Spare tire access

[ajriding]

The truck camper covers the point above the truck bumper where I crank down the spare tire.
Solutions?
Is there a way to relocate it, or is there an aftermarket tire hoist mechanism which can be operated from somewhere that the camper is not blocking?

[SideHillSoup]

I just went to the local auto wrecker and paid $20 for a set of crack extensions form the same truck I have problem solved for getting the tire down, plus upi carry a 20 ton bottle jack.
Soup.

[emcvay]

No problem 🙂

[LabMan1945]

I have driven over 175K with a spare tire mounted on the front of the truck with absolutely no problems. This has been at altitudes from below sea level (Salton Sea) to 12,000 feet in Montana and at temperatures from zero to 100*F. Putting the spare in front was one of the smartest moves I have made. Easy to remove and use rather than go through contortions to take the factory spare down from underneath.

[Kayteg1]

Bedlam wrote:

Kayteg1 wrote:
Don't think engine cooling is an issue with modern trucks.

The hottest trips are our longest where I am typically loaded 24-26K lbs GCW. Mountain passes may only be 80 degrees once you escape the foothills, but I seem to find those rolling hills with repeated 1000' climbs that are low enough to approach triple digit temperatures. I think the highest coolant temperatures I have seen were about 220 degrees when we got stuck in a construction zone on a mountain pass - It didn't help that some of my fellow travelers started to overheat where there were no shoulders or pull-outs.

Thanks for sharing.
Now I know I made right decision picking up Ford :B

[stevenal]

Z-Peller wrote:

Stevenal wrote:
Z-Peller wrote:

Unless you have a very light camper, you will have to undo tiedowns and raise camper 6” or so on jacks to take weight off truck to jack it up.


Good thing I have a camper with jacks and not a load of gravel. I've looked through the truck manual, and nowhere does it state the truck needs to be unloaded prior to jacking. I would think that failure to provide a jack suitable for the GVWR, or suitable warnings regarding unloading wouldn't get past the legal review.

You may have a valid point, but I subcribe to the old adage " an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"....I have changed an inside dually on the road with my camper on, and only the OEM jack to lift it with. No way I'm sticking my head and shoulders under that fender relying on OEM jack just because there was nothing in the owners manual saying I couldn't. Camper has electric jacks, so seemed a no brainer to me.

That part is in my owner's manual: "Do not get under a vehicle that is only supported by a vehicle jack."

[Bedlam]

Kayteg1 wrote:
Don't think engine cooling is an issue with modern trucks.

The hottest trips are our longest where I am typically loaded 24-26K lbs GCW. Mountain passes may only be 80 degrees once you escape the foothills, but I seem to find those rolling hills with repeated 1000' climbs that are low enough to approach triple digit temperatures. I think the highest coolant temperatures I have seen were about 220 degrees when we got stuck in a construction zone on a mountain pass - It didn't help that some of my fellow travelers started to overheat where there were no shoulders or pull-outs.

[Bedlam]

I have an electric impact wrench for the lug nuts which I follow up with a manual torque wrench. Having an onboard generator sure makes it easy and quicker - I'm not as quick as a pit crew, but I can make just as much noise.

[Kayteg1]

Bedlam wrote:
Although many carry items up front, I feel the air restriction created is not acceptable for summer use. Many people argue that snow plows are mounted on the front, but I don't see many driving in 90-100 degree weather..

Don't think engine cooling is an issue with modern trucks.
I frequently drive in 3-digits weather and even on 7.3l Powerstroke I hear engine fan coming only on long grades, when I was pulling 13k trailer. But I put Mercedes coolant in it and difference was noticeable.
Now I put close to 20k on my 20017 Powerstroke, lot in 128F weather with >5000 lb camper and I don't remember hearing engine fan at all.
Even when I was hauling 8000 lb trailer on 17 miles grades, the new truck will display temperature in numbers once it exceeds 185F (?).
That display was coming up to 190's in those extreme conditions but would drop fast once I come to flatter part and engine fan never engaged.
Meaning the truck has lot of cooling capacity.
I had spare wheel mounted on front of F250 for weight distribution in the past, but wheel alone looks too redneck for me.
That is why I would consider one of front guards that would accommodate that, but the high cost of those prevented that.
Than I put Honda generator on front and that solved the dilemma.

[AnEv942]

ajriding wrote:
I did not find those.

In theTCU thread, 'on the road' section half way down, are a few links to what others have done. Even if you don't plan on changing your own tire-knowing what might be required to get it down and making allowances could save some grief. I'd need to lift our camper pretty high to access so rotated the hoist.

Other than I simply hate using factory screw bottle jacks, I carry hyd jack that lives in camper with stated capacity weight its capable of.
Larger base under jack for soft ground handy, I use couple of our 2x6 leveling blocks. At 150-165# also find the factory tire iron inadequate. Both to break loose and guesstimate tightening. Though I do carry a torque wrench I use a breaking bar with short extension & socket. Leverage makes it easier.

[Bedlam]

Although many carry items up front, I feel the air restriction created is not acceptable for summer use. Many people argue that snow plows are mounted on the front, but I don't see many driving in 90-100 degree weather. I do have front axle and suspension capacity for a heavier bumper and winch, but other priorities have put this lower on my list.

It is true I do not have to worry as much about rear axle capacity on my Class 5 truck, but that was just one of the reasons I chose it over a Class 3. I didn't weigh my 225/70R19.5 tire on a steel rim, but my 245/70R19.5 on alloy was 125 lbs. My spare sits about 3' farther back than if it was installed right behind the rear axle. This is not possible on a chassis cab since the main fuel tank occupies this location.

[Kayteg1]

With spare mounted on the hitch, you sure need 5500 truck for the load.
The 100 lb spare mounted 5 feet behind rear axle adds like 150-170 lb to rear axle load.
For some time I was shopping around for front brush guard with spare wheel rack.
The one I liked not only cost north of $2,000 but also weight over 200lb.
But for those who have problem with rear axle overloading, that might be valid option.

[Bedlam]

Mine sets on top of the SuperTruss:



But used to be attached to the headache rack:

[zb39]

My spare is in the basement. Nice and dry and easy to get at.

[covered_wagon]

I found a bolt head that fit in there perfectly so I can place the shank in a small cordless drill and raise and lower it that way, but my camper rear overhang does not drop down in the way in the rear.

I once had a flat in the snow. Believe me, bringing a tarp to lay on while using the jack and getting the spare was a good thing.