Stripped Anode Rod

[Heelbilly]

Hey, y'all.

Alright... I'm in a pickle...

Long story made relatively short, my element went out in my Suburban sw6de water heater. No big deal. I figured I'd drain the tank via the anode rod and give it a look. (My trailer has another drain for the hot water heater...) The trailer is only one year old and I pulled the anode rod last winter when winterizing and put it back in this spring. I'll be totally honest and own my first mistake... This is my first trailer so I'm making a few as I go. When I reinstalled it, I believe I torqued it in there a little too tight. I did use teflon tape in hopes it would come out easier. It was a bear to get out the first time.

Fast forward to today... I've tried everything to get this anode rod out. I started with a 1-1/16" 6 point socket and a breaker bar. Nothing. Not even a little budge. I moved on to my impact wrench. I hit it for a solid minute at 300 ft/lb and nothing...

At this point, I've committed the cardinal sin and rounded off the hex head. I tried getting a pipe wrench on it as a last effort, but there just isn't enough room.

So, I think I'm down to a couple of options:
1. Leave it in there 'cause it ain't coming out. The tank will rust out a lot quicker, but I don't exactly have an option...

2. Drill it. I'm hesitant on this one, and thus the purpose of this post. I'm wondering if anyone has ever gone this extreme and been successful?

I suppose option 3 is get a new water heater, but I don't particularly care for option 3. I thought about a socket for rounded bolts. I have some that I got years ago at Sears. They only go up to 3/4" though. I haven't seen one big enough for a 1-1/16".

Thought I'd check with you smart folks to see if you had any sage advice?

I appreciate it.

[Heelbilly]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Anode rod head is soft steel with a steel rod that the magnesium (or aluminum) sacrificial material is formed around

Flat surface on head.......aluminum material on rod
Bump on surface of head....magnesium material on rod




Suburban uses an anode rod because tank is a 'glass-lined steel' tank.

Sometimes it helps trying to 'tighten' a stuck bolt FIRST before trying to unscrew it.

Anode rod is necessary to protect that steel tank from rusting out.
Suburban tanks are not available for replacement....have to replace WHOLE water heater

Drill it then E-Z out it

After removal.....use a 3/4" NPT pipe nipple to chase drain hole threads (clean up/straighten them)

I responded before seeing your whole post... Hmmm... Now I'm thinking of tackling it again.

If I "blow it" and end up needing a new tank, any advice on that? Recommend going back with the Suburban?

[Heelbilly]

djsamuel wrote:
After 3 years, the anode in my suburban water heater is about 1/3 gone or so. You're probably better than that with a 1 year old trailer. I'd leave it for now.

I think you're right... Heater works fine... Well, once I get the element in. It went out on my last trip. I switched to propane and had hot water without issue.

Old-Biscuit... Thanks! Learned something today. It is magnesium.

I'm sure this won't be the last goof I have while learning the ropes, but hey, it's still fun.

[Old-Biscuit]

Anode rod head is soft steel with a steel rod that the magnesium (or aluminum) sacrificial material is formed around

Flat surface on head.......aluminum material on rod
Bump on surface of head....magnesium material on rod




Suburban uses an anode rod because tank is a 'glass-lined steel' tank.

Sometimes it helps trying to 'tighten' a stuck bolt FIRST before trying to unscrew it.

Anode rod is necessary to protect that steel tank from rusting out.
Suburban tanks are not available for replacement....have to replace WHOLE water heater

Drill it then E-Z out it

After removal.....use a 3/4" NPT pipe nipple to chase drain hole threads (clean up/straighten them)

[djsamuel]

After 3 years, the anode in my suburban water heater is about 1/3 gone or so. You're probably better than that with a 1 year old trailer. I'd leave it for now.

[Heelbilly]

Passin Thru wrote:
I have drilled out a lot of bolts. Get a 5/16 EZ out (or larger), some penetrating oil and spray the penetrant on. Wait 24 hrs but keep wetting it down every time you can. You may even take a torch, heat the bolt and spray it with oil. Use a set of step drills, start small and work up to a them hole big enough to drive the EZ out in with a ballpeen. The tricky part is to have a wrench that fits the EZ out as it usually has to be really square to it or it will shear off the EZ out. Carefully put pressure on it and keep adding penetrating oil and waiting. The problem is usually clearance to get the tools in there. Search EZ outs on youtube.

You think the EZ Out will hold under that much pressure? That's my only hesitation... Once I start drilling I'm all in. I believe the head of the anode rod is aluminum. It about has to be to have rounded off so easy with a 6 point socket.

[Passin_Thru]

I have drilled out a lot of bolts. Get a 5/16 EZ out (or larger), some penetrating oil and spray the penetrant on. Wait 24 hrs but keep wetting it down every time you can. You may even take a torch, heat the bolt and spray it with oil. Use a set of step drills, start small and work up to a them hole big enough to drive the EZ out in with a ballpeen. The tricky part is to have a wrench that fits the EZ out as it usually has to be really square to it or it will shear off the EZ out. Carefully put pressure on it and keep adding penetrating oil and waiting. The problem is usually clearance to get the tools in there. Search EZ outs on youtube.

[Terryallan]

If it were me. I'd just leave it. My first Water heater didn't even have one, so I'm not totally convinced they really, really need one.
However. If you can't get it out. You need to be sure the water heater will drain thru the low point drains. If it won't. you will have to get the plug out