cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Mounted bubble level vs. 2' level

RAllison
Explorer
Explorer
You would think they would put levels on these campers at the factory. Just curious what most people use.My Outback TT has a rounded nose kind of hard to mount a level. Don't know if I want to put one on the front even if I could.Fronts to pretty, I couldn't hide it.
23 REPLIES 23

greende
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have used a 2 foot carpenter's level for the past 40 years. I guess it's all what you're used to.
2011 Chevy 3500 HD LTZ Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Box DRW
B&W Turnover Ball with Companion

2012 Keystone Cougar 293 SAB 5er

USAF 1968 - 1972 Viet Nam '71 - '72

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
BizmarksMom wrote:
I leveled the trailer with a carpenter's level when I first bought it - focusing on the fridge because that's most sensitive appliance. I attached a big bubble level where I can see it in my mirrors. Attached another one on the side for front to back leveling. And that was the end of my fiddling. I'm usually solo, so I have to be able to do this without a spotter.


That's what I did with a trailer. I leveled the TT nice and good for the fridge with a carpenter's level. Then I placed a big bubble level on the front of the TT so that I could see it while backing up. I had to jimmy up the bubble level so it showed level when the fridge was level (they were not the same).

With my class C, I leveled it to the fridge with the carpenter's level and then placed a bubble level inside the cab where I can easily see it as I back-up. Again, I had to jimmy up the bubble level so it reads level when the fridge is level.

To me, this is the easiest because I don't have to keep getting in and out of the vehicle to check. I simply back-in to where I want to be parked, check the bubble level, pull up about a foot, get out and place the necessary blocks down and then get in and back onto the blocks. Done. One person, one hop out of the vehicle, and I'm good to go.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
I mounted the smal bubble levels on the left front corner. These are the ones that tell you how many inches it's off. They have worked great. Next time I will probably mount them inside the front storage compartment just to keep from putting a screw into the outside of the trailer.

It would be nice to have them from the factory, but they would probably just end up being off anyway!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

BizmarksMom
Explorer
Explorer
I leveled the trailer with a carpenter's level when I first bought it - focusing on the fridge because that's most sensitive appliance. I attached a big bubble level where I can see it in my mirrors. Attached another one on the side for front to back leveling. And that was the end of my fiddling. I'm usually solo, so I have to be able to do this without a spotter.
2019 F350 towing a Nash 22H

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
RAllison,

Here's the second way I attempt to level the camper. This works VERY well, but does require a little set up. I talked about this on another thread just a couple days ago, so decided to go out and get some photos this morning.

Like you, I have an Outback with the curved nose-cone. Attaching a bubble on the front of it to see out the rear window of the tow vehicle probably would not work very well. The bubble needs to be straight up and down. On the Outback, you are right, the curved front makes an awkward place to mount it.

Here's an alternative. Actually, this idea with the level on the door makes hitting that level spot pretty easy.

First, I put a piece of tape in the middle of my camper nose. I like using white electrical tape, but I didn't have any so had to use black. I want to replace this later (probably today). The Outback front cap has a center line, so it's very easy to get this straight. The center line IS center--- up and down.



The next step is to set up a "Plumb line" in the back of my truck. If you don't have a truck shell, you can do the same using your back window of the truck. I used a Command Hook and simply stuck it to the roof of the truck shell.

I then used a dow rod, Mine is square, and put a hook on the end, and simply hang it:



From the outside of the truck, it looks like this:





From the inside of the cab it look like this:



Now, all you have to do is position the camper so the dow rod and the line on the camper are exactly parallel. When they are parallel, the camper is 100% perfectly level (left to right). Unhitch, and then level front to back. I use a small stick on level on the tongue jack.

As you can see, the trailer is not 100% perfectly level. It's off just a little. To level, I'd need to add a board under drivers side.

This actually works very, very well. Easy, costs almost nothing, and works every time.

GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Explorer II
One level mounted that can be seen from driver's mirror. Another on the side for fore and aft. Both sealed and screwed on after leveling with 4' level, focusing on the fridge. With homemade Andersen type levelers, getting the side to side set right is fairly simple and quick. Unhitch, use the electric jack, put down the stabilizers, go get a beer.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
I've been looking for a wireless remote level system.

We just got Anderson Levelers, so would like to know from the driver's seat of our TV where the level point is.

Then from the tongue while working the jack.

In regards to the option posted earlier, it looks interesting with some reservations.

1. Not sure Bluetooth would have the range and strength through the TT and the metal body of the Excursion.

2. Reviews claim only about 2 months battery life and no on/off switch.

3. Price is a bit steep at $130

If anyone has any other suggestions? Otherwise, may build one.

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
I leveled mine with the bubble on the tongue jack. Put a 2' level on the floor and it was close enough. Now I just use the bubble. Sink drains and the fridge doesn't lock up. Good enough for me!
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

korbe
Explorer
Explorer
Since many points on a rig can have different degrees of level, I first used multiple locations, the frame, fridg, floor, bumper and king pin, and found a good result. After leveling, I used my 1-foot long torpedo level and found an easy location that also showed level ( the kitchen counter).

So now when I put my level on the counter, I use it to tell me how much I need to raise either side. Since the level is one foot long, and with my rig being close to 8 feet wide, when I raise one end of the level to center the bubble, the distance up from the counter tells me how much to raise one side. If it's up 1/8 inch, that tells me to raise that side 1inch (8' x 1/8").

So I only measure once, and not just guessing at how much blocking to put under the tires. Works for me.
.

Mortimer_Brewst
Explorer II
Explorer II
I used a 4 foot level on the floor once to get my trailer perfectly level and then stuck these on the trailer. Using a graduated level makes leveling the trailer easy. If the bubble is one mark off from center, then the low side needs to be raised 1 inch, 2 marks - 2 inches, etc. I use Lynx Leveling Blocks which are each 1 inch thick, so the number of marks the bubble is off from center is the same as the number of blocks needed.
If ethics are poor at the top, that behavior is copied down through the organization - Robert Noyce

2018 Chevy Silverado 3500 SRW Duramax
2019 Coachmen Chaparral 298RLS

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
Here's the ultimate weapon: LevelMatePRO

$139.99 on Amazon

Review of LevelMatePRO

Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
I just use a little $2 round bubble level on the tongue of the trailer and that works just fine for me... Been using it for over 14 years now and I can tell both side to side and front to back level at the same time.

I actually like to level my rig just a tad higher up front so if it does rain, it all drips off the back and also with the front queen bed, with our heads up front, it's just nice to have that slight higher up front..

But that's just what works for me.. ๐Ÿ™‚ YMMV.. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
On my TT, it depend on what you want level. The floor, door, frame, table and slide are all slightly different from each other.

We have found that the most important level point for us, is our stove and sink which are part of our slide. A longer level is most accurate but the little Stick-um levels are closed enough for our needs.

It is like the stabilizer jacks, you mess with them and other gizmos until you reach a point you can live with.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

aftermath
Explorer II
Explorer II
RAllison wrote:
Great idea Dutchmansport. I still have a rotary dial cell phone so the app won't work.


This is funny! I wonder how many caught the humor here. Thanks for my laugh of the day.
2017 Toyota Tundra, Double Cab, 5.7L V8
2006 Airstream 25 FB SE
Equalizer Hitch