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Polar Cub Gasket Install Question

Bleugoat
Explorer
Explorer
I have a leak around my Polar Cub A/C. I need to tip the A/C unit over to remove the old gasket and install a new one. It appears that the shroud needs to be in place when I tip it over.

Will the shroud support the A/C when tipped over? The plastic shroud is pretty flimsy, but when I remove it there is really no framework to protect the coils, etc. when tipping over.

The roof on my Apex is flat, so while I have the A/C off I am going to build up the A/C opening with 1/2" plywood and eternabond tape to provide better drainage.

The question is: should I leave the shroud on while tipping the A/C over?
2003 Dodge 3/4 T Cummins
2005 Outfitter Apex 8
12 REPLIES 12

Reddog1
Explorer
Explorer
Bleugoat wrote:
... I am 75 and my friend is 72. May title the post "Two Old Farts on the Roof"! It should be an adventure.
You guys are still kids, and either of you should be able to do the gasket with no help. Well, you are 5 years older than me, so I am sure the help is appreciated. Besides, you gotta have someone to hold your beer. :B


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Bleugoat
Explorer
Explorer
Testudo, the A/C gasket has sticky stuff on it on the A/C side, so it is stuck to the A/C not the roof. When you lift up the A/C the gasket goes with it. I tried tightening the bolts (three of them had worked loose), but that did not fix the problem.

I plan to move the A/C out of the way, build a collar around the opening, then move the A/C back in place and block it up using 4X4 blocks. This should allow access to the gasket on the A/C through the opening from below in order to remove the old and stick on the new.

Tomorrow, a friend of mine and I are going to attempt the repair. I will take pictures and post them. I am 75 and my friend is 72. May title the post "Two Old Farts on the Roof"! It should be an adventure.
2003 Dodge 3/4 T Cummins
2005 Outfitter Apex 8

Testudo
Explorer
Explorer
I don't understand why you have to "tip it over". After removing the shroud, you remove the ceiling unit (inside the camper). Then you unscrew the four hold-down bolts (again, from inside the camper).

After that, you lift the unit out and set it aside on the roof (maybe put down a piece of plywood or even cardboard so it won't gouge your roof).

Once the AC unit is out of the way, you can perfect your seal. (Remove the old seal and replace with new material.)

Note that your leak may simple be a result of one of those four hold-down bolts having backed itself off a little. But I think you said it was a 2005 installation so the seal probably is getting a little punky.
Testudo & Princesse Caribou
2012 FORD F-250 6.2L 4x4 EC SB SRW
2006 FORD F-250 5.4L manual trans (Sniff! Gone but not forgotten!)
2006 OUTFITTER SUPER-Caribou 6.5

Reddog1
Explorer
Explorer
I'm thinking you have got it worked out. Please post photos as you go.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Bleugoat
Explorer
Explorer
I just got through putting eternabond tape on my perimeter roof seams and around my vents. In researching the eternabond I ran across a post (don't remember what forum) by a person who had built a collar for his A/C using 1X4 lumber and sealing it with eternabond tape. After applying the eternabond on my seams I feel comfortable this would work.

My plan right now is to use 1X2 around the A/C opening and attached to the roof with 3m 4000 adhesive sealant. The eternabond tape would then be used to seal the wood providing additional bonding plus a smooth surface for the gasket. The narrow collar would allow all the drain holes to be open.

To support the front of the A/C unit there is an existing piece of foam near the front of the unit. The A/C is now not setting on the roof except at the gasket and the piece foam in front and maybe a small piece of foam at the back. I plan to put another piece of 1X2 attached like the collar for the front piece of foam to ride on.

There is a smaller piece of foam for the back of the unit I may have to deal with like the front. I will see when I get there.

The gasket kit I bought had the opening gasket, the large piece of foam for the front support and a small piece of support foam for the rear.
2003 Dodge 3/4 T Cummins
2005 Outfitter Apex 8

Reddog1
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the positive comments guys.

