towing near max weight. advice?

[jhill7]

Hello all! I am new to the forums and was hoping for some much needed advice. My wife and I have been shopping for a new TT for almost 6 months and have finally fallen in love with one.

We are getting a StarCraft Autumn Ridge 289BHS. The TT should be delivered in July and I want to get all my prep done to the truck before it arrives.

I drive a 2007 Dodge 1/2 ton with the 5.7 hemi and it has the 3.92 rear gear. According to Dodge I can trailer 7650 max weight. The TT I am getting is 6900. I know the tanks will weigh a lot when full but we have never filled fresh water in the past an always empty the others before hitting the road.

I have a prodigy P2 brake controller and a WDH with sway control. I plan on either adding air bags or helper springs for the rear. Any advice on this setup? Thanks for anyone who can give some real world input on trailering near their max.

[Nvr2loud]

ah64id wrote:
The drive carefully comments always make me laugh. You can always drive carefully when overloaded...

Just sounds better then... You can drive carelessly if you're set-up properly LOL

[AH64ID]

The drive carefully comments always make me laugh. You can always drive carefully when overloaded... But what happens when an emergency swerve or stop has to happen? Is the overloaded suspension, frame, steering, tires, etc up to the task? Those are the times you cannot prepare or plan on, and they can easily be out if your control.

I don't list brakes because it's a gray area. The TV brakes are designed to stop GVWR plus a 2000 trailer without brakes. As the TT will have brakes the TV is within it's brake design limits. Now in an emergency the TV brakes have the initial braking power, but the TT will kick in quick.

[westend]

jmcgsd wrote:
Remember, towing is only 1/2 the problem, the other 1/2 is STOPPING!

All the air bags, WDH, heavier springs, etc mods won't do a darn thing for your brakes. A 1/2T truck is still built on a car chassis and has brakes to match.

I would agree with about half of this, mods don't help braking. A pickup truck is not built on a car chassis unless you equate car chassis with monocoque frame and body integration. That is only true for some smaller trucks.
The brake parts in a standard 1/2 ton or bigger truck are not the same as your car brake assemblies. Rotors, pads, and calipers are bigger and may have additional pistons within.

Beyond that, it's not the duty of the truck to brake the trailer. That chore is the role of trailer brakes. If you are having a lot of brake fade with your trailer and the tow vehicle is doing most of the work, you have a problem with the trailer brakes.

[Nvr2loud]

DukeAJuke wrote:
OP- I have a 31' Keystone that is 6800lb dry and I have pulled it thousands of miles with my F150 1/2 ton EB without any issue. Would a 3/4 ton be better? Of course. But it is not necessary as long as you drive carefully, have a good WDH, and are no going crazy over your cargo rating (I'm talking more than 600lb or so). As far as safety goes, the things that matters most are your tires and trailer brakes. Make sure you are using LT or XL rated tires and always test your trailer brakes before pulling away.

I want to change your statement a little bit...

Make sure you are using LT or XL or ST rated tires that are rated to handle the weight you are carrying.

Many trailers only have rim sizes that can take ST tires, I have 14" rims and the size tire that fits is not available in an LT. I had ST(B) rated tires and I was not happy with the load rating for those tires. I replaced with identical size ST(C) rated tires that now exceed my trailers maximum GVWR. I have a GVWR of around 6000lb and tires rated for just over 7000lbs. Between the extra 1000lbs of rating and the tongue taking another 800lbs or so away, I'm much happier with the safety margin now.

[DukeAJuke]

OP- I have a 31' Keystone that is 6800lb dry and I have pulled it thousands of miles with my F150 1/2 ton EB without any issue. Would a 3/4 ton be better? Of course. But it is not necessary as long as you drive carefully, have a good WDH, and are no going crazy over your cargo rating (I'm talking more than 600lb or so). As far as safety goes, the things that matters most are your tires and trailer brakes. Make sure you are using LT or XL rated tires and always test your trailer brakes before pulling away.

