Travel Trailer showing signs of potential problems ...

[zul]

Or are these REAL problems??

We just bought our first trailer (23ft Trail Cruiser by R-Vision), finished 2 great trips and now we are trying to figure out if 'THE SKY IS FALLING' or if we just need to maintain this thing properly ... so here goes the delemas:

1. Tiny bubbles, front and rear panels ... delamination? You can only see the slight waves in certain light (thanks to my very good eyesight). For example, other people can't see the waves at all, but I can (sometimes). Just starting to delam?? Everything looks to be caulked up really well. No problem ... Start of problem or Panic time?

2. Roof material: Coming up on the side rails. Not cracking or peeling but it is separating up from the ply-wood roof on the edges/rails. Upon touch, it leaves a chalky substance on my fingers. Is this the roof material failing or left over gunk from prior sealent/care? Should the material coming up / chalky stuff cause panic and expensive rubber roof replacement? Or can someone suggest a product to coat / seal and UV protect?

3. Soft spot in the floor running from the sink to dinette seat (6 inches by 3 feet). Yes, I've seen the floor issues in forum searching ... Can this be a small problem that will stay put or will the soft spot grow into a monster?

Right now, there are no leaks or signs of leaks inside or underneath. However, I don't want to think everything is AOK if we can prevent future problems.

We've looked over the woes of R-Vision and still feel good about spending $6800 on a 2005 trailer where 'everything works' and looks really nice. Or maybe the sky IS falling ... hmmm.

Thx for helping!!


zul

2005 Trail Cruiser QB23

[hddecker]

qmrichardson wrote:
I use a stick that is shaped like a big Y, and it leads me to the water.

I used to use on of those too, but it broke, so I got the meter.

[hddecker]

dcason wrote:
hddecker...speak to me on that moisture meter thingy...brand? cost?

Mine is a General No. 329, it looks exactly like this one.

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/ProductDisplay/globalProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=WWG1UG80

I have had it for so long I can't remeber what I paid for it. I originaly bought it to check the moisture content of my fire wood, but it has sure saved me a lot of headaches when I walked away from TTs that had problems.

[qmrichardson]

I use a stick that is shaped like a big Y, and it leads me to the water.

[dcason]

hddecker...speak to me on that moisture meter thingy...brand? cost?

[hddecker]

A moisture meter is an RVers best friend.

Get one and use it to check everything from the floor to the ceiling. When you are checking walls and ceilings try to use an area where the pin holes left by the probes can not be seen.

Using a moisture meter when looking at TTs, saved me many headaches. The first thing I would do is check the ceiling, walls and areas around the sinks and shower.

As soon as the needle bumped we were out of there and on to the next candidate. Only when we found a unit that showed no moisture in structure did we look at a floor plan.

I use the meter every 3-4 months just to make sure that I am not getting a problem that has not shown signs yet. To fix the problems when they are small.

[TomG2]

To the OP's comment about the soft flooring, I offer some hope. My lightweight Rockwood had a similar condition in the high traffic areas. I simply cut a piece of half inch composite board which I used as an overlay. It was as good two years later as when I discovered the problem. I removed the board when I sold it and it was as good as could be expected.

[RedRocket204]

zul wrote:
Where and hw would the tape be used? Looks like u need to scrape to bare bones for the tape?

For the best job, you would remove the Dicor, thoroughly clean the area and then apply the Eternabond tape. If applied right, that should last the life of the roof.

zul wrote:
From the pic of the vent... should I remove the old caulk or fill the cracks in the old? It looks super hard to remove the old wo screwing up the rubber roof. Eek!

Use the self-leveling Dicor over the existing and cleaned Dicor caulk filling all the holes, cracks and areas you believe may be subject to causing a leak. This is something you should consider doing about once a year and would be standard maintenance. Inspect all areas on the roof where there is existing Dicor caulking and fill as needed.

Another area of maintenance to be very concerned with, repacking your wheel hubs. This is also something that is recommended once a year but every other year is probably completely fine. Last thing you want is extra heat generated to cause a tire blow out. If the Dicor was needing caulk, chances are the previous owner did not service the wheel hubs too.

zul wrote:
On a other note... I live in sedona and we have many new trails built by hand. Lots of natural lines on natural sandstone.... sweet stuff. The travel trailer will lead me to zion for canyoneering and salida co as monarch crest has topped my wish list for too long..


PS I guide sedona all winter on mtb. Will guide for beer.

Nice! I need to make a trip back to Sedona but I desperately want to hit Zion as well as Bryce. Then there is Moab and Fruita...the list goes on. At least I am only about 2 hours drive from Salida and we are planning on doing MC in about 2 weeks. This week Rio de Janeiro, next week Aruba (for work) then home and to Salida. My family is not going to know who I am.

[zul]

Great advice. Glad to hear it maybe all general maintenance. .. just ordered a few tubes of dicor caulk. Where and hw would the tape be used? Looks like u need to scrape to bare bones for the tape?

