One tire looks overloaded??

[Plumber101010]

2010 Jayco Eagle 318RLS. 2015 Chevy 3500 Crew. 6900 pds 8000 loaded. Hit the road for full timing. Feeling like I way overloaded and kind of knew that anyway. Wasn't pulling or let's just say didn't "feel right." So along the way, I dump tons of weight. I think I have it where it needs to be now. Still, driver side rear tire is always flatter than the rest of them. Goodyear Marathons 205/75/15.

When I was making a u turn in a cul-de-sac so that I could get a really good view, that tire literally looked like it was coming out from under the rim street side. Almost as if that one tire was taking all of the weight and the front one was not. But they are so close to each other I couldn't see what that is possible.

Even from the day I purchased it, all four tires always looked like they were mushrooms underneath. After reading the weights, I don't see why they would have ever put those tires on there, as a fully loaded trailer weighs more than the load capacity of all four tires.

Hours of research yielded the fact that I do not have LT tire options. So I am more or less stuck with ST tires for my set up which Bums me out. I personally think the tires just don't have the backbone for this fully loaded trailer. Still, why that one tire appears to be taken all the way I am clueless.

Research also said Maxxis tires, but their load rating doesn't seem any better than what I have. I really want a D load tire, and again, maxxis doesn't make a load D, only in a 215. The tires that do offer a load D all have bad ratings. I am really sad that I can't seem to find a higher load rated tire for my trailer, I have given up the ghost on my search.

Feeling like something isn't right with that tire anyway. Not that all the other tires look that great at 50 PSI in them, but this one is worse looking. Other clues that something is amiss, when the slide is in, one side has a gap that I can slide my fingers under towards front and the other side is flat at rear. Further, on the front by the hitch on the V,
one side is level but the other side full bubble. Almost as if one side of the frame is off?

Heading to North Carolina mountains tomorrow, snow and ice and steep grades. Really worried that something is not right.

[Plumber101010]

Tires did the trick!!! Rides MUCH better and handles better. Little too much bouncy bounce but not
On smooth highway just bumpy which seems normal from what I just read

[Plumber101010]

"And a Wrangler HT in a LT215/75-15 D (65 psi) at 2090 lbs capacity. This tire is close to the same diameter as your current tires."

Thank you thank you thank you. I decided to get the wrangler 215's. You made life easy for me. Not in stock but they are ordering them. I feel so much better now I am getting rid of this trailer tire.

[BurbMan]

Plumber101010 wrote:
So in other words, the manufacturers are being cheap and trying to get away with bare minimum standards?

NOW you are catching on!!!

Unfortunately the nylon bushings they use are so thin, they don't last long. Here's what mine looked like after 5 years:



I realize you are on the road, but this may not be a fire drill....that's why you need to weigh the trailer so you know what you are dealing with and go from there.

The other option is to put on the highest capacity tires that will fit, squirt some lithium grease spray around the shackle bolts and let it wait until you have time to look at it. Which by the way, not being sarcastic here, is not a bad option and better than doing nothing. Unless you are hugely over the 8000 lb GVWR of the camper, you will likely wind up with some reserve capacity on the new tires, you just won't know how much until you weigh it. Have the tire shop jack up one side at a time and make sure all the suspension parts move freely, spray some grease where you can and save the rebuild for when you have more time.

[BarneyS]

Plumber,
Take a look at this thread to see what can happen to those cheap nylon bushings in just a short period of time. There are much better solutions and they don't cost an arm and a leg - just some time.
Also, you are correct. Travel Trailers are a whole different animal compared to backhoe, flatbed, and/or other type trailers.
Good luck. 🙂
Barney

[Plumber101010]

So in other words, the manufacturers are being cheap and trying to get away with bare minimum standards? I always heard that you should have reserve capacity on your tires, in other words, room to spare 🙂

This case I have the exact opposite!!! Thank you for your replies, I will look under the trailer and see what I can come up with. One of the problems is I am so pushed for time am supposed to be leaving today. I am delaying my trip and going down to a local tire place to see what they can come up with. Hopefully they can look at the suspension also.

I would think the nylon bushings should last longer than a couple years, but then again, I am a newbie don't have a clue. I keep making the mistake of trying to equate all of my towing knowledge with backhoes and trailers and things like that. Travel trailers appear to be it's own different animal.

[gmw_photos]

Plumber,
I looked at the specs of a GY marathon, 205/75-15. It is 27.1" dia.
The GY Cargo LT 225/70-15 is 27.4" dia. Approx 1/4" taller, of which only half ( 1/8" ) is a concern regarding vertical clearance to the fender well. This tire has 2470 lbs of capacity, which is just short of 10,000 pound for four of them.
Don't forget that if your trailer weighs lets say 9000 pounds, then approx 1170 pound is tongue weight, so that weight is not supported by the trailer axles. That is how the RV company gets away with installing tires that have a lower overall capacity than what the trailer GVWR is.

EDIT, I see Don was typing at the same time I was re tongue weight. Also, as Don says regarding LT's, I would add further they bring other advantages as well.

