Truck upgrade?

[hikingst1ck]

Hi, looking for some advice from the experts, we have a 2021 Chevy 1500 Custom. It’s the 2.4L 4-cylinder turbo. It’s rated to tow 9,300 and we’ve been towing our 5,000lb TT with it. It does ok around IL where we live, it’s nice and flat.

We recently took it about 1,000 miles to SD and it seemed to struggle a bit with the hills along I-90, specifically around the Missouri River and the black hills. Several times I just had to slow down and by the time we topped the hill we only doing about 50mph. We were getting passed like were standing still.

We’ve been talking about trading for either a 1/2 ton with a v8 or a 3/4 ton (which is a bit out of our price range but we do love the TT). If we’re going to take long trips out west or east for that matter what will tow it comfortably?

[jimh406]

I would consider a tune assuming there is one available. It will help with the shifting at the right time even with only a minimal HP gain.

Also, are you using premium? I don’t know if it is recommended for your engine, but many newer engines can make use of the premium. You could switch to premium only in more/steeper hills or more elevation while towing.

The turbo will actually help in the mtns like Montana. Our valley floor is around 3000 ft. The passes are quite a bit higher.

In summary, I’d look to a tune to help with shifting at the right time, use tow/haul, and run Premium if it is a fuel recommended for your engine while towing in more difficult situations.

[Gdetrailer]

Colbymac, welcome!

Might wish to have Mods separate your post into a new thread which would make more sense than piggybacking onto someone elses..

I will say, you should have the 3valve 5.4 which should have at least 300 HP which from my own experiences with a 97, then 2003, and 2006 F250s which are about 1,000 lbs heavier than F150s of the same yrs you should have very little issues with 5400 lbs worth of trailer. I towed 26ft TT when loaded was 6500 lbs and the 06 300HP 5.4 handled that very well.

You won't win any hole shot races at the stop lights but it will pull nicely.

100K miles on those engines is not a problem, had our 03 5.4 go 240K miles before I sold that one and the engine still was running strong. The 3V versions, you do have the possibility of the cam phasers going bad and/or the timing chain tensioners having issues, make sure you change your oil on severe usage schedule when towing to make sure you have fresh oil all the time which helps the tensioners and the cam phasers (they use the engine oil pressure to activate them).

[Colbymac]

Hi everyone! I'm new to the travel trailer life and my wife and I are about to purchase our first. We currently have an 2006 Ford F-150 5.4 Lariat Triton engine. Not that it matters but its always been garaged and very well cared for with 104K miles on it and is not a daily driver. The TT were looking at is a 23' cabin (~28' total length) with a dry weight of 5400lbs. Having not towed a TT before, I am looking for advice/assurance that this truck will handle it!

[joshuajim]

I wouldn’t worry about the RPM. The engineers test these engines at redline RPM for hours and even days at a time. The set the redline at a safe value from those tests. In addition, the ECU will not let you exceed the redline.

Just hammer it!

[hikingst1ck]

Thank you all for the responses - it really helped my comfort level with the truck's capabilities. We're going to stick with this truck for now and we now have some things to try and best of all we know what to expect when we hit those grades.

In a few years when we're really ready to upgrade we'll definitely do our homework and figure out what the best options are at that point. Hopefully the current shortages will be long in the rearview mirror by then.

In the meantime, thank you all!! This has got to be one of the most helpful groups I've ever encountered.

[philh]

This isn't the best time to buy a new truck. Prices are climbing off the map... if you can find one.

I've watched OEM's testing engines at redline, those engines were screaming.

[kellem]

The 5.3 Chevy is certainly a great engine but stay away from the 4L60E transmission, I've been through 4 of them, yes 4.

[Bionic_Man]

As others have said, higher RPMs isn’t a bad thing. The engine Is just getting into its power band. It certainly isn’t going to hurt it.

If you’re looking for an excuse to upgrade your truck, here is your chance. If you’re concerned about longevity of what you have and you don’t really want to upgrade, there is no reason you have to with your current trailer.

If you decide to upgrade and stay in a 1500, I’d skip the 5.3 V8. The perceived work (high RPM will be just as bad in that truck). Go 6.2 if you are staying with GM. If you really want to avoid the high RPM, your best bet is switching to Ford and going with the EcoBoost. I use an Expedition MAX to tow my 7000 pound boat, and it virtually never is running above 4000 RPMs.

[valhalla360]

Grit dog wrote:

hikingst1ck wrote:

The truck isn't my daily driver. Other than pulling the TT it's only driven when I've got stuff that won't fit in or is too dirty for the back of the CRV.

That's a nice new truck to have for only camping trips and home improvement duties.
Seems your only real "issue" was having to wind 'er up to climb hills. Presumably you feel the chassis handled the trailer fine (which it should).

I don't think you'll take much hit, if any, selling your truck. Especially if you got it for anything under MSRP. Truck prices are nuts right now.
But that translates to cost of whatever you replace it with.

