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Jacking For Tire Change

Bluedog
Explorer
Explorer
Seems there is a lot of controversy over where to place a jack on a 2-axle travel trailer to change a single tire or service wheel bearings. Experts say under the U-bolt plate is not OK because of the danger of bending the axle. Question is how can the axle get bent when you are lifting the suspension system at the U-bolt location which is built to handle it. Same as driving the single wheel up on a 2 inch board. Some experts say to place the jack under the frame behind the wheel which appears to me to invite damage to the frame more so than the axle method. Also, this way the trailer has to be lifted quite high for the springs to extend and lift the tire off the ground. Under the U-bolt only requires a few inches to get the tire up.

Please enlighten me!
61 REPLIES 61

B-n-B
Explorer III
Explorer III
time2roll wrote:
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Ramp/"trailer aid" looks to be a good solution.

I would still carry Powerbuilt 3 Ton, Bottle Jack and Jack Stands All-in-1

Will 11" get under the axle with a flat tire?


This exact jack would not get under a flat tire on my trailer, at least not under the spring perch. I carry a small floor jack with a 1x6 if needed.
2019 Chevy 3500HD LTZ DRW
2021 Lance 975

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lwiddis wrote:
"Ramp under other tire might work, but will need to be pretty steep with some trailers. Now the most risky time is when you get wheel off, discover you need up just little more to get the other on..."

Horror stories that I have never experienced or seen. It works every time and doesn't need to be that steep.


Many trailer suspensions have a lot of travel. If the ramp is not steep or tall enough the flat will start up ramp before it is high enough to get tire on.
The risk I'm referring to is using a jack. If the vehicle is going to fall it is unlikely to do it when just setting on the jack. Going down maybe, but up is much more likely. Many jacks carried to lift trailer must be pumped from under the trailer. If you don't notice the slip or lean when it starts, the trailer falls, it will fill your shorts but if there was room when started lifting, there will be room when stops bouncing. BUT if you have taken the wheel off that room ain't there.
If you start with the flat on a block, with axle at normal height it takes little lift to get off, and you know you won't need to jack up without tire on.

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Seems there is a lot of controversy over where to place a jack on a 2-axle travel trailer to change a single tire or service wheel bearings.

All rv forums are like that mainly because many rv owners are pulling their first trailer or haven't been introduced to a easier or safer way to change a flat tire.

Then you have some that may make a living by jacking trailers/vehicle for some type of R&R or maintenance daily.

Then other who may have made a living pulling all type of trailers with years of jacking a stupid trailer that gave the driver some thing to do and caught a flat tire.

I have a old 2 speed 4500 lb scissor jack with a 56" handle that I started with in the late '60s. It has a 4" wide X 6" long saddle that works great under the axle tube next to the U bolts. It cranks down to maybe 4" tall and my go to all purpose jack around the place.

Later in the early '70s the company I sub'd with came out with 12 ton stubby hyd jacks. The jack came with a round axle adapter that cradles 1750 lb up to 12000 lb axle tubes.

Slide either jack under the end of the axle next to the U bolt and raise one end of the axle high enough to get the spare back on the wheel. Both have a 10" X 10" wide base for soft side of the road conditions.

One problem lifting the whole side of the trailer with the suspension hanging or let one axle hang is side links can flip causing several problems. BTDT and not fun on the side of the road getting the link to flip back in the right position.

Everyone has their way of raising the trailer to change a flat or R&R. There is no correct way as trailers (rv and non RV) vary in weight from 2000 lbs up to 25000 lbs. Make a different in what works.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
Grit dog wrote:
klutchdust wrote:

Trailer axles are not solid, they are pipe. Notice the wiring that travels through some applications. Schedule 80 is common.


I was referring to the accepted terminology of "solid axle" where both wheels are rigidly connected to each other.
Just for clarity, as I thought that was a commonly used term. Has nothing to do with whether the axle is tubular or not.:S


In the field of heavy mechanics and machinery the term solid axle and straight axle mean different things. To the layman saying "solid axle" it shows me they know not what they speak of. Trailer axles are straight axles. Then you get into the torsion axles. :S

When you read comments on forums you can figure out quickly who has actually wrenched on a vehicle and who changed a tire a few times.
If lifting a trailer to change a tire will somehow magically twist or torque the frame then explain how using the leveling jacks at a campsite or driving onto those plastic wedges or boards and having it sit there a week doesn't damage anything.
LOL. We have chained axles up and driven safely many miles without damage to anything. knowing what you are doing makes the difference.

