Upper Fridge vent blocked off...Why?

[buzter]

I recently purchased a 2013 Sprinter 316bik. It has a slide in the kitchen so the fridge is vented at the bottom (typical) and then it is vented thru the sidewall at the top, not thru the roof as it is on the slide. I took the cover off last night and there is a piece of tin mounted on the inside covering half the vent. Wondering why this is, it looks to be factory mounted as it is screwed in from the inside. Wouldn't it be better if vent was wide open?? Thanks for all input.

[brulaz]

My old trailer had an upper side exhaust like yours, but no baffle.

When things got hot outside, a vent van would start up to improve air flow within the compartment.

If I removed the outer plastic vent molding/cover the fan would usually stop (unless it was really hot). Ended up doing that a lot when boon-docking.

I also was able to pack in more insulation around the frig, especially on top. And put in a curved piece of sheet Al to help direct the air flow to the vent and away from dead space on top.

[buzter]

I see mine has factory fan installed

[Stars101]

YC 1 wrote:

Stars101 wrote:
The baffle should be enough on it's own and shouldn't require any fans.

So for anyone wanting to mod their fridge for better performance start with an easy baffle and see how it does. Then move on to fans if needed (really should be either one or the other).

The baffle is NOT enough in my fridge. In a slide out they do not get as much air flow. Mine has two fans.

From what I have read and experienced the baffle is usually enough for smaller refrigerators. But it is still a easy and cheap way to start diagnosing ways to improve an inefficient fridge. Just saying try the easy fix first and then go for the fans....

[buzter]

Hddecker..exactly....sold..then they are gone

[hddecker]

buzter wrote:
Have asked a couple times...no reply..great customer service..But I don't think a vent is going to be a life or death event for my family. Yes unless u block it off completely..which is not what I'm asking..thks

Yep, the RV manufacturers a well known for their customer lack of service.

Some of the Suppliers are just as bad.

[wmoses]

hddecker wrote:
Write a letter to the dealer and manufacturer asking for a response in writing, you could be playing with the life of yourself and your family.

:h

From an inefficiently vented fridge compartment?

Agree with the first part of your post though. Clearly the flowthrough needs to be 'tuned' and perhaps in some cases it was not tuned by the manufacturer, especially when tuning involves the installation of a simple plate of a certain size - a part that can easily be "forgotten" by the 'diligent' assemblers of RVs. 😉

[buzter]

Have asked a couple times...no reply..great customer service..But I don't think a vent is going to be a life or death event for my family. Yes unless u block it off completely..which is not what I'm asking..thks

[hddecker]

If your a gearhead you know there is a reason the exhaust valve is smaller than the in take. But your question has serious repercussions and the last place I would look for a definitive answer is a forum such as this.

Write a letter to the dealer and manufacturer asking for a response in writing, you could be playing with the life of yourself and your family.

[buzter]

Thanks for all the great responses guys..there is another piece of tin at the top, it comes down vert. then curves to the top of the fridge..but I can see how a 45 degree piece would help push the air out the vent, might have to get a piece bent up and rivet it to the upper tin piece already there.

[beemerphile1]

It is easy to see the reason for the metal. I did the same thing to my pop up.

First off, that is a terrible installation as refrigerators in slides usually are. The upper vent is nowhere near high enough.

The sheet metal is an attempt to correct the bad installation. Its intention is to prevent the air flow from exiting under the tube you see just above the metal. By partly blocking the opening the air flow will go higher past the tube.

The visible tube is where the ammonia vapor is condensed to liquid. More airflow equals more liquid. More liquid equals better cooling.

[Ivylog]

Refers in slides need all the help they can get. Because of the reinforcing edge around the slide out the upper vent was not mounted high enough to have all of the air flow go over the upper fins before exiting. The metal is to force the air over these fins before exiting. Guess it's better than nothing, but not great. Unfortunately it looks like there may be a dead air space above the top of the opening which is going to disrupt the air flow. If there is you need to add a baffle at a 45 degree angle (between refer and the top of the vent opening) to make the hot air go out the vent, not further up and then back down and out. Sorry, but it's not a very good installation and no you do not want to remove it.
Congrats on getting us a picture and once you have a URL you can get it to post using the yellow box (5 from last) in the advance post. Use a width of 700 or less.

[Bird_Freak]

dodge guy wrote:

buzter wrote:
I recently purchased a 2013 Sprinter 316bik. It has a slide in the kitchen so the fridge is vented at the bottom (typical) and then it is vented thru the sidewall at the top, not thru the roof as it is on the slide. I took the cover off last night and there is a piece of tin mounted on the inside covering half the vent. Wondering why this is, it looks to be factory mounted as it is screwed in from the inside. Wouldn't it be better if vent was wide open?? Thanks for all input.

Maybe not! They may have had an issue with "downdraft" and the burner going out. I would leave it. Also, look through your paperwork and see what it says in the fridge packet about slideout mounting! Or as previously posted it could've had a rain issue.

Bingo, Down draft problem. I had to do the same to my MH with the kitchen slide. Burner would blow out running down the road.

[YC_1]

Stars101 wrote:
The baffle should be enough on it's own and shouldn't require any fans.

So for anyone wanting to mod their fridge for better performance start with an easy baffle and see how it does. Then move on to fans if needed (really should be either one or the other).

The baffle is NOT enough in my fridge. In a slide out they do not get as much air flow. Mine has two fans.

[Stars101]

For anyone wanting further info on refrigerator cooling improvements-

Google "refrigerator mods on popupexplorer.com"

Also Chilin' with Bob - Improving Dometic Refrigerator Cooling (long read 10 pages of technical info)