[dadmomh]

Tis the season to appear to be raining on everyone's parade. The OP says "we are getting....should be here in July". That sounds like a pretty much done deal. I'm no expert on #s, but from what I do understand, he's going to need to weigh the potato chips when time comes to load. Modding all the things to his tow vehicle seems like bandaiding. And it's going to cost $$$. So seems like we've again managed to ruin someone's day. OP, what would be the chance of finding a gently used truck that does have a beefier towing capability....forget new if that doesn't fit into your budget right now. You might be able to find something that would serve you well and SAFELY for a couple of years and then move up if you want.

It would be so great if manufacturers gave easier to understand #s, took the game-playing out of it, and everyone would be happier. It's a bummer for a newbie to find "the perfect" trailer, do a bit of homework that makes them feel that they're good, and then the whole thing unravels. So sorry OP, none of us enjoy sharing the bad news, but we'd rather tell you that you have a problem than to read about it in the news. If you can't work something out on the truck, would your dealer let you make a change to a somewhat smaller, lighter trailer - even though it's not perfect - and look at changes down the road?? Keep us posted.

[coolbreeze01]

jhill7 wrote:
Hello all! I am new to the forums and was hoping for some much needed advice. Any advice on this setup? Thanks for anyone who can give some real world input on trailering near their max.

Welcome to the forums.
As far as advice, you know your own comfort level, and in my experience, skill will compensate for inadequate equipment, before adequate equipment will compensate for lack of skill.
Enjoy your new trailer.

[Nvr2loud]

My Truck:
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Quad Cab, 5.3 liter, 3.42 gears, with a max tow rating of 9500 lbs. I have a max payload rating of 1420 lbs. I have a max tongue weight of 1100 lbs.


My Trailer:
2004 R-Vision Trail Cruiser 30 QBSS
Dry Weight listed 4370 lbs
Actual loaded weight 6006 lbs.

I am WAY under max tow rating
I am AT Max Payload for my 1/2 ton
Okay to drive, not scary unless tongue weight too low then I get sway.

The trailer you want is TOO heavy for your truck. You decide for yourself if you feel it is safe to tow overweight. You asked for an opinion, so we are giving one.

[dspencer]

mike77leprechaun wrote:
I'll give you my advise from someone who has done what you are asking about for years with three different trailers and taken all kinds of grief from people on this board for it....... The truck WILL tow it, and it WILL be miserable. It will be hard to control and stressful. It will wear on that truck. I am not a "you need a diesel to tow a pop up" type person but after upgrading my truck I finally know what towing is supposed to be like no stress. So yeah I wouldn't let the fact that you're going to be a bit over get in the way of getting the trailer you want but it's not going to be a fun tow.

I'm a lot like mike77, I have done what your considering and it isn't a fun towing experience. In fact I just came back from vacation and in the campground I was in, the guy next to me was pulling a 32ft 5er with a Silverado 1500 with the 5.7. All I can say is i'm glad it was him and not me. Currently i'm towing about 6200lbs fully loaded to camp and 26ft with my 12 Silverado 1500 with the 342 gears and a tow capacity of 9600. I'm towing as much as I would want to tow with that truck. As Mike said you can tow it but it will NOT be a good experience. Good Luck and let us know how you come out.

[samhain7]

I have the same trailer (which is an awesome rig btw), and the same truck except mine is 2011 with the tow package. I added air bags...
I have an e2 wd and integrated sway control. The truck pulls fine and no issues with sway or a bad towing experience.HOWEVER, as others have mentioned, it is very close or over some ratings. So a new truck it is for us next year. .....and we have our trips this year limited to no farther then two hours. ....

[APT]

Towing an RV is hard work, the hardest type of trailer. The tow rating is for the easiest type. An 8k V-nose boat with 8% TW for example will tow far better than a 6000 pound TT.