If your happy otherwise, I'd just keep it. If going with a gas truck as a replacement, save for a 3.5 EcoBoost, or a deep geared new Ram or Ford 3/4 ton, everything else will actually be lacking a bit in the HP department if you get into real high altitude towing out west. You lose 3% power approx per 1000 ft elevation increase on naturally aspirated engines.

Translation, bigger NA gassers will give you some more power East of the Rockies. Trips through the Western mountains will level the playing field though.

If you're set on a new or almost new truck and value warranty, new truck features and low miles, then IMO, I'd stick with what you have.

My personal perspective, I'd buy something older (sub 10 year old range, 50-75k miles) with a big engine in the size and configuration you want and lower overall capital expense.

While I disagree with it being a great idea to skip the WDH (they do more than help support the hitch weight)...if the truck is solely for towing, I do agree, that you might check what the dealer will give you right now. I wouldn't be surprised if you get the full purchase price back. Then you could get a 3/4ton which while not necessary for this trailer does give you a bit of room to increase trailer size...a 6-10yr old 3/4 ton with the bigger V8 will likely be much cheaper and help keep RPM more manageable.

[hikingst1ck]

Grit dog wrote:
Regarding up sizing to a HD truck. There are advantages like zero need for a wdh for most travel trailers (if you can get over the RVer mantra that those contraptions are somehow a requirement regardless of the tow rig).
What you won't gain is much if anything in the power department vs the big V8 1/2 tons and Eco Boost (6.2 GM, 5.7 Hemi and 3.5 EcoB will all pull about the same as the 3/4 ton gassers).

Bottom line, unless personal preference or skepticism about the longevity of the 2.7, your truck already does most of what the bigger engines does and the rest of the truck is the same.

Thanks for the post with your experience and feedback. I can't wait to get back out to Montana and visit Glacier NP again!

I think since we've already got this truck in the garage we stick with it for now. Even though I'd love to forego the WDH and have the extra capacity of a 3/4 ton, it's probably not necessary to take on the extra cost at this point (plus like you said they're at a premium right now). I don't have any reason to think the 2.7L won't last awhile, especially since it gets used pretty sparingly.

[Grit_dog]

hikingst1ck wrote:

The truck isn't my daily driver. Other than pulling the TT it's only driven when I've got stuff that won't fit in or is too dirty for the back of the CRV.

That's a nice new truck to have for only camping trips and home improvement duties.
Seems your only real "issue" was having to wind 'er up to climb hills. Presumably you feel the chassis handled the trailer fine (which it should).

I don't think you'll take much hit, if any, selling your truck. Especially if you got it for anything under MSRP. Truck prices are nuts right now.
But that translates to cost of whatever you replace it with.

If your happy otherwise, I'd just keep it. If going with a gas truck as a replacement, save for a 3.5 EcoBoost, or a deep geared new Ram or Ford 3/4 ton, everything else will actually be lacking a bit in the HP department if you get into real high altitude towing out west. You lose 3% power approx per 1000 ft elevation increase on naturally aspirated engines.

Translation, bigger NA gassers will give you some more power East of the Rockies. Trips through the Western mountains will level the playing field though.

If you're set on a new or almost new truck and value warranty, new truck features and low miles, then IMO, I'd stick with what you have.

My personal perspective, I'd buy something older (sub 10 year old range, 50-75k miles) with a big engine in the size and configuration you want and lower overall capital expense.

[hikingst1ck]

@dodge_guy - I do need to get everything weighed.

The truck isn't my daily driver. Other than pulling the TT it's only driven when I've got stuff that won't fit in or is too dirty for the back of the CRV.

[hikingst1ck]

@2112, MitchF150 & valhalla360 - Thank you! I try to cruise a couple MPH slower than the speed limit so I can stay out of the left lane as much as possible which keeps us near what most semis are doing.

I really appreciate ALL of the advice! You all have calmed my nerves about it and we'll stick with what we've got for now.

Next time we're out we'll hit the scales first and I'll experiment with getting a running start when we approach those hills. Sounds like it's mostly experience and since this was our first long road trip with it, we were out of our comfort zone and worried we were going to break something 🙂

[valhalla360]

hikingst1ck wrote:

I did almost always immediately back off after that 2nd shift it made that pushed it to the 4500-5000rpm range. I can just let it go as long as it's still within the range? It just sounds so wound up! It could be that with my normal driving habits my ears just aren't used to hearing the engine in my vehicle operating at 5K rpm 🙂 Slowing down is fine too, I'm not trying to set any records, just safely make it to the destination.

If you aren't in a rush, just get in line with the semis. That way, you aren't causing any problems and it's a more relaxing ride (keeps the wife happy too).

As 2112 suggested, on shorter up and down sections, play the hills speeding up near the end of a downgrade and let that speed gradually bleed off on the upgrade (presuming you aren't messing up traffic by doing so). That will allow you to hold a higher gear most of the time and keep the RPM down. Learn how much throttle you can give it before it wants to downshift and try to give it as much as you can without downshifting on the up hills (on longer hills, it will eventually downshift but you can minimize how often).