Underbelly removal help needed.

[firemedic1169]

I have a 2008 Springdale 267BH. I have developed a leak which I believe is coming from the waterlines under the floor. I crawled underneath and there is no obvious way to remove the underbelly. I'm inclined to just just cut it and figure out how to patch later as its going to take 4 weeks to get my camper into the nearest service center and I have multiple trips scheduled and need to fix this ASAP. Does anyone have any experience and advise on this?

[firemedic1169]

ol' yeller wrote:
Water leaks seek out the lowest point to drain. The actual leak could be a long ways from where the water comes out. You may have to pressurize the system until it leaks and follow the water trail. Or if it is a drain, fill the tank. I'd also try both city and tank water systems. If you still have no source, then your problem is from the weather leaking to the inside. One other suggestion would be that the AC condensate is leaking inside but I'd think that would be apparent on the ceiling. Good luck!

Made an appointment today but they can't get me in until the 17th. put a fan on the wet spot to dry it out and with all the rain we have been getting this should tell me if its coming from the outside or if its from the water pipes as I'm not hooked up to water right now. There are no water marks on the ceiling so I don't think its the AC.

[ol__yeller]

Water leaks seek out the lowest point to drain. The actual leak could be a long ways from where the water comes out. You may have to pressurize the system until it leaks and follow the water trail. Or if it is a drain, fill the tank. I'd also try both city and tank water systems. If you still have no source, then your problem is from the weather leaking to the inside. One other suggestion would be that the AC condensate is leaking inside but I'd think that would be apparent on the ceiling. Good luck!

[firemedic1169]

So further investigating this, It appears my trailer does not have a traditional underbelly. It is a black mesh with insulation above it in about a 2-3"deep space. I cut away the mesh and insulation in the area that is we and there are no water pipes there so my initial diagnosis was wrong. I got up on the roof and found no apparent areas where water could be getting in. Now I'm baffled

[CampingN_C_]

CincyGus wrote:
I would suggest gorilla tape instead of eternabond. If the material is cleaned well before applying, gorilla tape will last and be a great solution.

X2
I did some major repairs on mine early last year and Gorilla tape has been holding fine since.

[CincyGus]

I would suggest gorilla tape instead of eternabond. If the material is cleaned well before applying, gorilla tape will last and be a great solution.

[You_can_t_take_]

firemedic1169 wrote:

skipnchar wrote:
I"ve seen the coroplast stapled, glued and screwed in place. If you know where you need to get to it may be easier to cut a working hole and piece the part you take out together again with Eternabond tape.

I'm beginning to think that this would be my easiest solution. I know exactly where I need to look and I can probably make due with a 1ft by 1ft hole then patch it back up.

Cut the hole on three sides only and use the 'front' side as a folded 'hinge'. That way when you tape it back up... even if the tape lets go you will have a 'flap' that tends to close while driving. It will also be easier to tape up since the cuts will line up and you can't lose it on the highway. Been there... done that.

[firemedic1169]

skipnchar wrote:
I"ve seen the coroplast stapled, glued and screwed in place. If you know where you need to get to it may be easier to cut a working hole and piece the part you take out together again with Eternabond tape.

I'm beginning to think that this would be my easiest solution. I know exactly where I need to look and I can probably make due with a 1ft by 1ft hole then patch it back up.

[skipnchar]

I"ve seen the coroplast stapled, glued and screwed in place. If you know where you need to get to it may be easier to cut a working hole and piece the part you take out together again with Eternabond tape.

[firemedic1169]

Doug33 wrote:
My dealer tech told me that I had to remove the underbelly material to get to the manual slideout crank. He said you needed to unscrew the material.

Do you have a Springdale? It seems every manufacturer does it a little different. There doesn't seem to be any screws that hold it in place. I tried pushing up on the underbelly where it lays on the metal cross-members where there are no screws and it is definitely attached by either a "sandwiched" method or adhesive.

[Doug33]

My dealer tech told me that I had to remove the underbelly material to get to the manual slideout crank. He said you needed to unscrew the material.

[firemedic1169]

It is the black mesh type. It seems to be glued or other wise attached to the top of the metal cross-members or maybe even sandwiched between the metal cross-members and something above. either way it does'nt appear to be as simpe as unscrewing or unbolting

[Dtaylor]

Does yours have the corrugated plastic or the mesh type material? Either way, you can cut it.
If you have the mesh like material, I would go back with the corrugated plastic (the stuff they use for signs)and you can get it in 4x8 sheets. It is simply screwed to the frame with big flat washers and self tapping screws.