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Is there an easy way to align the front of the camper?

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
I've had my TC for a few months now and am getting better with load times. I found that if I get it close at the back, I can center it perfectly by having someone push on the side in the last inch of lowering it. An even easier way is to use 2 air bags (the type used on car doors for lock outs) between the TC side and the rail.

The part I'm still struggling with is nailing the front spacing (side to side). I can get within a couple inches, but it seems like there should be some method to adjust that last little bit. Anyone have recommendations?
60 REPLIES 60

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
Since the truck rotates (almost) around the middle of the rear axle, it seems like if the axle is centered left/right with the centerline of the camper a sharp turn of the wheel should fix the alignment. It might take going forward, reverse turn, backwards to stay on the centerline. So far, my experience has been that this will correct some alignment issues, but the bed is so long and clearance on the sides tight that I have to pull most of the way out to even try this.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
bkenobi wrote:
Getting to that position is the question. I know how to back straight up. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Very seldom I have long driveway where I can line up several feet before the camper, but the main idea is first to get rear axle between the jacks as with 1" clearance you don't have much play and any pad slope can shave good part of it.
So I lower my main right mirror down as the fish-eye mirror is not giving me good view. Once I see my fenders between the jacks, than I raise the mirror and observe the mentioned visual gaps.
The trick is to line it up before you drive farther under the camper or your rear will go on the side. When I start with bigger angle, I have to back up a foot, go forward a foot to straight front wheels and back up again.

sljohnson1938
Explorer
Explorer
check out youtube - 'truck camper laser alignment' video

not sure if this would help you.
1999 Dodge 3500 CTD dually
Ham radio - WU4S

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
languiduck wrote:
It has always been interesting to me how this task of backing under the camper is very stressful for some folks, and that this simple method escapes them. Just back up so you have the same distance between the truck and the jacks showing in the mirrors. Simple. If you do this, you don't need any kind of centering device or laser beams, or a helper. I don't believe I've had to readjust more than 2 or 3 times in my life. It's just a load you're placing in the bed of your truck, nothing more, nothing less.


Just yesterday I spend at least 5 minutes waiting for gas pump when the guy at pump took very long time to process his card.
It was at Costco, where you have to use 2 cards, but still it is not rocket science.
So what is easy for some, can be overwhelming task for other.
I have a friend who always ask me to back up his boat on the ramp... not a bad driver otherwise.
With camper it took me some time to figure out what point to observe. I was looking on sides and my final check was measuring how the lower window gutter sticks outside the bed rails.
Perfect is 2 fingers on each side, but before making the guides and figuring out the points, I could be 2" off.

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
Getting to that position is the question. I know how to back straight up. ๐Ÿ˜‰

languiduck
Explorer
Explorer
It has always been interesting to me how this task of backing under the camper is very stressful for some folks, and that this simple method escapes them. Just back up so you have the same distance between the truck and the jacks showing in the mirrors. Simple. If you do this, you don't need any kind of centering device or laser beams, or a helper. I don't believe I've had to readjust more than 2 or 3 times in my life. It's just a load you're placing in the bed of your truck, nothing more, nothing less.

Kayteg1 wrote:
Here it is how it works for me.
I have guides on truck bed (also 2" shim, that you might not need)

Click For Full-Size Image.
Here is close on front


Click For Full-Size Image.

and here is rear


Click For Full-Size Image.

Now for reference how to back the truck, here is moment when I had rear wheels going between camper front jacks. In the mirrors you see the visual gaps between front jacks and rear wings is different - meaning truck is not lined up with camper.


Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.

Here it is after lining up, where both gaps in the mirrors look the same.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Click For Full-Size Image.
That will get your camper within 1" of perfection. The rest will be done with guides and in drastic situation I can move the camper almost 1" by lowering one side.
Yes you can flex the camper on jack at least 1" if not 2"
Stick house will flex too if you push it with bulldozer.
2006 F250
Palomino Bronco 800

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
SidecarFlip wrote:
Actually, the best (and least stressful for you method) is top let your wife back under the camper. That way, you can blame the carnage on her. Convenient and works every time...lol

All wisdom say that the above method is the best for getting quick divorce?

