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Our Solar/Inverter system install

mikakuja
Explorer
Explorer
We recently installed our 200w go power solar system on our new Surveyor 245BHS. Along with the solar we installed a 1500w inverter (modified sine for the time being), 30A transfer switch and 2 225AH GC2 batteries. We have also ordered a second 200w panel which should be here in a few weeks... Looking forward to getting the second panel on the trailer!!

Now before I get to the pics I will get this out of the way... The solar system is wired into the 12v input on the distribution center. Yes I know a dedicated run with larger wire would be ideal, but this is the way we have decided to wire it. I realize that not everyone will agree with my choice, but that is ok... I am very happy with the performance of the system which is putting in 10A mid day with a flat mounted panel. Losses with the wire runs are to be expected, but the difficulty and expense of a dedicated run were not worth the gains IMO.

Anyway, here are some pics... I would love to hear your comments.

BTW, I will be installing a battery monitor at a later date.

Click here Slide Show



11 REPLIES 11

mikakuja
Explorer
Explorer
I used screws to hold the Z brackets to the roof and had no issues mounting them, everything is secure. The Dicor was just used to seal the brackets to the roof. If you're concerned with screwing mounting brackets to your roof have a look at the flexible panels. I wouldn't rely on any adhesive to secure solid panels to your roof but it would be fine for the flexible panels.

Sgeorge
Explorer
Explorer
Did you use any screws when mounting your solar panels to the roof? I have a Rockwood and the roof is also a laminated construction. I have been hesitant to mount panels to my roof due to not having any real wood to lag into. It looks like you only used Dicor for attachment, is that correct? I am concerned that only using adhesives could cause the rubber roof to separate form the roofing material. Your thoughts please.
2013 Springdale 232SRT
2016 F250 XLT, 6.2, 4.30.

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
This thread show many pics with good detailed info regarding solar panels. Wiring/connectors etc .
There might be a little something that could be of use .

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23419900.cfm

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
mikakuja wrote:
So, please tell me why 10guage to the power dist center is insufficient for 200w which is a max of 11A.
You're fine, and the wiring will support what you want and more.

The primary concern with wiring is safe capacity, and you're covered. When panels were expensive, people tried to squeeze every little bit out of them, so there was concern for wiring losses, and there were all these recommendations to keep voltage drop below some very small percentage. Nowadays, adding more panels (if you have room) is more economic than rewiring. If a couple percent loss really matters, just add another panel and you'll be much better off.

You may also be told that there's too much voltage drop to charge the batteries properly. Remote battery voltage sensing makes that a complete non-issue, but even without it, it's very, very minor. Voltage drop is greatest during bulk charging, but when the system is doing that, it's already providing all the power it can to the battery. When the battery gets close to full (absorption voltage), both the current and voltage drop start going down. By the time the battery gets very close to full, the current is minimal, so too the voltage drop, so it really doesn't make a significant difference. Overall, the difference may cause your battery to take a few minutes more to get to full charge. Mice nuts.

Remote temperature sensing of the battery is much more important to getting a full charge and keeping your battery happy. The voltage difference with temperature is much greater than the voltage difference due to wiring with any safe wire gauge.

mikakuja
Explorer
Explorer
So, please tell me why 10guage to the power dist center is insufficient for 200w which is a max of 11A.

wanderingbob
Explorer II
Explorer II
The wiring as now will not support the present solar wattage , why an additional 200 watts .

mikakuja
Explorer
Explorer
Still waiting on delivery of the second 200w panel!!! Looking forward to getting it mounted on the trailer...

My apologies to anyone who tried to view the slideshow, it seems to be hit or miss with Photobucket if it will play. It seems that more often than not it is painfully slow loading or freezes altogether.
I will take some time this evening and delete the slideshow and link the rest of the pics.

Mike

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
Looks nice. Sounds like it will be even nicer once you get your second panel installed. I think you'll be quite pleased with the results when it comes to keeping your camping trips virtually effortless when it comes to your battery system.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Looks great! Love the MC4 connectors and direct down to the controller.

mikakuja
Explorer
Explorer
The system seems to perform great on cloudy days as well, just don't have numbers to post at the moment... We haven't actually had the trailer out camping yet, just testing in in the driveway... The extra 200w panel should really help things out on less than perfect days...
Our previous trailer had 260 watts and we were quite happy with that, so 400w should do the trick...

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
If 10 amps midday is enough to recharge your batts then no one should complain. However, on a cloudy day... I believe a solar system should be designed for a less than a perfect day.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad