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Trouble installing new hitch

RDMueller
Explorer
Explorer
I needed to upgrade my hitch in preparation for the new TT I'm planning to buy, so I purchased a Class V from Curt Mfg that the website said was compatible with my truck. In attempting to install it, I found that although the holes line up, the hitch will not bolt up flat against the frame. This is because the frame on my truck has a lip or round out (see pic) that interferes with hitch.

I spoke with Curt tech support and they told me that sometimes same make/model/year trucks will have different frames. He said that apparently the Dodge Ram they tested with this hitch had the flat bottom frame as opposed to the frame with the "round out."

He said they would take it back, no problem, but if I wanted to make it work, I could grind the frame slightly to get the hitch to fit. He also said I could use up to 1/2" of spacers (putting space between the hitch and frame) if needed. I tried the spacers and it gets pretty close, but not quite. Using 3/4" of spacers would totally clear the round out, but that is more than they approve and I'd need to get longer bolts. I think with 1/2" worth of spacers and a very small amount of grinding it would work.

Frankly I really would rather not return the hitch if I can make it work because I'd be right back at square one trying to select a new hitch plus once it comes in, it might not fit either. Also, this would probably delay me at least a weak or more.

On the other hand, I have to say, even though they claim it is fine to grind the frame, I'm not thrilled about the idea. My question is whether this is something that is often done when installing a hitch. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.





Rob and Julie
2015 Forest River Wildwood 28DBUD
2001 Dodge Ram 2500, 24V Cummins 5.9
12 REPLIES 12

ROBERTSUNRUS
Explorer
Explorer
RDMueller wrote:
Interestingly a Drawtite hitch is what was installed on the truck when I bought it. However it was only rated for 5000/500 weight carrying and 8000/800 WD, which was just a little shy of what I needed.

In any case, I spoke with Curt tech support again this morning and they suggested that since I only needed about 1/4" more to clear the lip on the frame that I use a portapower to very slightly spread the verticals on the hitch. I asked if there was any chance of that weakening the hitch and he said absolutely not. I also asked if I tried that and it went bad, would they still take it back. He said yes. So I did it, and success. It bolted right up perfectly. No shims, no grinding. All done and I'm a happy camper!



🙂 Hi, great; Fixed, now go camping. We love happy endings. :B
🙂 Bob 🙂
2005 Airstream Safari 25-B
2000 Lincoln Navigator
2014 F-150 Ecoboost
Equal-i-zer
Yamaha 2400

RDMueller
Explorer
Explorer
Interestingly a Drawtite hitch is what was installed on the truck when I bought it. However it was only rated for 5000/500 weight carrying and 8000/800 WD, which was just a little shy of what I needed.

In any case, I spoke with Curt tech support again this morning and they suggested that since I only needed about 1/4" more to clear the lip on the frame that I use a portapower to very slightly spread the verticals on the hitch. I asked if there was any chance of that weakening the hitch and he said absolutely not. I also asked if I tried that and it went bad, would they still take it back. He said yes. So I did it, and success. It bolted right up perfectly. No shims, no grinding. All done and I'm a happy camper!
Rob and Julie
2015 Forest River Wildwood 28DBUD
2001 Dodge Ram 2500, 24V Cummins 5.9

ROBERTSUNRUS
Explorer
Explorer
Brodie3Az wrote:
See the installation diagram for Drawtite at the clicky below.

clicky

The representation of the truck frame appears to be similar to your photo. I looked at the CURT installation instructions which only showed a basic C-channel frame.

This set of instructions is what came up for the 12,000 rated class III/IV receiver.

I would suggest you call and talk to Drawtite about your specific situation.



🙂 Hi, this looks like a proper cure for you.
🙂 Bob 🙂
2005 Airstream Safari 25-B
2000 Lincoln Navigator
2014 F-150 Ecoboost
Equal-i-zer
Yamaha 2400

Brodie3Az
Explorer
Explorer
See the installation diagram for Drawtite at the clicky below.

clicky

The representation of the truck frame appears to be similar to your photo. I looked at the CURT installation instructions which only showed a basic C-channel frame.

