Stabilize Large Trailer

[mroseto]

Hello,

After many years of pulling my trailer, we have made the change to a park model at our favorite campground. We picked up the new trailer this past week but found it doesn't have any stabilizers at all on it. Would have been nice to know prior to accepting delivery. Anyways, I have concrete blocks and floor jacks currently stabilizing the unit but we are still getting quite a bit of wobbly when my kids are playing in the back. I think it might have to do with the direction the blocks are pointing. I have them set with the long side parallel to the trailer. I think it might be best if I turn them 90 degrees and let them be perpendicular to the trailer. We are still getting snow where we camp so we won't be using the trailer for another couple weeks but I want to get it as rock solid as possible.

Any help/tricks would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

[3LittleDucks]

This is timely for me as we are also considering a seasonal site this year.

[myredracer]

Be wary of those aluminum stacker jacks. There is no ANSI, ASME, SAE or any other label/certification on them and they can say whatever they want for a rating. 6,000 lbs per jack is unrealistic. We have a set of them and I would barely trust them to hold up our lawn tractor. Definitely never go under a trailer with them as the only means of supporting the trailer's weight.

The stacker jack's height ranges from 11" min. to 17" max. They are a lot less stable when fully extended (in a sideways direction). Many frames are up around 24" above the ground and you need to use blocks/cribbing to get them to work. They also have a small 6x6" footprint. Just not a stable solution by themselves.

I have used ours maybe 3 times. Such a PITA to put a bunch of cribbing down and they do nothing for fore/aft & sideways movement. If anyone wants ours, make us an offer... I installed BAL lockarm stabilizers and they do a great job.

[mroseto]

Those jacks are exactly what I'm using. I think the problem is I need to get more weight off the tires. I am going to bring my large 3 ton jack with me this weekend and get the weight off. I will post back with an update. I can almost gurantee that's what my problem is.

Thanks but keep the suggestions coming. I'm in a new world with this trailer. The TT I could make solid as a rock.

[the_bear_II]

These work great. Easy to adjust. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Stack-Jacks/14504363

I used them on our 24 ft TT at front , middle and rear frame. Total of 6. Jacked the TT high enough to take the weight off of the suspension. It was rock solid. You'll need more since your park model is longer 8 or 10 should do it.

[myredracer]

Depending on what the soil is like, you may need to remove some of it (at least the organic material) and place some crushed gravel there. Or maybe some lengths of treated lumber in 2 layers, maybe 2-3' in both directions (90 degrees) to spread the load. If frost heaving happens there, maybe you need to go deeper into the ground. Soil can compress and expand season-season too and may want a means of periodically tightening support points (shims or jacks).

You'll definitely need to take weight off the wheels and have supports on at least one side of them. I'm guessing vertical supports every 8' or so but may depend on the frame strength. I would place the concrete blocks in a left/right direction to get a little better lateral restraint.

Not sure what your length and weight is. If you want to do a decent job of it, google what they do for mobile homes for ideas. They pour footing pads, use screw jacks and have stabilization rods/struts. Here is one example but may be a bit extreme for what you have/want.

[hbrady]

Every 4' would make for a long day of shimming but that is a long stretch. If it were me I'd be inclined to try an additional set of blocks under the frame on each side just in front of the axles. I think 3 points on each side would be plenty (provided most of the weight is off the wheels). I'll be interested in how you make out, post some pictures when you are done.

[bid_time]

I would be very careful to only support the trailer frame at only the 4 corners, sounds like a good way to bend the frame in the middle to me. If it were me, I would support the frame every 6-feet or so along the frame.

[naturist]

Oh yeah, getting the weight off the wheels is the key. Every pound ON the wheels is a pound that is atop a spring.

A lot of park models I've seen have had the wheels and tires removed completely. After all, they aren't going anywhere, they don't need them, and removing them allows you to store them someplace off the ground and dry, so they will not rot so soon.

[mroseto]

I guess I never thought to actually jack the trailer up and get most of the weight off the wheels.

That is a great idea. I read that blocks every 4 feet will make it best is that overkill? My trailer is 40' long so that would be 10 on a side.

Thanks

[hbrady]

I don't have a park model but when I bought my 31' TT it was on a seasonal site for 3 years, the setup they had was pretty good. It didn't take too long to remove either. They had jacked it up (so most, if not all weight was off axles) and place cement blocks under each corner (under retracted stabilizers), to level it properly they used some concrete pavers where needed. I used a 12' PT 4x4 and two jacks to lift the rear and remove blocks, the front was a little easier thanks to the tongue jack. It was nice and solid, better than any stabilizers. I think if you turn your blocks (not parallel with length of trailer) and get the weight off the axles you may have better results. Good luck!