[BurbMan]

Plumber101010 wrote:
To put tires that can handle 7200 pounds from the FACTORY, on a trailer rated at 8000 pds leaves me baffled. )

That's because 13% of the 8000 lbs is carried by the truck in the form of tongue weight. So 13% = 1040 lbs tongue weight, and 8000-1040=6960 carried on the axles. 6960/4=1740 load on each tire assuming all are loaded equally.

Since your TT is a 2010, you probably need to look at the suspension. The nylon bushings they put in the leaf spring eyes and the equalizer link are likely worn through and can cause problems.

The equalizer link is that triangular shaped thingy that connects the front and rear leaf springs on one side. Its there so that the load on that side distributes evenly over those two tires.

After my blowout I found out that the equalizer on that side had frozen in position after the bushings failed, and was no longer free to pivot, and that placed most of the load on the rear tire and less on the front tire.

I went to 16" LT tires after that blowout, but had to raise the chassis 2" because there wasn't enough vertical clearance and the tires were rubbing up top. Distance between the axles was OK. I installed the Correct Track II alignment kit and that gave me a 2" lift as well, but a good suspension shop could weld in blocks under the spring hangers.

Getting weighted is the FIRST thing you should be doing, and NO it's not that difficult. Moving companies, recycling centers, gravel pits, most all have scales and will weigh you for $5. Look in the yellow pages or use your smart phone and search for scales.

NO, you;re not supposed to jettison weight after you hit the scales...NOW you know how much weight you are carrying and then you can shop for tires with the appropriate weight rating. You may have no choice but to go to LTs...

[opnspaces]

Hi Plumber,
True we say weigh the trailer and in truth it's the best thing to do. You don's necessarily need a CAT scale, you just need a scale. Maybe try googling public scales and see what is in your area. You might find a grain elevator, landfill, or moving company nearby that will weigh it for you.

As far as what to do if you are overweight. Well really nothing at the moment. If you are overloaded when you drive in you are no better or worse than if you had not weighed it in the first place. But you might also be able to move some things around in the trailer so get the weight more even.

Anyway good luck with it,

[Plumber101010]

I am pretty sure I can't go 225. 215 I THINK I can. 225 are a little over an inch higher and I only have a couple inches now from top tire to fender wall. I am ASSUMING there needs to be a couple inches room for the suspension play up and down. 215 are 1/2 inch higher and close enough.

Question of the day is how many inches gap do you actually need from the top of the tire to under the fender wall? I could not find anything on that after researching for the last couple hours???

It's always easy to say go weigh your trailer. But in reality, it's a very hard thing to do. I am in the middle of nowhere in a small town and heading out to the mountains. I don't have a lot of choices here as scales go. And then let's just say I do find a cat scales somewhere, what am I to do if over? Then what? I'm supposed to dump gear on the side of the road?

To put tires that can handle 7200 pounds from the FACTORY, on a trailer rated at 8000 pds leaves me baffled. So I can already tell you that this rig with maximum load is more than the tires are rated for. And my opinion that is a safety hazard. Upgrading to load the D or E tires is a no-brainer, regardless of the weight on my rig. I can't ever see how stiffer more load Tires could ever possibly be a negative :))

[Executive45]

WOW !!! ALL these replies and ONLY ONE gives you the BEST answer. Weigh your doggone trailer.....:S. How can you decide to change tires, and/or put different tires on your rig if you don't even know what it weighs...:h.

Once you have your trailer weight, loaded for camping, THEN and only then can you make an intelligent decision whether you have a tire problem. The tires on your trailer may be perfect for it and your "issues" have to do with overloading which no tire will correct.....travel safe.....Dennis

[fla-gypsy]

therink wrote:
Why not upgrade to a Maxxis 225/75/15 E? I did this on my last 12k lb fiver with 15's and it was the best $500 I spent on it. Run them at 80 psi and the trailer will ride like it should. You just have to make sure your wheels are rated for 80 psi. Mine were and it was a 2010 Keystone with aluminum wheels.
Also have them balanced.

This is your answer

[gmw_photos]

if you want to get away from a ST tire and stay in a 15", you might consider the GY cargo G26, in load range D.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Cargo+G26&sidewall=Blackwall&par...

[steve-n-vicki]

the shackle is on the spring connecting it to the equalizer

[JIMNLIN]

Tires with internal slipped belts can look like you describe.
A bent axle or the stub is easy to see. Pull forward several fee until all the side load stress is out of the tire. Now stand back behind the trailer and look at that one odd shaped tire. Worn shackle pins or bushings/etc.

Your in luck looking for a LT or all position tire for your trailer. The ST205-75-15 C = 1820 lb capacity.

Depending on room in the wheel well and proper wheel pressure/wheel width requirements the Goodyear Wrangler HT in a LT235/75-15 C (50 psi) at 1980 lb capacity. Most LT tire makers carry this size.

And a Wrangler HT in a LT215/75-15 D (65 psi) at 2090 lbs capacity. This tire is close to the same diameter as your current tires.

Maxxis LT U-168 are a commercial grade tire with several 15" sizes and have became popular with all types of trailer owners.

Vanco 2 from Continental another popular tire for trailer users has several 15" sizes and load capacities.

I see the Yokohama RY215 in a 700R 15 D at 2040 lbs capacity is popular on some of the other RV websites.

Do your home work on the numbers.