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Traveling in Cold Weather

87bob
Explorer
Explorer
We are thinking of making a winter trip from our home in Indanpolis to Florida. It would probably be in the middle of February. With winter time tempatures below freezing if I drained the fresh water tank and left the heat on would I be ok? Or do I need to winterize everything before we go and then again before we come back. Our TT is stored in a heated barn, so we drain and flush everything in the fall before it goes in the barn. I guess one thing I'm not sure of is the furnace operation. Will it operate only on 12 volts and LPG while driving?
13 REPLIES 13

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
We winterize and leave it that way until we get somewhere warm. Usually only takes a couple days to do that. In the meantime we carry 5 gallons of water in a container. Use that to flush the toilet, wash and cooking. Even if the little bit in the gray or black tanks freezes it won't hurt anything as there is plenty of room to expand. Been doing it this way for years.

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Timtation wrote:
CavemanCharlie wrote:
I would blow the lines out. It's easy to do. Then do it again on your way back.

As for your furnace, if you only have one 12 volt battery like most TT's have and the furnace is running constantly as you go down the road you will drain the battery quickly and then have no heat anyway.

Hook up your trailer connector and the TV will charge the battery and provide 12VDC to the fan. BUT, the heat losses due to wind will probably empty the tanks pretty quickly.


The Tow Vehicle does indeed have a charge wire going to the battery. But, it's a small wire and just a trickle charge. It might keep up, or it might not. The furnace fan draws a lot of currant .

Timtation
Explorer
Explorer
CavemanCharlie wrote:
I would blow the lines out. It's easy to do. Then do it again on your way back.

As for your furnace, if you only have one 12 volt battery like most TT's have and the furnace is running constantly as you go down the road you will drain the battery quickly and then have no heat anyway.

Hook up your trailer connector and the TV will charge the battery and provide 12VDC to the fan. BUT, the heat losses due to wind will probably empty the tanks pretty quickly.

Benjim
Explorer
Explorer
WNYBob wrote:
I would winterize twice, cost of rv antifreeze is a lot less than cleanup of frozen pipes or replacing a hot water tank.


X2
2014 Arctic Fox 27 5L Fifth Wheel
2013.8 Ram Larimie 3500 HD 4X4 Asin, Transfer Flow 50 gal Max Flo auxiliary Tank, PullRite Superglide

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would blow the lines out. It's easy to do. Then do it again on your way back.

As for your furnace, if you only have one 12 volt battery like most TT's have and the furnace is running constantly as you go down the road you will drain the battery quickly and then have no heat anyway.

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
WNYBob wrote:
I would winterize twice, cost of rv antifreeze is a lot less than cleanup of frozen pipes or replacing a hot water tank.


X2
Wisconsin to Florida. Winterize the entire RV.
Added a porta-pottie cassette placed right next to RV toilet. The new porta ones are identical to an RV one. I just hate using public toilets. This setup works great to avoid using public restrooms on the way down.

Keep in mind the 'CG's will be closed' in the Midwest on the way down.

I did find the CG's visible from the interstates are open but with NO water hook ups. I used those CG's all the way down no problem. You can dump your porta-pottie there and use the showers because the bathrooms are always heated and they leave that water on to them.

I got anxious and when I hit Kentucky I de-winterized only to have my hose freeze and it blew apart my water filter to smithereens the first night I stayed in that CG.! Take note Kentucky is NOT far enough south to dewinterize! :W

Since then the RV stays winterized until I hit my destination in Florida. Coming back I winterize at one of my favorite CG's when I hit just above the Georgia line in Perry . Then when back at home all I have to do is park it.

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
87...

I suggest you go ahead an winterize, even if you are in a heated barn. We live near Anderson and have been to Florida over Christmas week 2 years in a row now. And this year, in March again, and planning another Florida trip this December again.

We do not park in a barn, so have to winterize October-November time frame.

Running with the furnace on not would depend upon how fast you can get out of the snow belt. When we make the trip, we plan the first night somewhere in Tennessee, Georgia, or Northern Alabama. We usually get a motel the first night as we are still in the freeze zone. The second night we are finally far enough South, we stay in a campground with full hook-up and dewinterize then. The third night we are at our destination.

Coming back, if we decide to drive straight through, we'll winterize again in Florida. If we take 2 days coming back, we plan a stop before hitting the snow range again. Basically, if a campground is open and water is available, you are safe to winterize, unwinterize at that location.

I would not trust the on-board furnace to keep your water lines and tanks from freezing up when driving. Anything could cause the furnace to go out and you'd never know it. The last thing you want is your trip ruined having to replace pipes.

At least, blow your lines out, if nothing else.

Another thing to consider is Indiana weather. You live here, you know what the winters are like. In February, we could have 3 feet of snow on the ground, and we could have 60 degree weather! The risk in planning a trip FROM Indiana is not knowing if you'll be snowed IN and can't even get out your drive way! Not to mention what the conditions of the roads may be.

A few years ago, we planned a trip to Norfolk, Virgina in March. The morning we planned on leaving, Indiana got hit with a blizzard! We left anyway, and the blizzard followed us all the way to the top of the Smokey Mountains. Once we crested the top, we got out of the snow. We could drive only about 25 mph the whole trip. It was the LONGEST trip we ever made. But we did it. My daughter was getting married. She was stationed at Norfolk, so we HAD to get there, no matter what it took. Yes, we towed the trailer. It was no fun.

All I'm suggesting to you is, winterize your camper and don't depend upon heat. It cost so very little to winterize, and blowing lines costs nothing, and the prevention could save a LOT of headache and aggravation and misery fixing frozen pipes or tanks on your camper.

If your camper has the "Artic Package" on it, from all I heard and read about them, that is basically worthless. The furnace may be blowing heat between the under belly and the floor of your camper, but that heat is escaping as fast as it blows in.

Contrary to popular belief, once insulation get's cold, it's just as cold on both side of it. All it does is slow the process of heat transferring from one side to the other. If heat stops on one side of the insulation, eventually cold will penetrate. It only slows the process down, and only if there is a constant heat source on the other side of the insulation. So, when traveling, if the furnace goes out, it's still just a matter of time till the cold get's to everything. You can only hope to get to warmer weather before it happens. For me, that's just too risky.

Here again, winterize, or at least blow out the lines. Then you REALLY have nothing to worry about, furnace or not!

87bob
Explorer
Explorer
Dick_B wrote:
From Indianapolis to Florida you might get away with not winterizing on the way down. You just have to watch the night time temps. Ditto on the way back.
BTW, have you ever lost heat in the barn?
We do that trip from Chicago late December and come back the first week in February and winterize before each trip.


No, it is a insulated, forced air, gas heat furnace, metal pole barn. It has two furnaces so if one went out I could open the door between them and keep them from freezing.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Then fire 'er up and hit the road.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

87bob
Explorer
Explorer
The belly is completely sealed.. Any openings have been sealed with foam insulation.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
87bob wrote:
.. the furnace operation. Will it operate only on 12 volts and LPG while driving?
Yes. It always operates on 12v and lpg.

A lot depends on the placement of the water pipes (the most vulnerable to freezing). I've towed in below freezing weather with the furnace on, but all my water pipes are in heated spaces.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Dick_B
Explorer
Explorer
From Indianapolis to Florida you might get away with not winterizing on the way down. You just have to watch the night time temps. Ditto on the way back.
BTW, have you ever lost heat in the barn?
We do that trip from Chicago late December and come back the first week in February and winterize before each trip.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)

WNYBob
Explorer
Explorer
I would winterize twice, cost of rv antifreeze is a lot less than cleanup of frozen pipes or replacing a hot water tank.