From the pic of the vent... should I remove the old caulk or fill the cracks in the old? It looks super hard to remove the old wo screwing up the rubber roof. Eek!

On a other note... I live in sedona and we have many new trails built by hand. Lots of natural lines on natural sandstone.... sweet stuff. The travel trailer will lead me to zion for canyoneering and salida co as monarch crest has topped my wish list for too long..


PS I guide sedona all winter on mtb. Will guide for beer.

[RedRocket204]

^^^ yup. You are dealing with normal maintenance items. It actually looks like the previous owner never recaulked with Dicor and from your 3 pictures, saw no signs of Eternabond being used. You may want to consider buying a 4" roll of Eternabond to cover the front bead of Dicor caulking. I would not worry about the small delam bubbles that already exist, just make sure to stop any and all potential leaks from making it worse. Already said but that vent desperately needs Dicor asap. When you do apply Dicor or Eternabond, follow the directions to a tee and make sure you properly clean the area where you are applying.

Now to the better questions. I got mesmerized by all of the MTBing photos. Are most or all of those pictures from northern AZ? Looks like some very good technical trails you went on. I've MTB in and around Sedona but never found a spot like that and of course I was there about 15 years ago when I was living in Phoenix.

I've been stuck in Brazil for work, hehe only a week so far but will be two weeks total, and I am jonesen to go and ride. Bought a Yeti SB95 about a year ago and right now its just sitting in my basement with me in another continent. The bike has seen a good amount of miles on trails in CO though so it is not just collecting dust. 🙂

I need to go ride and your pictures made it worse 😉

I am trying to go ride Monarch Crest before the weather changes. If you are not familiar with MC, give it a look online at IMBA.

[fla-gypsy]

My EPDM roof maker recommends against coating the roof. I know there are different makers and recommendations but I only wash mine about once a year and check/reapply the sealant as needed. the chalking of the roof material that was left on your fingers is normal wear. Keeping it sealed well with the Dicor lap sealant is critical as it cracks over time. From the pics you supplied the sealant and roof area that has pulled loose needs to be addressed immediately. BTW, these are items I consider routine maintenance.

[Farm_Camp]

qmrichardson wrote:
... but after you wash it, treat it. It can benefit from some sunscreen as much as anything. I highly recommend a good thick coating of this stuff once a year.

This may not matter in a 05 camper... The dealer that sold me my new camper said to do the same thing. However when I was going through all the materials and documents that came with my camper I found a slip of paper from the manufacturer of the roofing material on my roof that said basically "Just wash it with something like Spic and Span". And... " Using UV protectant/cleansers will not help and may damage your roof"...

So having conflicting info from the dealer and the roofing material manufacturer's document - I e-mailed the factory and ask the question... Their reply was fairly cryptic but said basically to do what the roofing manufacturer said... LOL... So OP if you can - try to find out what your roofing material is and if you can do that - then do what they say to do as far as care and feeding of your roofing material.

[qmrichardson]

I'm with you. I think the previous owner saw the delam and sealed it up real good after the fact. As long as everything is sealed good, you shouldn't have to worry about further damage. Repairing water damaged delamination is very expensive if done properly, so I wouldn't bother on an 05 trailer unless it really bothers you. The chalk on the rubber roof is normal oxidation from the sun and weather, but after you wash it, treat it. It can benefit from some sunscreen as much as anything. I highly recommend a good thick coating of this stuff once a year.

[Farm_Camp]

hvac wrote:
When I read this it just ticks me off, another taken in by traditional rv construction. I feel your pain, let it be known if any wood is used in your rig, in anyway, then this WILL HAPPEN.

Even Airstream has a huge problem with soft floors. Its time for a revolution in the industry to combat such poor construction methods. Alternatives are in place and no need to reinvent the wheel.

Ok... But with all due respect I must gently point out that the OP owns the unit already and needs help in the here and now. I know a lot of folks here can at least get OP pointed in the right direction. The rest is water under the bridge - so to speak - at this point.

[westend]

zul wrote:

Farm Camp wrote:
Pic Clicky

Is that the seem where the roof meets the sidewall?

.

Yes. Most of the rubber roof top tucks into the sidewall rail pretty well. This is one spot (about 3-4 inches long) where it is coming out a bit.

Basic Silicon caulk? Some sites say to not use Silicon only special RV Roof caulk. Is there something at a regular ACE or off to a special RV shop?

Never use any silicone on your RV. The go-to sealants for your rubber roof are Dicor (a caulk) and Eternabond tape. Yes, that roof area where it is separated needs to be sealed, as does any cracked or missing caulk. Dicor is sold through RV service places like Camping World. Eternabond tape is sold through some roofing distributors and both are available at a host of online sellers.
Another good selant, especially for vertical seams like around windows, doors, and corner seams is Geocel Tripolymer, either Proflex or Geocel 2600. You might find one of them at a lumberyard or roofing distributor.