This set of instructions is what came up for the 12,000 rated class III/IV receiver.

I would suggest you call and talk to Drawtite about your specific situation.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
ROBERTSUNRUS wrote:
🙂 Hi, why Mickey Mouse it, find and buy a hitch that fits right. No shims, no spacers, and no grinding.


X2, no Mickey Mouse anyone can do that! :S

Get a hitch correctly designed for your truck.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

RDMueller
Explorer
Explorer
Brodie3Az wrote:
Auto manufacturers are continuously making model year changes, so in that regards, it is entirely possible that the frame changed.

When Chrysler and Cummins originally negotiated the deal, Cummins required that the frame be designed by them and not allow the frame design to be dictated by the Chrysler bean counters. It was reported that Cummins was concerned about frame twist. Therefore as others have recommended, do not cut or grind on the frame.

There is no reason why you cannot shim. This is a process used in a wide range of assembly and refurbishment situations.

Shopping for a hitch that "Might" fit without shimming or grinding will require a lot of time and effort without positive results. You will most likely incurr added costs for shipping and restocking.

Are there other trucks of your model year in your area? possibly you could check with their owner(s) so that you can see their frame and hitch brand.

Another option might be to loosen the bolts on the cross tube assembly to see if your frame mount legs will shift out and up tight to the bottom of the frame. Then torque the tube bolts down.


Yea, I'm with you on grinding. Even though it's only at the very back and would be a small amount, I just don't feel good about it. Shimming was recommended by the Curt rep, but only up to 1/2" and that doesn't quite do it. It will work with 3/4" worth if shims, but I'm going against their advice and would need longer bolts.

Then that's a whole new issue - bolts. I'm sure the bolts are special high strength bolts. I'm not just going to run down to Home Depot and buy some lag bolts that fit! I'm sure that Curt provides appropriate bolts that meet a certain criteria. If I go looking for my own bolts, who really knows what is required?
Rob and Julie
2015 Forest River Wildwood 28DBUD
2001 Dodge Ram 2500, 24V Cummins 5.9

Brodie3Az
Explorer
Explorer
Auto manufacturers are continuously making model year changes, so in that regards, it is entirely possible that the frame changed.

When Chrysler and Cummins originally negotiated the deal, Cummins required that the frame be designed by them and not allow the frame design to be dictated by the Chrysler bean counters. It was reported that Cummins was concerned about frame twist. Therefore as others have recommended, do not cut or grind on the frame.

There is no reason why you cannot shim. This is a process used in a wide range of assembly and refurbishment situations.

Shopping for a hitch that "Might" fit without shimming or grinding will require a lot of time and effort without positive results. You will most likely incurr added costs for shipping and restocking.

Are there other trucks of your model year in your area? possibly you could check with their owner(s) so that you can see their frame and hitch brand.

Another option might be to loosen the bolts on the cross tube assembly to see if your frame mount legs will shift out and up tight to the bottom of the frame. Then torque the tube bolts down.

ROBERTSUNRUS
Explorer
Explorer
🙂 Hi, why Mickey Mouse it, find and buy a hitch that fits right. No shims, no spacers, and no grinding.
🙂 Bob 🙂
2005 Airstream Safari 25-B
2000 Lincoln Navigator
2014 F-150 Ecoboost
Equal-i-zer
Yamaha 2400

PRodacy
Explorer
Explorer
Shim and bolt. The lip on the frame provides a lot of the strength.
2012 GMC 3500 dually 4x4
2006 OKanagan 90W
2003 Jeep Rubicon, modified for off road performance

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I'd shim and bolt her down.

Houston_Remodel
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't grind the frame as that lip is part of the strength of the frame.

Shimming is a much better idea.
2015 Starcraft Launch 24RLS
2014 Ram 2500 diesel 4x4
Guarded by 2 Jack Russells

jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
on edit... I'd shim.
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control

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