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
Actually, the best (and least stressful for you method) is top let your wife back under the camper. That way, you can blame the carnage on her. Convenient and works every time...lol
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here it is how it works for me.
I have guides on truck bed (also 2" shim, that you might not need)

Click For Full-Size Image.
Here is close on front


Click For Full-Size Image.

and here is rear


Click For Full-Size Image.

Now for reference how to back the truck, here is moment when I had rear wheels going between camper front jacks. In the mirrors you see the visual gaps between front jacks and rear wings is different - meaning truck is not lined up with camper.


Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.

Here it is after lining up, where both gaps in the mirrors look the same.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Click For Full-Size Image.
That will get your camper within 1" of perfection. The rest will be done with guides and in drastic situation I can move the camper almost 1" by lowering one side.
Yes you can flex the camper on jack at least 1" if not 2"
Stick house will flex too if you push it with bulldozer.

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
The red laser works ok in the center, but the periphery is a lot dimmer. The issue with that is, dim red laser light can't outdo the break lights. I may look around to see if I can find a green laser to see if it's visible with break lights.

I mocked up the setup with the laser level and 3 tape strips. I had no issue lining up the center and with a slight correction believe I had it nailed. I didn't pull the tailgate to trial load. It's WAY too windy today to want to mess with raising the TC today. I'll probably try using it next time I load and have the boss make sure I don't mash anything.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
bkenobi wrote:
The slit in the back window would work just fine if you could make sure the center rear view mirror was exactly in line. If that's the case, it will create a vertical reference plane. If you had a point on the leading edge of the cab over, that would also be a low tech version of the laser method. I like that approach cause it can't run out of batteries.


I measured my rear view mirror and it's dead nutz in the center of the windahield so everything is in line. I use the 'day/night' switch on the mirror as a center reference.

I may add a red line on the front of the cab over too. Never thought about that. Backing in with the crew cab, I can see the nose of the camper for quite some time before it vanishes..

First time I backed under the Palomino I used the window in the camper and almost hit the camper until I realized the window is offset about 8" to the passengers side of the camper.....ooops.

Always worked with the Lance. That window was centered.

You can be straight and be crooked at the same time and not much steering wheel movement swings the tail end of the truck box quite a lot.

I don't want to push on mine or rub it getting under it. I have to lift it about as high as the jacks will go to clear my bed and it's, shall we say, wobbly. Always a tense situation. I want to get under it and down asap.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
Joeshmoe...that's what the dealer said. I only have 3/4" gap combined though. Also, since the rail is wider at the front, I can get the back very close, but the front is off by up to 2". I suspect if the bed was the same width front and back, I'd have no issue.

work2much
Explorer
Explorer
joeshmoe wrote:
Am I missing something, or is it not possible to gauge the spacing between the bed and camper jack?


You can be centered on the jacks and still be backing up crooked to the camper. At least that's my experience.
2022 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD DRW Crew 4x4 Aisin 4:10 Air ride.

2020 Grand Design Solitude 2930RL 2520 watts solar. 600ah lithium. Magnum 4000 watt inverter.

joeshmoe
Explorer
Explorer
Yes. Like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vi1g6LFpRaI
2014 Northwood Wolf Creek 850
2005 Ford F350 SRW SuperCab/LongBed 6.0 Powerstroke
QuickTrick's Towing Tune
Torklift Tie Downs/Fastguns/Upper/Lower Stableloads
Rancho 9000's

bkenobi
Explorer
Explorer
If you mean between the side of the bed (outside) and the jacks, I suppose that would be an option. I thought about getting it loaded perfectly and then painting a line on the ground to line up on (lined up with outer tire wall). I saw some problems with that so am looking other paths.

The dealership just said to watch over my left shoulder along B-post to back corner of bed. Watch the gap and make sure it's "right" as you back in. For them, it just has to be good enough to move from on lot to another (3 dealer locations). I don't think they worry about it much as long as it doesn't rub.