Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Ram 6.7

[SweetLou]

I am servicing my truck by replacing the belt at 80K, but also want to replace the idler pulley and the tensioner in my 2013 6.7 Cummins Ram. The tensioner choices are Cummins part for $125, Or a Gates for $80. Which would you go with, both probably made in China. Cummins maybe in Mexico.

[Cummins12V98]

WooHoo

[SweetLou]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
" but the telling story was the tensioner pully. It was a Dayco. Now I know that is not an OEM part which tells me that it had been changed out early. I bought the truck with 36K on it, so at somepoint it was replaced."



On Page one I mentioned this "Cummins tensioner is made by Dayco. Looked at the part on Geno's Garage."
so the one you just removed was OE, look on the back side it has a CUMMINS #.

Now this makes sense. It is just like your picture. I will take a closer look

[ScottG]

Keep in mind that even though the part from Cummins may say Dayco on it, that doesn't mean the Dayco you buy from Orielly's is the exact same part. Parts are often built to different specs or "screened" for certain parameters for co's like Cummins, Ford (one I know of for sure), etc.

[time2roll]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I was wondering how you came up with changing the idler at 200k?

Second belt would be fine. I don't think the tensioner is a major fail point.
Otherwise are you replacing the alternator and water pump too in case the bearing or seal is about to go?
Again I would wait 200k on these items before a preemptive replacement.

Does the book call for tensioner and belt replacement at the same time?

[mapguy]

Tensioners built by Continental, Dayco, and Gates typically have marking for proper range of travel on the tensioner. Usually a couple lines without marking. If you can see this indicator -it helps determine if the belt has stretched to much. An overstretched belt or idler pully bearing are the greatest risk for failure.

Problem is that usually on modern automotive/light truck engines you can't get a clear view of the indicator on the tensioner......

[Cummins12V98]

What brand parts did you buy and from who?

[Cummins12V98]

" but the telling story was the tensioner pully. It was a Dayco. Now I know that is not an OEM part which tells me that it had been changed out early. I bought the truck with 36K on it, so at somepoint it was replaced."



On Page one I mentioned this "Cummins tensioner is made by Dayco. Looked at the part on Geno's Garage."
so the one you just removed was OE, look on the back side it has a CUMMINS #.

[blt2ski]

Sometimes, g no doing with gut is best choice

Marty

[SweetLou]

My update so far. My buddy and I started on the beast last night after work. Removed things in the way for belt and pully replacement. I bought this truck used from the dealer back in 2016. The belt had more life on it for sure, but the telling story was the tensioner pully. It was a Dayco. Now I know that is not an OEM part which tells me that it had been changed out early. I bought the truck with 36K on it, so at somepoint it was replaced. I am trying to determin why and I thought about recalls but nothing comes to mind. The water pump needed to be replaced through Dodge for the recall but I was the owner at that point and no pully or belt was replaced. In any case, the new pully which is made in Canada, is really a well designed and HD part, nowhere near like the Dayco. I am very pleased that I am replacing everything now for sure. We don't have the Idler pully off yet but the new part is HD as well from Canada.

[Cummins12V98]

SweetLou wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Grit you have no idea of my intent. The OP sure didn’t have an issue with what I said. He replied and I also mentioned I have replaced things when I didn’t have to also.

Maybe I didn’t need to use the word “HE!!” but I meant no harm.

I just wanted him to know how mine lasted.

None taken! I appreciate all comments. I agreed with Grit on his examples of why some do what they do. Your post made me think I might be doing something way to early, however I have had an issue before with those parts, and I felt like helping out the economy 🙂

Bottom line do what works for YOU with all the info you have at hand.

I am on the other end of the Valley from you in the Winters North of Palm Springs, looks like another day in paradise!

[SweetLou]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Grit you have no idea of my intent. The OP sure didn’t have an issue with what I said. He replied and I also mentioned I have replaced things when I didn’t have to also.

Maybe I didn’t need to use the word “HE!!” but I meant no harm.

I just wanted him to know how mine lasted.

None taken! I appreciate all comments. I agreed with Grit on his examples of why some do what they do. Your post made me think I might be doing something way to early, however I have had an issue before with those parts, and I felt like helping out the economy 🙂

[SweetLou]

Grit dog wrote:
^ As usual, what he said.
Generally this is a concept or skill or knowledge that only people who are very familiar with machinery and managing machinery and its "cost" understand.
I would not have this "knowledge" had I had a different career path and interests. Guaranteed.
However one bad experience can gain a person a quick boost of knowledge or opinion at least on how things work. Example swetlou and the duramax pulley guy in previous posts.
I have the fortune or misfortune of, for the last 30 years, running, managing, repairing and being exposed to the operational costs of 1000s of pieces of different equipment and vehicles. My internal micro processor, lol, can sort out that X model of X vehicle had issues with a certain thing. Or never had to do X to any piece of equipment used in a certain manner.
Some of that knowledge give me more confidence in a machine or part and some makes me more wary.
And for me, and I'm sure others, the peace of mind that a potential issue has been handled prior to heading out on the road is also valuable, if you're of that mindset.

I recall all the "work" I did to the truck prior to moving to AK. Truck had 120k on it. Was going to be pulling rough duty in the trip up there and my "list" was long. Didn't include pullies though. Checked them and they were smooth. Partly becasue I didn't want any issues to side track the trip up and partly becasue I wanted to minimize shop time during our limited time to experience AK.

Made it to AK and around, no problem.
In retrospect, couple things on the "list" that I didn't do, I still haven't 50k miles later and no issues.
One big thing I didn't expect at all presented itself later on. The clutch.
And another couple things that were on the list happened in that timeframe while we were up there. Rear u joint and steering pump.

Point is, denegrating posts like 12Vs insinuating that since he has 400k on a set of pullies that the OP is stupid for changing them, just show his opinion is batting out of its league with respect to experience.

OP here, I couldn't have said it any better

[Cummins12V98]

Grit you have no idea of my intent. The OP sure didn’t have an issue with what I said. He replied and I also mentioned I have replaced things when I didn’t have to also.

Maybe I didn’t need to use the word “HE!!” but I meant no harm.

I just wanted him to know how mine lasted.

[Cummins12V98]

time2roll wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Wait for 100k unless the belt shows cracking or chunks missing.
Do the pully at 200k unless the bearing is rough or excessive play.

Does the manual actually recommend 80k replacement?

Curious, what do you base this advice on?

I will change the belt at 100K for sure.

I suggest 100k unless the book is different.
What do you recommend for the OP and based on what?

I was wondering how you came up with changing the idler at 200k?