Correcting the sag in a roof can be tough. The collar does appear to be the only fix, and certainly a logical one. Needless to say, the caulking will be critical. It has been a few years since I installed my Polar Cub. I would consider two collars, one to match the roof opening and the second around the outside edge of the Polar Cub base. If it is practical to put a collar around the outside edge of the base, you can check the caulking by simply removing the cover. It also would give the A/C a bigger footprint.

If the raised collar is only the size to accommodate the gasket, will the A/C have the tendency to rock on the TC? Will you need to add stabilizers under the A/C?


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Bleugoat
Explorer
Explorer
Wayne, Thank you for your advice.

My roof is aluminum framed and supposed to be flat, but actually sags a little and water ponds around the A/C. I checked the drain holes and the back ones are resting almost on the roof. For this reason I want to build a collar around the A/C opening to raise it. This will allow the drain holes to work and also force the water away from the A/C.

I tried cleaning the drain holes and tightening the hold down bolts ( three were very loose). It did not fix the problem. The gasket may not be bad, but I want to replace it while I am up there.

I will have some help and your method of raising the A/C may the best solution.

After looking at the cost of a new shroud, I think I better remove it.

Thanks again. Nothing like the voice of experience.
2003 Dodge 3/4 T Cummins
2005 Outfitter Apex 8

SkiingSixPack
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 has it right (as usual). Do not turn the unit over.

Are you certain the unit is leaking because of the seal? Does it leak only when raining? If so, then maybe it is from a bad seal.

But, if it leaks when not raining and the unit is running, I would say that it is not the seal... then look at all the other possible culprits. Plugged drain hose, unit icing up and then thawing, etc. Searching the posts will help lead you in the right way.

Just my $.02 Good luck!!!
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Reddog1
Explorer
Explorer
The shroud cost about $150 the last time I checked. I would carefully remove it, as stated the UV can make it very brittle.

Are you sure the gasket is leaking. Some folks have had the drain blocked, which in turn leaked inside. Two ways to know for sure, run a water hose from the outside, to see if water gets inside. Another is to run the A/C, and you should have water running from the drain down the TC.

On installing the gasket, you need not remove the A/C. You only need to raise it about four to six inches. If you place 2 or more 2"x4" blocks on each side of the A/C, you can lift one end of the A/C at a time, and slide a 2"x4" under the A/C across to the other side to hold the end up. Repeat on the other end. After you replace the gasket, you can lower the A/C one 2"x4" block at a time. It is easier with two people. I have been there and done that.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Reddog1
Explorer
Explorer
The shroud cost about $150 the last time I checked. I would carefully remove it, as stated the UV can make it very brittle.

Are you sure the gasket is leaking. Some folks have had the drain blocked, which in turn leaked inside. Two ways to know for sure, run a water hose from the outside, to see if water gets inside. Another is to run the A/C, and you should have water running from the drain down the TC.

On installing the gasket, you need not remove the A/C. You only need to raise it about four to six inches. If you place 2 or more 2"x4" blocks on each side of the A/C, you can lift one end of the A/C at a time, and slide a 2"x4" under the A/C across to the other side to hold the end up. Repeat on the other end. After you replace the gasket, you can lower the A/C one 2"x4" block at a time. It is easier with two people. I have been there and done that.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Bleugoat
Explorer
Explorer
Bob, Thanks for the links.

In the how to replace link it says to remove the shroud before lifting to the roof, and in the A/C install manual it says not to lift the unit by the shroud.

For something so heavy, they sure didn't provide any handholds to lift it with.
2003 Dodge 3/4 T Cummins
2005 Outfitter Apex 8

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
Depending on age of the unit, the shroud can become uv damaged. I have seen them crack when handling them.
I have never seen anyone turn one upside down, so i don't really know if it will support it or not.
Here is some good a/c repair, cleaning, replacement info with pics .
You might pick up a few good points here.
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub/How-To-Service-And-Repair-A-Motorhome-Air-Conditioner-AC

how to replacing the a/c unit

Bob