โAug-22-2014 10:38 AM
โAug-26-2014 04:40 AM
LarryJM wrote:No they put GY Marathons on because they are cheaper, quit the opposite of what I said.bid_time wrote:
Did I sum that up correctly?
NO, NO, NO ... you are so far off it's hopeless. But, I also bet you believe what every trailer and car saleman tells you too and since a HUGE number of OEMs use GY Marathon ST tires you believe those are the best tire going since they wouldn't put something on that isn't the "cat's meow" on a trailer would they. :R
Larry
โAug-25-2014 04:31 PM
bid_time wrote:
Did I sum that up correctly?
โAug-25-2014 01:56 PM
djsamuel wrote:
Is a new rear seal required every time the bearings in the EZ Lube hub are removed and hand packed?
โAug-25-2014 01:42 PM
djsamuel wrote:I would. It also is supposed to be a special double lip seal... A regular one will fit, and that may be the cause of some of the failures that occur.
Is a new rear seal required every time the bearings in the EZ Lube hub are removed and hand packed?
โAug-25-2014 10:31 AM
โAug-25-2014 10:30 AM
โAug-25-2014 10:16 AM
โAug-25-2014 09:57 AM
Larry wrote:The truth!
In any event any minor mistakes still doesn't change the bottom line that this feature is not worth the effort or HUGE amount of grease and is frought with potential downsides, blowing out the grease seal only being one.
โAug-25-2014 07:36 AM
BB_TX wrote:
As far as overheating due to being full, it does not happen. I have towed mine thru Texas/NM summer heat of 105+ and the hubs do not get hot. Myth.
LarryJM wrote:
Unfortunately the Timken website in their FAQs Timken FAQs specifically state:
Always follow original equipment manufacturersโ recommendations regarding grease purging and correct replenishment amounts
so Dexter's information and directions trump anything Timken might say to the contrary.
CHECKMATE:p:B
Larry
โAug-23-2014 03:51 AM
โAug-22-2014 04:49 PM
mosseater wrote:
Larry,
You remember last time all the trouble you got in by speaking the truth? Better be careful, some folks don't like the truth.
I realize that, but for the benefit of those that might be misled I sometimes think the effort is worth the trouble.
OH, and another note, if you don't chamfer the hole where the grease comes out at the seal in the rear, you stand a good chance of nicking the seal lip when you put the drum back on. Ask me how I know. A little fine emery cloth goes a long way.
WOW never considered that and THANKS I'll try and remember that for the next service. I just did my bearings and I broke one adjusting spring and ruined a set of shoes and drum and for only $60/wheel I upgraded to the self adjusting brakes by buying the complete assembly ... backing plate, shoes, magnet, all new hardware at my local RV Dealer.
โAug-22-2014 04:40 PM
โAug-22-2014 04:11 PM
AH64ID wrote:Boat trailer bearings are tapered roller bearings. Just like our TT bearings.. I bet some of them are even the same part numbers.
Check out the Timken website on over greasing. I'll take Timken's word as not being a myth, they do know a thing or two about bearings.
If you look at the inside of a removed hub it pretty easy to see how it slings outward. If you have ever pulled a partially full hub, i.e. properly servied, it's also aparant.
Boat trailer bearing buddies work differently, and have a habit of slinging extra grease.
โAug-22-2014 03:19 PM