Towing that TT with that truck will likely be 500 pounds over GVWR, rear axle, and GCWR of the truck. Lots of people do it anyway. If you want to stay under all of those, better analysis of your truck's ratings needs to be done. Start with the tire and loading sticker for as equipped payload that fla-gypsy posted. Subtract the weight of your family plus about 200 pounds for stuff that fills up the truck bed. Multiply by 7 for a reasonable dry RV weight.

[MM49]

jhill7 wrote:
Hello all! I am new to the forums and was hoping for some much needed advice. My wife and I have been shopping for a new TT for almost 6 months and have finally fallen in love with one.

We are getting a StarCraft Autumn Ridge 289BHS. The TT should be delivered in July and I want to get all my prep done to the truck before it arrives.

I drive a 2007 Dodge 1/2 ton with the 5.7 hemi and it has the 3.92 rear gear. According to Dodge I can trailer 7650 max weight. The TT I am getting is 6900. I know the tanks will weigh a lot when full but we have never filled fresh water in the past an always empty the others before hitting the road.

I have a prodigy P2 brake controller and a WDH with sway control. I plan on either adding air bags or helper springs for the rear. Any advice on this setup? Thanks for anyone who can give some real world input on trailering near their max.

I think that you will do just fine. You sound like a guy that is capable of making decisions. You might need to add bags or some heavier tires, but you'll get the job done. Dodge trucks have always been very conservative in their specifications. The truck going to do well. Let us know how you journey develops. If all the F150 drivers are doing the same or more, you certainly can do it also. Just make a decision and implement your solution.
MM49

[jmcgsd]

Remember, towing is only 1/2 the problem, the other 1/2 is STOPPING!

All the air bags, WDH, heavier springs, etc mods won't do a darn thing for your brakes. A 1/2T truck is still built on a car chassis and has brakes to match.

[goducks10]

There's one way to look at it, and that's that he'll be just like 1/2 the other people you see walking around a CG. Over weight. Doesn't make it right. Just is what it is.

To the OP, if you're financially buried in your truck and have now way out of the TT before delivery. I would suggest getting a tire upgrade at the minimum. Install some air bags to help with handling or maybe Timbrens. And look for a used Hensley Arrow WDH.
None of these will make your truck into a 3/4 ton but if you have no way out, then working on the trucks carrying capacity is the least you can do. Pack light and drive carefully. At the very least make it work for a couple years till you can upgrade trucks.

As a side question, did you sign any papers obligating you to buy the TT upon delivery? Even loosing the deposit would be better than doing unnecessary upgrades on the truck.

If there's anyway possible to back out of the TT, then do it. Look for something lighter. The floor plan you're looking at is a dime a dozen in TT's. Try looking in another town. We got out current 5'er 300 miles away.

[Campfire_Time]

jhill7 wrote:
I don't think the problem is the tow capacity but rather the payload.

Actually, the problem is both tow capacity and payload. I have towed two trailers with TVs at near capacity. It works, its doable, setup properly its safe and controllable. But you need to understand the limitations. Forget about long trips and mountains. Trips within a few hours are all you will feel comfortable doing. That isn't bad, it just is. And if you can live that then you'll be happy.

However...

mike77leprechaun wrote:
I'll give you my advise from someone who has done what you are asking about for years with three different trailers and taken all kinds of grief from people on this board for it....... The truck WILL tow it, and it WILL be miserable. It will be hard to control and stressful. It will wear on that truck. I am not a "you need a diesel to tow a pop up" type person but after upgrading my truck I finally know what towing is supposed to be like no stress. So yeah I wouldn't let the fact that you're going to be a bit over get in the way of getting the trailer you want but it's not going to be a fun tow.

I agree with most of this. I was never miserable or felt stressed. But I didn't care for the limits towing near capacity left us with. Leaving a generous amount of "reserve" capacity makes a huge difference with your towing towing "pleasure".

2012Coleman wrote:
I looked up the TT the OP is expecting delivery on - brocure gross weight is 8500 lbs and hitch weight is 710 lbs. Not sure how hitch weight was calculated

Realistically the TW is going to be over 1100#, probably more than the hitch is rated for.