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Truck Trailer pulg Charge Wire?

Big-wheel
Explorer
Explorer
I am wondering what the volts should be to the trailer plug aux charge wire?

The truck is a 2000 F-250 powerstroke and we haul a truck camper on it and trying to figure out if the truck is sending a enough power back to charge the batteries while the truck is running. Or is there another setup that I sould look at running to keep the batteries charged while the truck is running?

Thanks
13 REPLIES 13

drc5900
Explorer
Explorer
My charge wire via the trailer connector gave way too much voltage drop.

Installed #2 gauge wire (as others above suggested), now voltage drop from truck batteries to camper batteries is practically zero, now the 2 camper batteries get properly charged when I drive.
I ran double wire between truck and camper batts, for both positive and negative, in order to eliminate any bad ground.
On the positive #2 gauge wire I installed breakers at both the truck batteries and the camper batteries.
Installed a solenoid so the camper batteries won't drain the truck batteries when the engine is not running.

Been running like this for 3 years, works great.

In future will install solar PV for when I stay somewhere longer time with no hookup.
1997 Dodge Ram Cummins 3500 Dually 5.9L Turbo Diesel, Billeted Goerend Auto Tranny & Triple Disk Torque Converter w/Manual Lockup, 3.5 axle ratio.
1992 Jayco Jay Hunter 950, w/Homemade: tiedowns/dually jack adapters/long hitch, Hott-Rod, 700W inverter.

Big-wheel
Explorer
Explorer
Awesome thanks that what I was wanting to know.

Carb_Cleaner
Explorer
Explorer
ticki2 wrote:
This link from the TCU may help
Matthew_B, Alternator Charge Cable Installation to TC

Linky no worky.
Try THIS.
Nice thread.
'13 F250XL SC gas 4x4 8', Camper & Plow packages, StableLoads, LT285/65R-18 Goodyear Wrangler A/T Adventure, 18x9 Ultra Motorsports "Phantom" wheels
'12 Wolf Creek 850 TC Coleman Polar Cub 9.2k A/C, 90 watt solar, dual propane & batteries, Maggie Rack

ticki2
Explorer
Explorer
This link from the TCU may help
Matthew_B, Alternator Charge Cable Installation to TC
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Old_Days
Explorer II
Explorer II
Some day I will install solar, but for now the dual battery setup under the hood seems to work. This my be a option for you to add one more deep cycle battery.

gpascazio
Explorer
Explorer
I had this same issue, on my 2008 Ford F350 DRW. Our TC is an EC1160. When we first got the TC I noticed that the batteries were not getting fully charged. Did some tests and determined that the voltage at the back of the truck was at 13.4V. This was enough to keep the batteries charged but not enough to fully charge the batteries. Since, we like to boondock this was limiting our stay to a couple of days. at that point we would have to find a site with electrical to fully charge the batteries. My solution was to change out all interior lights to LEDs, stop running the electric jacks when we are boondocking and finally installing 300W of solar power. The solar did the trick now by noon the batteries are on float charge. Now what limits our boondocking is the size of the grey water tank.
2008 Ford F350 dually
6.4 L Diesel
2010 Eagle Cap 1160
300 W of Solar Panels

dadwolf2
Explorer
Explorer
MikeJinCO wrote:
I don't review my posts very well prior to posting, sorry about the misspelling.


Happeens to the best of us. I was going to correct you sense I never make misteaks, but decidded not to in case it ever happens to me! :B
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD,4X4,NV5600
2014 Adventurer 86FB

cewillis
Explorer
Explorer
You should have very nearly the same as you alternator output voltage, which would be a little over 14v steady state. If not, but if you do have some voltage, you probably need bigger wire. I use 2 gauge.
Cal

Teamfour
Explorer
Explorer
If you are having issues with the TV not maintaining the TT batts, make sure you have the fuse and relay for the trailer charging circuit installed in the fuse box under the hood.
Lee and Anne


2016 F250 2WD CC SB XLT 6.2 3.73 locker, 3,295 Payload
2014 Salem Hemisphere 282RK 7.8k lbs loaded, Equal-i-zer WDH

MikeJinCO
Explorer
Explorer
I don't review my posts very well prior to posting, sorry about the misspelling.

MikeJinCO
Explorer
Explorer
I think you should have at least 13.2x and probably 13.8v and the battery equalizing charge my solar controller puts out for a short period every day is 14.4v but I don't know if the alternator and converter/chargers do that. The voltage gage on the truck really only gives an indication that the alternator is working, accuracy is not a feature.

To change subject slightly, how does one go about running this heavy gauge wire? On my Ford there is a 30 amp isolator fuse, but getting into that wire might be rather difficult, then you have to run separate wire to the camper rather than the 6 or 7 wire cable normally used and then the wire inside the camber will probably be a lighter gauge also if you use the normal camper plug. Can you run straight to the batteries?

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
The charge wire can keep the battery charged but will take a long time to charge a depleted battery. Once the battery is charged the voltage at it should be almost exactly the same as that of the truck battery when the truck is running. Fords automatically disconnect from the RV battery when the ign. is off.

Super_Dave
Explorer
Explorer
Big-wheel, there is enough charge to give you a partial charge while traveling. Folks that want a stronger charge run HD wire to eliminate loss in resistance.
Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
Rig: 2018 Big Country 3155 RLK
Boat: 21' North River Seahawk