgate (camp) in an open field. In September, the temperature often requires the AC. On most weekends in Oct, and all weekends in Nov, we don't need AC. For those weekends, I'll still hook up both generators, but will only run one at a time.

In November, I need enough electricity to run an electric heater.

[Huntindog]

The problem with all of these "tricks" is that they may work fine, when having the AC is just a "nice to have" thing.... But will likely not work when it becomes a necessity.
In AZ, I may NEED the AC to work when its 115 or hotter out. Having a generator that may or may not do the job is not something I will tolerate.
YMMV

[SoundGuy]

colliehauler wrote:
Like I said Sound guy to each his own. In other words they can do as they wish. To me it does not make sense to go to all that trouble.:R

So in other words we agree. 😉

[MM49]

colliehauler wrote:
Like I said Sound guy to each his own. In other words they can do as they wish. To me it does not make sense to go to all that trouble.:R

+1
I use a Yamaha 3000 SEBi I plug it in and run anything I want, within reason. Most of the time I have several other campers pluged in for battery charging. The best purchase is the one that does the job for you.
mm49

[colliehauler]

Like I said Sound guy to each his own. In other words they can do as they wish. To me it does not make sense to go to all that trouble.:R

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
....snip......
If one isn't willing to do that then the alternate solution is a larger genset that can handle, without stumbling, the significantly increased load when the A/C compressor starts ... seems obvious to me. :S

TomG2 wrote:
Good points. Most people, me included, have always followed the path of "If 200 hp is good, 300 hp is better". I don't think the Honda 2000i is up to handling air conditioning needs under all possible conditions, but with a little work and experimentation it might do for some. I like your fan switch idea and when operating my unit, I do not let it cycle by setting the thermostat at its lowest position.

colliehauler wrote:
I just can't understand why someone would want to deal with something so marginal at best. Hard start capacitor, turning fan on before compressor, turning A/C down so it doesn't cycle, putting in different thermostat all to be able to use a underpowered generator. What if a person wants to use a microwave, toaster or hair dryer, you have to go through the rigmarole to start the A/C back up.

I like the two people who built trays to take a large generator that can run everything. One was 6500k another was 7000k generator both quiet models.

I understand taking a small generator along if you just want to charge batteries.

To each his own.

Hey, I personally don't bother trying to power A/C with my own EU2000i and instead only use it for recharging the battery and occasionally providing power to the trailer so we can use the toaster, coffee maker, wife's hair dryer, etc. However, the OP did ask and since I've been through the process of understanding just what is involved I merely detailed what I've found are "technicalities" that will significantly improve the chances of this working ... whether the OP is interested in doing so is entirely up to him.

BTW, adding a hard start capacitor isn't just a genset related issue, rather any A/C will start more readily even on shore power if so equipped ... I recently added one to my current Dometic Brisk II, just as I did a few years ago to the Coleman Mach 3+ we owned at the time, and for the minor investment involved I see no reason not to add one. As for the fan, you've got it backwards - you want to set it up so the compressor starts first without the fan, then switch the fan on after the compressor stabilizes. Installing a different thermostat has nothing to do with running the A/C on a genset ... I do it because the digital models I've installed control temperature swings much more accurately than any stock bi-metal thermo and in the case of the Honeywell I'm currently using is much easier to see with it's backlit screen. As for those so-called "quiet" gensets you referred to - there is no such thing as a "quiet" generator, they all make noise foreign to a campground. :E

[TomG2]

colliehauler wrote:
I just can't understand why someone would want to deal with something so marginal at best. Hard start capacitor, turning fan on before compressor, turning A/C down so it doesn't cycle, putting in different thermostat all to be able to use a underpowered generator. What if a person wants to use a microwave, toaster or hair dryer, you have to go through the rigmarole to start the A/C back up.

I like the two people who built trays to take a large generator that can run everything. One was 6500k another was 7000k generator both quiet models.

I understand taking a small generator along if you just want to charge batteries.

To each his own.

Why? Because it is fun to experiment and make things work that others think won't. I only use mine to cool down for short periods when traveling. I seldom travel to locations where AC is mandatory anyway. We all have to manage usage somewhat. The average 30 amp service will not run "everything" at once.