Quote - "
Glad my kids won't be asking how to change a tire when they get older"

My 2 daughters were NOT allowed to drive until they :
1-could pay for the car, fuel, insurance
2- show me they could change a tire alone
Me-Her-the kids
2020 Ford F350 SD 6.7
2020 Redwood 3991RD Garnet

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Fisherman wrote:
I look at it this way, if the trailer was meant to be rolled up on a lazy trailer aide, then why did they put 2 axles on it with 2 tires? To support the weight, period. Now you're going to shift all that weight to one tire with the suspension completely twisted to achieve that. Don't be lazy, use the appropriate jack.


I see no issue with using a jack at the spring perch but...

Using a ramp on one side is not going to overload the axle/tire. The design loading is based on dynamic loading not static.

A tire hitting a pothole at 65mph is drastically more force applied vs slowly pulling up on one tire.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Esacnj
Explorer
Explorer
I have owned travel trailers and 5th wheel. 2 different manufacturers and both say jack to the frame either in front of forward wheel or behind rear wheel within couple/few of inches to the wheel. Never to axles or suspension or springs/u bolts.
Esacnj

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
BB_TX wrote:
Between the U bolts is not going to bend an axle. People have been doing that for ages and I don’t remember anyone ever saying they bent their axle. Gets the tire off the ground with least amount of lift. If anyone thinks otherwise please tell me the physics of how that will bend the axle.

They make special “cradles” to fit bottle jacks for that purpose if you want extra support. I never used one.

I would be more concerned about using a ramp putting double the normal weight on the other one tire, wheel, and axle.


I wouldn't have the least worry about either method....
It's about necessity or convenience.
Side of the road flat tire, if I have enough lumber or rocks to ramp up and change a tire, that may be the most efficient.
Repair or service work in a controlled environment, or if nothing available to ramp up for a quick tire change, then jacking and/or jack stands under axle and/or frame may be the best option.

Glad my kids won't be asking how to change a tire when they get older.....
That's like one of the top 5 things that men should know how to do...right behind, spitting, farmer blow their nose, change the oil in the car and pick out a hot chick at 100 yds out!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
klutchdust wrote:

Trailer axles are not solid, they are pipe. Notice the wiring that travels through some applications. Schedule 80 is common.


I was referring to the accepted terminology of "solid axle" where both wheels are rigidly connected to each other.
Just for clarity, as I thought that was a commonly used term. Has nothing to do with whether the axle is tubular or not.:S
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
"Ramp under other tire might work, but will need to be pretty steep with some trailers. Now the most risky time is when you get wheel off, discover you need up just little more to get the other on..."

Horror stories that I have never experienced or seen. It works every time and doesn't need to be that steep.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Ramp/"trailer aid" looks to be a good solution.

I would still carry Powerbuilt 3 Ton, Bottle Jack and Jack Stands All-in-1

Will 11" get under the axle with a flat tire?

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
Between the U bolts is not going to bend an axle. People have been doing that for ages and I don’t remember anyone ever saying they bent their axle. Gets the tire off the ground with least amount of lift. If anyone thinks otherwise please tell me the physics of how that will bend the axle.

They make special “cradles” to fit bottle jacks for that purpose if you want extra support. I never used one.

I would be more concerned about using a ramp putting double the normal weight on the other one tire, wheel, and axle.

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
Grit dog wrote:
Literally one the most universally competent places to jack up about any solid axle is under the spring perches or u bolts.
There is nothing special about any of the probably 100 different trailers that I’ve tossed a jack under for one reason or another, that I’ve seen.
In general, if you support it there or under the frame (within reason) and something gets damaged, it wasn’t going to last anyway.
As always common sense applies. If you have a 3000lb buggy sitting over the axles of a toyhauler and you jack up the back corner of the frame, or something like that, you may tweak something.


Trailer axles are not solid, they are pipe. Notice the wiring that travels through some applications. Schedule 80 is common.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Ramp/"trailer aid" looks to be a good solution.

I would still carry Powerbuilt 3 Ton, Bottle Jack and Jack Stands All-in-1

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
wanderingbob wrote:
With a "trailer aide ' type device you can have the flat off the ground in the the time it takes to place 'trailer aide " at the tire and pull forwards or backwards . Back 15 years or so before the Goodyear trailer tire recall my wife and I changed several flats each week during our delivery schedule . Are best all time record was eight minutes between blow out and back on the road . NEVER JACK !


Oh... now I understand. Because rolling up a ramp with the good wheel is a quick method, it makes other methods unacceptable...
Totally makes sense :S
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold