cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Low point drain line caps nightmare

Lemonhead78
Explorer
Explorer
So I had to pay someone in October to winterize my camper because my health was really bad. My trailer has 5 drain lines underneath. Some are labeled and some are not. On one side of camper near the hot water tank it has 2 underneath it and says low drain. Their side by side ( touching ) . To the left of that is one labeled fresh tank drain. The guy who winterized left all 3 caps off and put them in the hot water tank access door area. One of the 3 was missing a rubber gasket. I checked Home Depot, a plumbing supply store and even the service department where I bought the trailer. Nobody has this size gasket. They said they will contact forest river and call me back. They haven’t called yet . So here’s my questions please try and help.

The cap is this size and looks similar to this. I can’t see the gasket inside so I’m not sure if it’s the right one or even if it has one. It’s cheap so I tried . You think this is what I need ? Flair-It 16860 Plastic Cap Fitting, 0.5" Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H602C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Tb5QCb78BXCPB

Second question: on the opposite side of trailer theirs 2 more lines . These are not labeled and he left the caps on these lines. Is their an explanation for why these caps are left on and the others I described above were left off. ? I need some education if you guys don’t mind sparing the time. It’s a surveyor 2016 by forest river
21 REPLIES 21

OleManOleCan
Explorer
Explorer
gmckenzie wrote:
ZINGERLITE wrote:
I went and bought plastic valves from the plumbing section at lowes and screwed them onto the 3/4" fittings where the caps go. No more need for caps. Just turn the valves.


I did the same with mine as well as the fresh water tank drain. Much easier to deal with.


I've done three campers with 3/4" valves. Works for me.
Lowes and Farm Town have lots of things that might not be mentioned
as for a camper, but they work very well.

sgfrye
Explorer
Explorer
bob213 wrote:
Try amazon: ASIN: B00IRUKIO8 or do as suggested and buy pex valves and be done with it.

I bought these from Zoro tools.com


Or these from Amazon
valve


these do work great... easy peasy

troubledwaters
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just put some teflon tape on the threads and put the caps on as tight as you can without tools. The worse that will happen is they will drip a little. Chances are they will be fine.

bob213
Explorer
Explorer
racer4 wrote:
Is this the right size and type of valve?

1/2" PEX x FNPT Polymer Ball Valve Inline

I want to order valves to replace the caps on my low point drain lines.


That's what I have.
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand

Atlee
Explorer II
Explorer II
Interesting that you have caps on the end of your low point drains. On my Jayco J Flight 23RB, the two low point drains have nothing on the ends. They just hang down, through the Cloroplast belly cover. The drain valves for the two drain lines are inside the trailer.

I also have two fresh water drain lines. Each of these has a pet **** style valve at the end of the drains.
Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
I feel your pain.

On my TT it had "plugs" that screwed into a part that was permanently mounted on the outside of the low point drains. They had rubber cone shaped washers in them that no one carried in stock. I rigged up something for years. Then last year I snapped off one of the parts that was on the outside of the line.

There was no hope of repair after that.

I got through the season by putting a lot of Teflon tape and a rubber o-ring on a standard bolt and forcefully turning it up into the line. Surprisingly, that worked. If it doesn't work again this year I don't know what I will do. It is some weird size that standard plumbing stores don't have.

Someone said it was Quest Tubing. Whatever that is. No one around here has ever heard of it.

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Lemonhead78 wrote:

So what am I suppose to do. I checked hardware stores and the rv parts department where I bought trailer it and no one can help. I’m getting depressed over this. I called forest river and that was a joke.


At this point I would put some water in the system and pressurize it and see what happens. If water comes out then look for a valve inside the trailer. On mine the valves spin, but in actuality I have to press them down until they snap into the housing to turn them off.

