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Want to add DC circuit to Northern Lite

HarmsWay
Explorer
Explorer
How difficult is the wire routing? It’s a 2014 10-2 and I’d like to add a separate circuit to in the cabinet below the TV. Looks like access to the DC panel would be easy through the rear dinette seat (or by removing the panel). I can see where the wiring goes out of the below-TV cabinet and across the camper below the front window where the step to the bed is. I don’t see anything in the basement though so I don’t know how it gets to the panel from there. Presumably below the dinette somehow.

Anyone done this?

Thanks,
Bob
8 REPLIES 8

HarmsWay
Explorer
Explorer
Great minds think alike. I bought a BlueSea BelowDeck 4356 panel last fall and just got around to installing it last night in the same place as yours.



Right now it’s just tapped into the DC outlet on the inside of the cabinet below the TV. When I’m out camping next week I’ll do some wire routing exploring. Or have a beer and decide it’s good enough.

beachbum2011
Explorer
Explorer
I added 12 volt circuits to my NorthernLite 8-11 QueenClassic
i Wasn't able to get wires to bed area , but i installed Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket and
Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket in front of cabinet face
to left of sink. Next to hot water tank switch.
If you remove dinette plywood seat top from from over electrical panel. you will gain access to back of fuse panel . There are many unused 12 circuit wires coiled up back there.
find out which wire and empty fuse plug go together. Splice onto wire for positive connection.
For ground wire Cut existing ground wire and spliced in Blue Sea Systems Common 100A 5-Gang Mini BusBar to connect new ground connections.
The wires can be snaked under silverware draw and up face of cabinet to left of sink.
I Used #10 wire to minimize current loss.
Insert fuse and your powered up.

Wardster
Explorer
Explorer
My NL is a 2016, but you can gain access to the space by removing the dinette cushion and then by removing the access panel where the water heater bypass valves are. You can then remove the drawer beneath step up the the bed, which gives you additional access to wiring. With these items removed and some help, I think you could fish wires through for whatever you might need.
2016 Northern Lite 8'11" Q Classic Special Edition
2003 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4 - Duramax/Allison

HarmsWay
Explorer
Explorer
All good information thanks to all.

Gordon, I think you are right that the routing is done during construction and I won’t be able to follow it exactly but I may be able to get it through without having wires dangling about. It’s short enough for 10 ga. We have good marine suppliers locally.

Jim, I have a good wire fish I’m going to run through the space under the dinette to see if I can go that way. As said, 10 ga would be adequate.

Mark, well plan b would be direct from the batteries. Short and sweet, but I’d like it to be included in what gets killed with the battery switch.

Thanks again. Happy camping. -Bob

markchengr
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, I've got a 2008 NL 10-2 CDSE. Just an idea, but you could pretty easily run wiring direct from the batteries to that cabinet using an appropriate sized inline fuse. I've done some wiring in there for solar installation and larger wires for the inverter. It's all fairly accessible, you just have to make a new hole in the battery enclosure and caulk the hole after passing the wire through to make it hydrogen gas proof. -Mark.

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
Most of the wiring in my TC is behind panels in the ceiling or walls. There is no way to pull any additional wires and I was not about to try to removing paneling. To install a socket on one wall I had to pull wiring under the kitchen cabinets, across the top of the water tank, under the edge of my dinette seat, and up through another cabinet. Remember with 12 volt wiring you will have 10 times the losses due to resistance when compared with 120 volt wiring. You need to think about 10 gauge or heavier wires. Because of the run length, I went with 6 gauge.

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
Just an off the the cuff response. I don't have a TC, so no direct knowledge of your situation.

Likely whatever factory wiring that is in place was routed during construction, and will likely be difficult or impossible to follow now that everything's put together.

If you have a free fuse circuit on your DC panel, route the cabling in whatever manner is most accessible for you, and will keep the cable out of your way.

For 12v, I recommend Ancor duplex marine cable. 12 ga for a 20 amp circuit, 10 ga for a 30 amp circuit:
Westmarine

It's very nice cable, very supple and the strands are all tinned to resist corrosion. Genuine Dealz will likely have it for less, they didn't pop up right away when I searched.

Home Depot carries a selection of easy to use plastic surface-mount wire track, that may be of interest. Wiremold brand I believe.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think some RVers do too much "hiding" of additional wiring...so they won't see it. If your interior is brown as mine is try brown extension cord in the corners...only I see it.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad