Replacing the Water Heater Need Help

[whacka_moley]

Hello again!

My water heater needs to be replaced and I am having an identical one ordered, but it is very expensive. My boyfriend wants to get a bigger one for less money at Lowes, but it is just a regular one. We run our old one on just electricity so we aren't worried about whether or not we can use propane.

I just want to make sure that if I buy this 12 gal. water heater that it will work.

Travel Trailer: 1996
Water Heater: Atwood GC something model (propane or electric)
New water heater: Whirlpool Electric 12 Gallon water heater from Lowes

Thank you for any help!

[whacka_moley]

Thank you for all the replies.

Since we live in a park and we don't plan to move any time soon we are going to try the 12 gal. one. We only need enough water to do a shower in the morning and maybe dishes later in the day so I think it will work out okay. I will let you all know how it works out.

[Golden_HVAC]

The water heater that you are looking at has a 3.9 gallon per hour rating. So if filled with 50F water, it will recover the 12 gallons in about 3 hours to 90F warmer.

Your Atwood has a exterior panel, and without it in place, you will have a huge hole in the side of the RV. You might want to keep it there, just so it looks normal, even if there is no longer any water or propane piping connected to it. Or remove it and figure out something to do with the hole and the newly created storage compartment.

I guess you already know that you will not be able to 'dry camp' with hot water anymore, as running the generator for 4 hours to heat the tank is not really practical, but if you only intend to camp in campgrounds with 120 or 240 volt service, you will save money, and the inside well insulated tank type will lose a LOT less heat than the Atwood with a exterior vent and vent line going right through the center of it. Basically the Atwood can go from 120F to the outside air temp +20F in about 5 hours, unless you leave the heating element on. With this heater, you can heat it at home, and still have warm water the next day, if you are not using much of it. Not enough to take a hot shower, but enough to wash hands on a long weekend.

Have fun camping!

Fred.

[Old-Biscuit]

In your situation (trailer permanently parked) a 12 gallon electric residential WH will work just fine.



Water connections are on left side......

Cold inlet bottom connection
Hot outlet top connection
Suggest you install shutoff valves so Wh can be isolated in future if needed.

Drain should be piped outside

The Temp/Press Relief valve on top right.......
That needs to be plumbed with piping to exterior and down below side of trailer.

Then you need to AC wire from circuit breaker to ON/OFF switch to WH t-stats and heater element.

Outside access will no longer be needed so that 'opening' should be closed up to keep weather/critters out and insulated.

Good luck on the project. Lowes has PEX piping and fittings

[whacka_moley]

Thank you for the speedy replies. For Matt: we are always plugged into the electric (think of a mini manufactured home as we have set our trailer and skirted it). Since we are always plugged in will it work okay? Is 120 too much?

I'm not sure how much we are running on now. It's a regular extension cord hooked up to the power pole as far as I know. Sorry for sounding so dumb.

[oldmattb]

You will need to have AC power a couple of hours before bath time, other than that you should be OK.

I checked, and it is a 120-volt appliance.

Matt B

[ScottG]

A pure electric one would work for you - go for it!