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Rivet and washers on Equalizer hitch

michaelman501
Explorer
Explorer
I noticed that the washers on my equalizer hitch were no longer tight, there was lots of space between the washers, is this normal ? Are the washers and the rivet only tight when connected to the trailer and the bars engaged ? I also noticed that the set screw on the bottom of the hitch was only hand tight, again does this get tightened with bars connected and trailer hooked up, or without all of that hooked up ? I referred to the instructions i received with my hitch, and they dont specify. My hitch is a DSP. thanks in advance.


Michael
16 REPLIES 16

Charles2222
Explorer
Explorer
I have an easy2 hitch with same set up .The bolt is 5/8 with 15/16 wrench size.The end of the bolt keeps digging into shank,so I pulled it apart and screwed the bolt in backward with head of bolt to the shank giving more surface on shank.I then put a lock nut on the threads sticking out.I will later make some better way of doing this as I had to tighten it with channel locks I will cut the bolt out when I'm ready to build something,as we are leaving for points west and Yellow Stone on July 6 and not enough time to think it thru

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
michaelman501 wrote:
I was using the word "equalizer" as a general term. My hitch is not equalizer brand, the brand is DSP. Sorry for the confusion.


SoundGuy wrote:
Interesting ... DSP claims to be the oldest and only remaining manufacturer of weight distribution systems here in Canada ... and I've never heard of them nor has anyone I know who RVs has ever mentioned DSP. :h With marketing like this no wonder they're closing down. :S


3oaks wrote:
Well somebody must have heard of them or they wouldn't have been in business since 1961. Don't knock a good ol' respectful Canadian manufacturer or would you rather buy Chinese products? :R


Knock DSP? Oh I get it ... you mean as you're universally "knocking" Chinese products simply because they're Chinese? :h

Pretty difficult to support any business when their marketing is so poor you don't even know they exist. :S
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
GaryWT wrote:
So now I am confused. You asked about washers on an equalizer hitch but you actually do not have an equalizer. You will need to look at your type because the info we gave you is based on an equalizer hitch.


Yep it's confusing when folks don't understand that "Equal-i-zer" (NOTE: it's not "equalizer") is a specific brand and type of hitch just like Reese, HA, ProPride, etc. Not sure why so many folks with other brand WDHs use the term "equalizer" to incorrectly describe their WDH.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

GaryWT
Explorer
Explorer
So now I am confused. You asked about washers on an equalizer hitch but you actually do not have an equalizer. You will need to look at your type because the info we gave you is based on an equalizer hitch.
ME '63, DW 64, (DS 89 tents on his own, DD 92 not so much), DS 95
2013 Premier Bullet 31 BHPR 2014 F350 Crew Cab 6.2L 3.73

3oaks
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
michaelman501 wrote:
I was using the word "equalizer" as a general term. My hitch is not equalizer brand, the brand is DSP. Sorry for the confusion.


Interesting ... DSP claims to be the oldest and only remaining manufacturer of weight distribution systems here in Canada ... and I've never heard of them nor has anyone I know who RVs has ever mentioned DSP. :h With marketing like this no wonder they're closing down. :S
Well somebody must have heard of them or they wouldn't have been in business since 1961. Don't knock a good ol' respectful Canadian manufacturer or would you rather buy Chinese products? :R

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
michaelman501 wrote:
I was using the word "equalizer" as a general term. My hitch is not equalizer brand, the brand is DSP. Sorry for the confusion.


Interesting ... DSP claims to be the oldest and only remaining manufacturer of weight distribution systems here in Canada ... and I've never heard of them nor has anyone I know who RVs has ever mentioned DSP. :h With marketing like this no wonder they're closing down. :S
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

michaelman501
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
michaelman501 wrote:
... i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now.


All versions of the Equal-i-zer built in the last several years use Grade 8 shank bolts that must be torqued to 320 ft/lbs ... only much earlier versions (one of which I purchased back in 2007) used Grade 5 bolts with a lower torque rating. Page 22 of the Equal-i-zer Owners Manual.


I was using the word "equalizer" as a general term. My hitch is not equalizer brand, the brand is DSP. Sorry for the confusion.

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
You can also loosen the side bolts and hook up the trailer. Then use the tongue jack to lift the tongue and take all play out of the rivets. At that point just reach under and tighten the bolt then torque the side bolts. sure the bolt alone will tighten them up, but I like to make sure they are absolutely tight.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
michaelman501 wrote:
... i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now.


All versions of the Equal-i-zer built in the last several years use Grade 8 shank bolts that must be torqued to 320 ft/lbs ... only much earlier versions (one of which I purchased back in 2007) used Grade 5 bolts with a lower torque rating. Page 22 of the Equal-i-zer Owners Manual.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

tll
Explorer
Explorer
The best way I have found to tighten the bolt so it never comes loose is to:
1. Hitch up to your vehicle and install bars, this puts pressure on the rivet and washers.
2. Loosen the two big bolts a bit to make sure the bars are fully putting tension on the rivet and washers.
3. Tighten the 5/8" headed bolt.
4. Tighten the two big bolts to specification.

When setting up a hitch, I can always get another 1/2 turn or so on the 5/8" headed bolt this way. Never comes loose this way either.
2015 Starcraft 299BHU
2011 Jayco X23J(sold)
2009 Ford F150 FX4 SuperCrew

michaelman501
Explorer
Explorer
Hey thanks all for the help, i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now. The help is much appreciated.

Michael

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
michaelman501 wrote:
Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?


Correct, but make sure you torque the BIG bolts to the proper torque.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

jasoncw
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, except you don't need to lift the hitch head up; tightening the bolt at the bottom will do that for you.

Have fun on your trip!
2016 Jayco Eagle 324BHTS
2005 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4.56's, V/C Springs, PP 3P, P3

Past:
2011 Keystone Bullet Premier 31BHPR
2009 Forest River Flagstaff 830RBSS

michaelman501
Explorer
Explorer
Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?