TC Sliding Around in the Bed of Truck

[HadEnough]

Hey guys.

My Arctic Fox seems to be sliding around a lot in the back of the truck.

It has the quality, stainless frame mounted tie downs. 4 stainless FastGun ones.

However, it keeps slipping back due to the awesome power of my Cummins Turbo diesel with Edge performance enhancement and custom exhaust.

Instead of sitting tight up against the rear of the cab, it slips back about a foot. And it's a short bed truck so it's concerning me a bit.

It has the rubber mat under it and the the tie downs are about as tight as I can get them but it still slips back. (doesn't slip forward again... Stays back).

Is this something I should be worrying about?

It's in constant use. I've been touring the country full time for a year.

[HadEnough]

I can take a picture later after the Hurricane is over.

[Kayteg1]

GeoBoy wrote:
Do you have a picture of your setup? My AF 990 weighs over 4500 lbs. and doesn't move an inch!

Mine is 6500 lb and when older Fleetwood did stay put, the Lance did "walk" over rubber mat about 1/2" on 2000 miles trip.
I increased front ties stretch from 1/4 to 1/2" and it seem to hold.
At some point I was considering flipping torklift tie-downs so the 2-nd hole would move forward 2" but Torklift never responded to the question, so I guess they don't approve it.

[SidecarFlip]

All simple geometry.

[GeoBoy]

Do you have a picture of your setup? My AF 990 weighs over 4500 lbs. and doesn't move an inch!

[HadEnough]

It still slid around a bit. You can't always be slow about things. Merging onto highways is something that comes to mind. What I did instead now as I tied a couple of ropes to the thing. And to the frame of the vehicle. Those have kept it from moving even an inch. I post this so that if other people are having the same problem the thread has a solution.

[HadEnough]

I think I've learned this art to the tie downs with the help of this forum.

Been traveling this whole time and all it did was settle 2 inches back and stay there. Seems to be fixed by better tie down usage and not being an idiot while driving. All user error. Ha ha ha.

[jimh406]

Front tiedowns will help with the front, but let's think about this for a moment. What has more force on a tiedown and tiedown point? 4000 divided by 2 or divided by 4? I think TCs have 4 tiedown points for a reason. You are likely better off having all tiedowns properly tightened which I'd say is a bit of an art.

I have noticed that there is some settling sometimes because I apparently don't load perfectly center every time. When I stop, I check the tighteness and readjust as necessary. Sometimes that means I loosen some and tighten others.

[Grit_dog]

^ That makes sense, to reduce stress on the camper tie downs, however in my experience I haven't seen the camper/truck get that twisted up where it would be an issue.
But I have a heavy camper too and as such shy away from most off camber situations that would try to pretzel the frame.
Plus that's why the tiedowns should have a spring attachment of some sort, to soften those types of unexpected stress.

[todsme]

Front tie downs should be secure. Rear tie downs not so much. Frame of truck has least flex on front turn buckle points.rear anchors of truck twist like frame of truck does.campers have less structural integrity in back. You stress and can pull camper back over tightening rear turn buckles. If your truck can roll coal. Then try 3m spray glue,or VHT track bite maybe on rubber bedliner.

[HadEnough]

Grit Dog:. Thanks for the advice on making a more "sticky" liner/tc interface.

I'll do that next time she's off or I'm at a campground. That's a great idea.

Yes, it's a rubber bed mat on metal.

I've definitely learned not to have fun driving the truck with the 2 ton TC back there. I think I just loved the acceleration so much I was rolling through the gears fast for fun. Now that I stopped doing that, the tc hasn't moved. And I'm bored. Ha ha ha.

Seriously, I guess I'll save play time for when the TC is off the truck.

[Kayteg1]

With new diesels you have conflict you better be aware.
When the engine will pull heavy load at 1600 rpm just fine, the DPF doesn't like "Grandpa" driving style, so it is advised to redline it from time to time.
Ford's engine has computer limited torque at lower gears, so you will not loose control like those guys driving Corvettes on youtube.
On my new truck I have Ford bed mat. It was about $150 option but looks like it is doing good job as I don't see movement. When I have blocks holding front of camper from shifting, the rear just sits on the mat with fastguns having no tension.
Since my camper has bottom pan dropping down behind the bed, I have about 1/2 " tolerance between side scrapping the tailgate opening or pan hitting the bumper.
Never have seen that gap changing.

[Grit_dog]

Welcome to owning a good running diesel!
Lay off the skinny pedal or figure out why it's sliding. I have a similar running truck. Could do a boosted 2wd launch with the camper and probably smoke the tires on dry pavement, but I don't. Can't say that I've ever tried to drag race from a dig with the camper on, lol, but yes a modded diesel can still move out as fast as you can shift gears even with a camper on. But just because you can doesn't mean you should.
The sooner you figure out you have a high profile 2 ton load in the bed only held in by 4 little tie downs, the better.
But I still think there's something else causing the sliding. Was mention of newer rubber bed mats that are actually recycled plastic and don't grip like horse mats or older bed mats. Got one of those? Or a plastic bed liner under the mat? Idk if you answered that.
If you're really not trying to launch the camper out the back and just came off wrong in your description here's what I'd do.
Screw the bed mat to the truck bed so it can't move. A dozen self tappers with fender washers will do the trick. Then "stud" the bottom of the camper. Install some little bed head sheet metal screws into the bottom of the frame. Those will bite into the mat and give it a lot more grip.

[HadEnough]

Grit dog wrote:

HadEnough wrote:
Sidecarflip:. I think I need to slow down. I have been pushing full acceleration with the tc in place. I can still smoke some cars with the tc on the back.

Definitely need to just be more gentle.

You're serious?
Guess this is why people say they won't buy used vehicles......

Yeah. At 1200-2200 rpms too. This thing has ridiculous torque.

Press the throttle about 3/4 of the way and shoves you back in the seat even with the tc on. Standard transmission too, so...

Drives like a regular car/performance car with the tc. Frankly, it's the most powerful vehicle I've ever owned.

The previous owner tricked it out. Edge performance computer, upgraded transmission, upgraded differential, custom exhaust, performance fuel pump, air bags for suspension, exhaust brake, new rims for the TC load, large truck tires for the load (regroovable so can't get a flat...thick). Everything.

Anyway, thanks for all the help.

Still learning a thing or 2 about using a tc. In a lot of ways they are easier than boats (my forte), but in other ways, there is a definite learning curve.

[Grit_dog]

HadEnough wrote:
Sidecarflip:. I think I need to slow down. I have been pushing full acceleration with the tc in place. I can still smoke some cars with the tc on the back.

Definitely need to just be more gentle.

You're serious?
Guess this is why people say they won't buy used vehicles......