Google found the old topic here about step installation, but for some reasons it is closed, so can't add to it.
I did not like any solution so thinking it over come to design that gives me all the options I want.
Using small pieces of aluminium bar that come with installation kit, I used them to make moving hinges from my original step. This way the Torklift steps rest firmly on the top of my bumper when on the road and even I did not try it, likely they will stay there with no additional fasteners ( I still will use a strap as our bumpy roads can send everything airborne) and when I want to enter the camper quickly, I can just drop the factory step down with Torklift still attached.
The setup gave me even 7" steps from top of the bumper all the way down to the ground. Step from the door to bumper still is 9", but there is not much I can do about it.
What you don't see on the picture, I used a spacer between Torklift bar and factory steps to make space for bolt head to go between. I used bigger nut for it.
I am big fan of stainless steel fasteners for RV so all the pins and washers are SS.
I did not like any solution so thinking it over come to design that gives me all the options I want.
Using small pieces of aluminium bar that come with installation kit, I used them to make moving hinges from my original step. This way the Torklift steps rest firmly on the top of my bumper when on the road and even I did not try it, likely they will stay there with no additional fasteners ( I still will use a strap as our bumpy roads can send everything airborne) and when I want to enter the camper quickly, I can just drop the factory step down with Torklift still attached.
The setup gave me even 7" steps from top of the bumper all the way down to the ground. Step from the door to bumper still is 9", but there is not much I can do about it.
What you don't see on the picture, I used a spacer between Torklift bar and factory steps to make space for bolt head to go between. I used bigger nut for it.
I am big fan of stainless steel fasteners for RV so all the pins and washers are SS.
One of complains in old topic was that factory cable, holding the weight of steps gave up and steps got damaged when dragging behind the camper.
I am trying to finish the project without drilling holes in the original camper.
Already figured out how to run small bungee cords from the folded steps to sticking latches from storage door behind.
Since the weight of the steps rest on the bumper, I have no need for factory cable.
I am trying to finish the project without drilling holes in the original camper.
Already figured out how to run small bungee cords from the folded steps to sticking latches from storage door behind.
Since the weight of the steps rest on the bumper, I have no need for factory cable.
When I bought my TC, the previous owner had just added a set of glow steps. He mounted them to the rear face of the bumper and added an extra step on top of the bumper. They are rock solid.
They are mounted so well that hanging off the bumper didn't bother me except for the small 1/16" cable that keeps them folded while traveling.
I added a 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar with a slot cut in one end that is bolted on to the top step. When folded, it slip over the eye bolt on the bottom step similar to a door hasp.
That keeps me from needing bungee cords to keep it secure on ruff roads.
The small cable became a lanyard for a spring clip to secure the "hasp".
"hasp" from underneath. Obviously missed washing the algae off the back of the steps:
Top step is mounted with a 2" stainless lag bolt on each side:
There are two rubber Reese 2" hitch covers mounted where the original step hangers are that keep it from hitting/rattling on the bumper.
They are mounted so well that hanging off the bumper didn't bother me except for the small 1/16" cable that keeps them folded while traveling.
I added a 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar with a slot cut in one end that is bolted on to the top step. When folded, it slip over the eye bolt on the bottom step similar to a door hasp.
That keeps me from needing bungee cords to keep it secure on ruff roads.
The small cable became a lanyard for a spring clip to secure the "hasp".
"hasp" from underneath. Obviously missed washing the algae off the back of the steps:
Top step is mounted with a 2" stainless lag bolt on each side:
There are two rubber Reese 2" hitch covers mounted where the original step hangers are that keep it from hitting/rattling on the bumper.
Farmerjon wrote:
kerry4951,
Off topic. Your blocks look just like ours. We used blocks with a Cup cut into the block to make the leg stay put near the edge so we could get away from the dually's and gain a little height and not sink in the gravel.
What are yours for, traction on the concrete?
Please excuse me Op.
No real reason other than to keep the metal jack bases off the wet concrete which can happen during heavy rains
kerry4951,
Off topic. Your blocks look just like ours. We used blocks with a Cup cut into the block to make the leg stay put near the edge so we could get away from the dually's and gain a little height and not sink in the gravel.
What are yours for, traction on the concrete?
Please excuse me Op.
Off topic. Your blocks look just like ours. We used blocks with a Cup cut into the block to make the leg stay put near the edge so we could get away from the dually's and gain a little height and not sink in the gravel.
What are yours for, traction on the concrete?
Please excuse me Op.
I used one of my factory steps upside down and added an extension to give me a little higher first step coming out and also a wider area. It is mounted permanently but can be removed in a few minutes if I have to. I always felt that the factory steps were weak and tucked in too far making them hard to hit especially coming out of the camper. Atleast this way I can make something useful out of one of them.
