underinflation

[rlocicero]

No one should recommend riding on underinflated tires. If affecta the side walls and promotes a build up of heat. If you want capacity, buy the tire for that. If you want a comfie ride, buy the tire for that. Otherwise be prepared to compromize.

[travelnutz]

Had 11 pickups for my business 1500's, 2500's, 2-3500's with the one being a DRW since the mid 70's and 2-3 replacement tires for each was done before they were finally sold. Always ran the tires at max inflation stated on the sidewalls. Have the written business records to prove it too! Most replacements were Michelins and some were US Royals, or Firestones after the OEM's of whatever. Usually the OEM's were US Royals on the GM's. Never had center wear on any but did have corner wear which comes from fast cornering.

Also had 5 personal pickups of 2500's, one being a 3500 DRW and still have. The '04.5 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC LB 4X4 which only has had Michelin 265/75/16 "E" tires after the Bridgestone OEM's were bald with steel showing on a couple at under 30K. All tires were at 80 psi always and never had center wear either. Even emailed closeup pics to "PerrysburgDodgeBoy" of this forum with the last 265 Michelin tires having over 93,000 on them and even tread wear and NO sidewall cracks as the lack of cracks is was what the pics were for and also showed the thread left.

Lower inflation scrubs and wears the outside edges of a tire when cornering because the tire rolls sideways with the lower inflation pressure on it's sidewalls reducing the support. To low and a sharp turn will roll the tire's bead right off the wheel rim. So obvious many of you posters have never been to a test track or must have slept thru the whole experience.

This is an RV'ing forum and not a grocery getter pickup forum. Perhaps some of you think the thousands of 18 wheelers driving unloaded every day let half the air out of their 18 tires after they drop off their loads. Nope, full inflation always and the tires wear even if you ever took the time to look or ask the driver about it. Do they need or want full inflation after dropping their 40,000 to 60,000 lb load? Ask them! Might get an education! They have the right tools (truck and suspension on the truck and in the cab) to do the job. Is it really any different than when you drop your RV unit of even 2,000 or 18,000 lbs off your pickup and bobtail for groceries etc?

[720Deere]

travelnutz wrote:
Hey Bozo, Those are minimum inflations for the load being carried not max! Who's old? DUH! Now roll over Spotless..

Trying to own somebody that just schooled you never works especially when you are wrong to begin with.

[rhagfo]

Running a trie rated for 3,415# at 80 psi means just that, if I had 6,830# on the rear I would run 80# of. I don't closer to 5,200# so I run at 75# still over inflated likely. When I drop the 5er I drop the pressure to between 45 and 50 psi nice rid even wear and no extra heat build up. Tires now day are radials they don't build heat like bias ply fires did. It is NOT one pressure fits all loads!

[AlmostAnOldGuy]

45Ricochet wrote:


You use Michelin's right?
Here's your chart.

I used to use the Michelin table when I had my Suburban, but the new rig has a TPMS that complains when I try to bring the inflation down. I have not had any luck trying to recalibrate. Now I ride overinflated most of the time resulting in a harsher ride and wearing down the center of the tread. Rats...

[travelnutz]

Hey Bozo, Those are minimum inflations for the load being carried not max! Who's old? DUH! Now roll over Spotless..

[45Ricochet]

travelnutz wrote:
Op is 100% right however, there are some trucks/brands that ride absolutely terrible with full tire inflation when not carrying or towing and people will underinflate to make the ride even bearable. Thus sacrificing handling characteristics, ability, safety, and of course tire tread life. I have to ask why would they even do this when there are better choices and so avoidable? Some vehicles even ride harsh and jolting when loaded! They'd made their choice and get the ride that comes with it and then use the band aid approach to solve the well known issues that are built it. DUH!

You use Michelin's right?
Here's your chart.

Any bozo should know how to use a Load and Inflation Table, even a GM guy. Oh wait, 80 PSI max! I know better mentally is getting old. Open your mind and learn new tricks Spot :W
Roll over boy, err speak Spot. Good boy!
Safe travels back home :B

[christopherglen]

Ohhh... those tires are only flat on the bottom..

[8iron]

Newer Ford F350 with Michelin LTX A/T2 (LT275/70R/18) recommended psi is 80# rear and 65# front. F250 with identical Michelin LTX A/T2 recommended psi is 65# front and back...TPMS of each vehicle is set for these varying parameters.

[rhagfo]

rlocicero wrote:
No one should recommend riding on underinflated tires. If affecta the side walls and promotes a build up of heat. If you want capacity, buy the tire for that. If you want a comfie ride, buy the tire for that. Otherwise be prepared to compromize.

Not true!
Running E rated tires at the CORRECT pressure for the load results in both smother ride and longer tire life.

[rhagfo]

downtheroad wrote:
Naw, I normally run my tires without inflating them. It saves chocking the wheels when I get to a campground....:)

ROFLOL@!!!!!!
I damn near spewed my beer!!!

[mich800]

Is this post an offshoot of another thread? Weird topic starter.

[gmcsmoke]

rlocicero wrote:
No one should recommend riding on underinflated tires. If affecta the side walls and promotes a build up of heat. If you want capacity, buy the tire for that. If you want a comfie ride, buy the tire for that. Otherwise be prepared to compromize.

[fj12ryder]

I guess it depends on what you're calling "underinflated". I've seen several charts that give recommendations for tire pressure depending on the load.

Or are you saying inflated to less than the recommended air pressure of the load on the tire?

[Volkov]

rlocicero wrote:
No one should recommend riding on underinflated tires. If affecta the side walls and promotes a build up of heat. If you want capacity, buy the tire for that. If you want a comfie ride, buy the tire for that. Otherwise be prepared to compromize.

My manual tells me to run the same tires front and rear and rotate them. How is it that when in front (which has a higher axle load empty) those tires are fine at 55psi, not the 80 max listed? During the entire winter I run my rears 55-60 and the handling is better than the 80 recommended for full load.
When I am loaded the rears are at the 80 psi needed for max payload and I would never underinflate them.