I need 3 rows of seats and more towing power....

[anw7405]

I'm just looking for ideas at this point. I had a 2000 suburban with 3.73 gears and the 5.3 and it was not enough to pull my travel trailer good. I broke down and got a 2007 6.2 denali with a 3.42 rear end because everyone said it was a great tow vehicle. We just got back from our first trip in the ozark mountains and I was less than impressed with it. I want to be able to go out west and not worry about my tow vehicle. Long story short the tranny and engine ran pretty hot and made knocking noises at random times. I will keep this for now probably with an additional tranny cooler but what do I need to look for. Old 8.1 burb? 2008 and above with the 6.0 2500 burb. diesel excursion? anybody have any experience with these? I bought a light travel trailer for this specific reason at 4,650 lbs...probably around 6,000 with all weight added.

[Grit_dog]

Yup that'll tow better.
I still maintain, if just one of the big 3 put a 3/4 ton SUV with a big gasser and a diesel option back on the market they would sell OUT!
Newest 3/4 ton big block Burbs are what 12 years old now? Newest 6 liter 2500burbs are 7 years old and rare. Excursions are all getting beat into the ground and the diesel versions were outfitted with the worst motor of the last 20 years and Dodge never even tried.

Huge gap in this cheap fuel/good economy market.
I don't understand.

[anw7405]

Old thread but I figured I would give it a small update. Even with a fresh engine in the denali it just struggled too much. Its just not a good towing setup. So, its gone and I now have a 2005 8.1 burb. I've only towed a few miles with it so far but it is a night and day difference. You can tell this is a purpose built vehicle. I will give it a good test this weekend on the same trip I took with the denali. Something tells me it will pass with flying colors.

[anw7405]

When I asked about the engine, they just said that the warranty company and them both agreed that there was enough metal in the engine oil to justify a new engine. I don't think they will ever know exactly where it came from because they are not going to tear it apart.

[Grit_dog]

anw7405 wrote:
I just got a call from the dealership and they are replacing the engine. All I have to pay is my $100 deductible. It is a remanufactured gm engine with a 3 year/ 100,000 mile warranty. I'm also going to pay to put new belts on just because.

Sweet! Everyone could use a new engine for $100. Glad it's working out for you.
Belts? Like the serpentine belt? There's only 1 on pretty much all newer vehicles.
Good $50 to spend if the old one has 100k or more on it. Keep the old as a spare.

[HaulinBass02]

Did they say what happened to the other engine? Kinda important to know because if it was something preventable we can help figure out what caused it and how to stop it from happening again.....

[anw7405]

I just got a call from the dealership and they are replacing the engine. All I have to pay is my $100 deductible. It is a remanufactured gm engine with a 3 year/ 100,000 mile warranty. I'm also going to pay to put new belts on just because.

[anw7405]

hawkeye-08 wrote:
I see a fit for a Duraburb (2500 Suburban with Duramax). There are several companies that do these conversions.

I seen those a few years ago. Those are awesome. I would love to get one of those.

[BenK]

Oh, forgot to touch on the dealer saying, IIRC, to check the filter/etc for 'metal filings'...

Not going to find much from pre-ignition/knock damage, as it will be chunks or
bits of metal that will sink to the bottom of the oil pan

Filings are smaller and lighter that will, most times, flow with the oil.

Generally, filings are from rotational issues. Like a bearing going bad

[BenK]

To the PM...details are off the top while having my coffee and IIRC...

Normal combustion temperature in the CC for a gasser runs around 250*F to 500*F
Higher for performance gassers and even higher for forced fed gassers

Melting of aluminum alloy is around 800*F to just above 1,200*F and pure
alu is around 1,200*F

Melting point of cast iron is round 2,000*F

Pre-ignition/knock temperatures can be around 1,800*F to 2,000*F, so high enough
to melt either metals...but there are other thermal attributes working here

Thermal inertia (both to hold and move it around...path ways) will not allow
the liner or piston get that hot on just one pre-ignition/knock cycle...

There is also a boundary layer of air/fuel molecules between the flame front
and the metal surface. Normal flame front that is and with pre-ignition/knock
it is much, much faster (shock wave effect) that causes other areas within the
CC to explode (not burn like a controlled ignition combustion) that will have
those molecules next to the metal surface EXPLODE to cause another shock wave
going back to the original shock wave to collide

Marry that EXPLOSION with the higher temperatures from pre-ignition/knock...it
can and will melt either or both metals inside an ICE CC (combustion chamber)

Thermal expansion characteristics has different rates for each one,
but that area will have to actually look up, as that was never a
study area of mine during college strength of materials classes

This is the simplified explanation of how pre-ignition/knock can and does
destroy ICE's

If the metal is not melted, then the damage from those shock waves can and will
crack (over stress) metal surfaces and into their thickness...to blow holes
into stuff

[hawkeye-08]

I see a fit for a Duraburb (2500 Suburban with Duramax). There are several companies that do these conversions.

[PAThwacker]

anw7405 wrote:

PAThwacker wrote:
5.3 half ton burbs are meant for daycare.

??? Is this just a general statement or did someone mention a 5.3 suburban somewhere?

Denali subs as well.......credit acceptance vehicles of the year.
Towing subs are in the K2500 variety for a reason.

[anw7405]

No word yet.

[Grit_dog]

That sucks to hear!
07, so aftermarket purchased warranty presumably? Stay on them. Everyone I know who's dealt with an add on warranty like that get dragged through the mud. Some came out while on the other end some got hosed.
Hope for the best result in your case.

[BenK]

Turtle...thanks..thought it should be cast in liners...

Bi-metal strips used for anything to do with measuring and/or tripping a switch
like your home thermometer, etc...uses a bi-metal strip coil

Where the strip has two different metals fused together and then wound into a coil

As it heats/cools, it will move because of the difference in thermal expansion
and contraction rates of each metal working on the other side

Not difference with cast iron liner cast into an aluminum block, but much thicker
sections..so the movement is held from moving...until one or both metals reaches
a certain temperature...where it can wrap the thinner material and in this case
guessing the liner

Pre-ignition/knock/etc attains a much higher temp than normal running and why
it can and does melt pistons, valves, etc

Not the whole block, but in the CC area. There is such a thing as wrapped blocks
and heads....cast iron and aluminum without liners

Maybe they will scope it through the spark plug holes

Also, go back to Turtle's original comment to check your radiator stack, which
is the ATF Aux radiator, then the AC radiator, then the main engine coolant radiator.
Lots of stuff can get in there to block good air flow

Hope they warranty your engine and good luck with that

[HaulinBass02]

So what's the status of your Denali?