Torque Lift Tie Down Anchor Flew Off!!

[HadEnough]

Does anyone know where I can order *just the insert* for a Torklift TC tie down?

The part with the 2 holes that slides into the thing that looks like a hitch receiver coming out of the side of the truck?

Somehow... My pin vanished that holds it in place and the thingbflew off the truck on 75 near Tampa yesterday.

Looked VERY long in the rear view mirror so I thought it was road debris someone hit. Turns out it was road debris I created.

I don't know where I was when it flew off so I need to get just that part.

Seems to come as very expensive full kits only.

I just need the driver's side rear insert. The one farthest away in this pic.

[Grit_dog]

^^ If you’re driving roads that tear the tiedowns apart on your truck or camper, they’re the wrong roads or you’re driving it like a Baja truck.....
The camper will theoretically ride x country and back with no tie downs as long as it’s kept from shifting forward or side to side.
Think about the weak link in the equation in extreme situations. Would you rather it b the truck frame, camper tie down mounts, tie downs snapping or a $30 replaceable in 1 minute part yielding?

Seriously, put a set of torklift tie downs on the truck and some hardware store chain and turnbuckles. Drove to AK, all over the AK backcountry , across the L 48 , Frost heaves, river beds, fire roads, nothing has broke.
Start messing with pre engineered systems though, and unless you know what you’re doing, you’re likely to break something you don’t want to.

[wnjj]

HadEnough wrote:

wnjj wrote:
Take the other side to a metal fab shop and have them build the mirror image. Paint it yourself to save some $.

Even faster!

I have the exact one I need as the front driver's side tie down. They could copy it exactly.

My front ones have a bend since the tubes the plug into are angled downward. The rear ones are straight. Your application must be different.

[Kayteg1]

HadEnough wrote:


My guess is the slot they cut is a fuse.

If you pull super hard on the plate like the TC would, the plate looks like it's made to rip before your frame/anchors do.

One of the members reported that after driving over the bump, the weak link turned out to be 1" tubing. It simply bend, while slots were untouched.
Frankly when I see small tubing and 3/8" rods holding my 6500lb camper, I have 2nd thoughts entering those 15% + grades.
Another member wrote that taking his smaller camper off-road - he is adding nylon strap around it and attached to front of truck bed.
So, next time I go on longer trip with TC, a strap goes into camper storage.

[jimh406]

The oval slot in the insert makes it easier to put end of the fastguns in.

[HadEnough]

Kayteg1 wrote:

HadEnough wrote:

Kayteg1 wrote:
I build rear tie-downs myself and it is 1" square tubing you can buy at Home Depot.
Than I used 3" square washer used for house anchoring to weld it on the end and drill 2 holes.
About $10 worth of material.

Now that's a good idea!

Could you expand a little more on how you bolted the flat, end face plate with the holes to the 1" square tubing?

As I said, it needs to be welded, although I could think about bolt-on application.
Original plates have a hole with cut slot. I could never figure out what is the purpose of it.
Bottom line, I put about 10,000 miles with home-made rear tie-downs with no problem.
Front base is what is complicated, but you need just the insert, so even if you don't DIY, any weld shop should fabricate that in minutes.

Thank you.

My guess is the slot they cut is a fuse.

If you pull super hard on the plate like the TC would, the plate looks like it's made to rip before your frame/anchors do.

[Kayteg1]

HadEnough wrote:

Kayteg1 wrote:
I build rear tie-downs myself and it is 1" square tubing you can buy at Home Depot.
Than I used 3" square washer used for house anchoring to weld it on the end and drill 2 holes.
About $10 worth of material.

Now that's a good idea!

Could you expand a little more on how you bolted the flat, end face plate with the holes to the 1" square tubing?

As I said, it needs to be welded, although I could think about bolt-on application.
Original plates have a hole with cut slot. I could never figure out what is the purpose of it.
Bottom line, I put about 10,000 miles with home-made rear tie-downs with no problem.
Front base is what is complicated, but you need just the insert, so even if you don't DIY, any weld shop should fabricate that in minutes.

[HadEnough]

wnjj wrote:
Take the other side to a metal fab shop and have them build the mirror image. Paint it yourself to save some $.

Even faster!

I have the exact one I need as the front driver's side tie down. They could copy it exactly.

[wnjj]

Take the other side to a metal fab shop and have them build the mirror image. Paint it yourself to save some $.

[HadEnough]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I build rear tie-downs myself and it is 1" square tubing you can buy at Home Depot.
Than I used 3" square washer used for house anchoring to weld it on the end and drill 2 holes.
About $10 worth of material.

Now that's a good idea!

Could you expand a little more on how you bolted the flat, end face plate with the holes to the 1" square tubing?

[Ramblin__Ralph]

I bought replacement parts damaged in a collision direct from TorkLift.

[Kayteg1]

I build rear tie-downs myself and it is 1" square tubing you can buy at Home Depot.
Than I used 3" square washer used for house anchoring to weld it on the end and drill 2 holes.
About $10 worth of material.

[jimh406]

Try Craigslist or eBay.

[sbryan]

Yup, call Torklift. They have great customer service.

[work2much]

I would call Torklift. They have good customer service.