If it still leaky put the caps on with one missing gasket and see what happens under pressure. It's possible they all seal and you're back in business.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
ZINGERLITE wrote:
I went and bought plastic valves from the plumbing section at lowes and screwed them onto the 3/4" fittings where the caps go. No more need for caps. Just turn the valves.


almost the same here. But I used quarter turn metal ball valves. much easier to turn than the plastic valves.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
Lemonhead78 wrote:
mobeewan wrote:
If the cap is a Flair-it cap and looks like the one in the link, there is no gasket. Those caps are used to cap Flair-it fitting where the PEX tubing has been removed. They seat against the Barb the PEX normally slips over before tightening the nut used to hold the PEX to the fitting. They will hold pressure up to the rating of the fitting, valve or PEX tubing without a gasket.

I have a couple I keep on hand in case I have a plumbing problem and have to disconnect a piece of PEX until I would have time to make a repair. I used one once to temporarily cap a tee I added where I was adding a new PEX line where I was installing a captive air tank. I still needed to use the trailers fresh water system before I had time to finish the tank install.


So what am I suppose to do. I checked hardware stores and the rv parts department where I bought trailer it and no one can help. I’m getting depressed over this. I called forest river and that was a joke.


Okay my understanding is that you have all three caps, but you believe the one cap is missing a gasket. if the one cap matches the picture that you found online no gasket is needed he just needs to be threaded back on. If there is a valve above where the cap was screwed on then you're fine as long as the valve is closed. You do not need to put the cap back on.

My freshwater tank drain has a Flair-it male pipe thread x PEX connector screwed into the tank. Then there is a short piece of PEX, then a Flair-it valve. I I think it might have came with a cap on the end of the valve. The valve doesn't need one and I didn't feel like crawling under the trailer just to remove the cap on a valve, so I left it off and the cap did not have or need a gasket just like the one in the link you posted.

If you have PEX tubing coming off the fresh water tank drain with no valves you will need to screw the cap back on. Otherwise the tank will drain through that fitting.

You say you have the cap and don't know if it needs a gasket. Can you take a couple pictures of the cap and post them other than just saying will it looks like this one and it looks like the gasket is missing.

There are so many different ways low point drains and tank drains can be configured. With valves and caps, with valves and without caps. With caps only, with valves inside the trailer at the floor that have open end tubing going through the floor to the underside of the trailer, etc, etc.

Can you get someone to crawl under the trailer and take a photograph of the freshwater tank drain and the 2 low point drains to see what the fittings on the end of the lines look like. There has to be a fitting or a valve because the cap was removed from something.

racer4
Explorer
Explorer
Is this the right size and type of valve?

1/2" PEX x FNPT Polymer Ball Valve Inline

I want to order valves to replace the caps on my low point drain lines.
Chris and Pat
2023 Ram 3500 Limited, Cummins, Aisin, dually, Auto Flex Rear Air Ride Suspension
2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2024 Winnebago Minnie 2327TB

sgfrye
Explorer
Explorer
bob213 wrote:
Try amazon: ASIN: B00IRUKIO8 or do as suggested and buy pex valves and be done with it.

I bought these from Zoro tools.com


Or these from Amazon
valve



x2

i removed the plastic caps, tossed them in trash and installed brass ball valves.

mooky_stinks
Explorer
Explorer
Are you sure the gasket isn't still on one of the lines? When I take mine off, one gasket always stays on one of the lines.
2020 F150 XL Screw 4x4 6.5”box
3.5 ecoboost Max tow HDPP
7850 GVW. 4800 RAWR
2565 payload

2020 Cougar 29RKS 5th wheel

bob213
Explorer
Explorer
Try amazon: ASIN: B00IRUKIO8 or do as suggested and buy pex valves and be done with it.

I bought these from Zoro tools.com


Or these from Amazon
valve
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand

Lemonhead78
Explorer
Explorer
Lantley wrote:
THe lines that were not cap are likely the vent and drain line for your fresh water tank. THey do not need any caps!


They’re capped when camper is in. Use. They were removed for winter and that’s when gasket / seal was lost .