Weight dist. hitch---How much Hassel?

[tcmaybee]

Been researching TT vs class C. For the sake of argument lets assume if I buy a trailer I will install an EQUALIZER 4 point hitch. Lets further assume that as I drive across America I will want to unhitch the truck every 3rd overnight stop at a campground and of course re-hitch for the next day's travel. Also need to secure the hitch in my truck bed, trailer or tie to a tree so it doesn't walk off while I'm not around.

I'm 75. Am I soon going to get tired of wrestling the hitch on and off and wish I would have spent a little more and got a class C? I know there are other pros and cons to each option, but I have no knowledge of the effort required for the hitch process. We'll assume an electric tongue jack.

[rbpru]

As I mentioned, so much depends on how you camp.

At age 73, hitching and unhitching is not an issue for me but I still tent camp when necessary.

I like to set up my TT at camp then tour the area in my truck, always coming back to my TT camp home. Pulling out in a class C and returning to re-level, stabilize and hook up a camp spot is not my style.

Given the popularity of Class C units many people find them perfectly acceptable.

At least Class C's are easy to rent if one wants to try.

[TurnThePage]

tcmaybee wrote:
Thanks Turn. Ever worry about somebody running into the hitch at Walmart? Is it too heavy/awkward to just straighten things out, pull the hitch pin and throw the whole assembly in the bed?

I'm too lazy to wrestle with it that much. Before I bought the extended shank, it didn't stick out nearly so far. I don't often go to Walmart or other stores when camping, but on the rare occasion, yeah, I leave it on there just like that. I suppose if we were venturing into civilization for very long, I'd probably remove it.

[S1njin]

SoundGuy wrote:
The irony in all this of course if that once you get a Class C you then decide you need a toad you'll be back to hitching up again! :R

Bah - that's what Enterprise is for !

[tcmaybee]

Thanks Turn. Ever worry about somebody running into the hitch at Walmart? Is it too heavy/awkward to just straighten things out, pull the hitch pin and throw the whole assembly in the bed?

[TurnThePage]

Here are a couple pics of my Equal-I-zer hitch mounted with the bars left on just the way I would leave it when I temporarily unhitch at a destination. Nothing is actually secured at this moment. Note that I'm using an extended shank which allows my to lower my tailgate. Typically, I would secure a bright bag or something around the hitch to make it visible.

[jaycocreek]

tcmaybee wrote:
Been researching TT vs class C. For the sake of argument lets assume if I buy a trailer I will install an EQUALIZER 4 point hitch. Lets further assume that as I drive across America I will want to unhitch the truck every 3rd overnight stop at a campground and of course re-hitch for the next day's travel. Also need to secure the hitch in my truck bed, trailer or tie to a tree so it doesn't walk off while I'm not around.

I'm 75. Am I soon going to get tired of wrestling the hitch on and off and wish I would have spent a little more and got a class C? I know there are other pros and cons to each option, but I have no knowledge of the effort required for the hitch process. We'll assume an electric tongue jack.

I own both at the moment..A 30 ft travel trailer and a 21ft Class C.I have owned all the different RV's and the trailer is the hardest to set-up and take down with the fifth wheel being easier and the motorhomes the very easiest.

Sometimes messing with the hitch and bars can be a real hassle compared to the other RV types.With my C I find a level spot and I am done..Nothing else to do except enjoy.With the travel trailer you have corner jacks to mess with and hooking up and un-hooking and storing the bars and hitch.

At 75 years old,yes it will get old,depending how you RV..A class C with auto levelers would be the cats meow..Nothing to do but pull into a spot and your done with never leaving the coach.

Each year we age it seems the mountains get steeper and everything gets a little heavier..(laughing)

[DallasSteve]

myredracer wrote:

DallasSteve wrote:
I'm new to this and I just watched a video of how to hitch a WDH. I would classify that as a major PITA. Someday someone will invent a simpler solution (and make a lot of money).

Maybe at first if you're a newbie but after you've done it for a while it's pretty easy (assuming you have an electric tongue jack). And in the overall scheme of setting up and breaking camp, it's relatively minor. Curious - can you post a link to the vid?

The part I hate most is getting on my hands and knees to hook up the sewer hose and pull the valve handles because the TT manufacturer conveniently put them under the slide out. Same with the chock on that side if we ran the slide out first.

Here's a link to the video I saw. He has to crank it down, then crank it up, then crank it down, then maybe you're through (plus hooking up the chains, which doesn't look too easy itself).

YouTube: How To Use A Weight Distribution Hitch

[Hannibal]

tcmaybee wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
http://www.forestriverinc.com/travel-trailers/rockwood-mini-lite

One of these little guys?

Yes. Can't make up our mind if we want bunks or not, but still close enough spec wise I think. I wondered about the need for the WD hitch, but most on here seem adamant you might die without. Plan is to drive whatever I buy for awhile, then decide what I think. I'll end up deciding with caution I'm sure but may want to experience some shake and sway first.

Our first TT was a '95 Aljo Deluxe 1850. It had tandem axles and about 450 tongue weight. Dealer insisted on WD. We towed with WD but no sway control. Did well but we did feel trucks passing. Once I got used to it, not a problem. I felt we had too much WD though so we tried it without the bars. Much better. We ended up towing it with just a ball on a straight bar after than and sold the WD hitch. I agree. I'd try it and see. If you don't need it, it sure makes it easy.

[tcmaybee]

Hannibal wrote:
http://www.forestriverinc.com/travel-trailers/rockwood-mini-lite

One of these little guys?

Yes. Can't make up our mind if we want bunks or not, but still close enough spec wise I think. I wondered about the need for the WD hitch, but most on here seem adamant you might die without. Plan is to drive whatever I buy for awhile, then decide what I think. I'll end up deciding with caution I'm sure but may want to experience some shake and sway first.

[Hannibal]

http://www.forestriverinc.com/travel-trailers/rockwood-mini-lite

One of these little guys? Not a problem at all. You'll barely need any WD or sway control. The 600 lb tongue weight Equalizer would work very well for an F150 and these trailers. I would set it up like I did mine for ease of hitching and unhitching. I set the head for equal height of the ball to the top of the coupler with the trailer level. Then the tilt so the bars were parallel to the ground while pulling up on them by hand. Then I latched the ball to the trailer coupler and with just a enough lift on the tongue jack to put upward tension on the shank in the receiver, I set the L brackets to be level with the spring bars. Much to my satisfaction, this was just right to bring the front of the truck back down more than half of it's rise without the bars. Easy to hitch and unhitch without having to use the cheater bar. Since I barely need any sway control if any with our rig, I put a little dab of marine grease on the L brackets while putting some on the recommended points on the sockets at the head to keep the hitch quiet. With the trailer you're looking at and an F150, I'd try it both ways and see how I like it. A little Rustoleum gloss black spray touch up every now an then keeps it looking nice.

[tcmaybee]

I'm starting to lean toward a TT vs. class C. Price and limited availability of ~25' C's, along with feeling more comfortable about hauling a TT after reading this forum, has me thinking in that direction. Couple more weeks should allow a decision.

Before I get too far down the path, how about some comments on specs to make sure I'm reasonably in the ball park with my existing TV and potential trailer choices:

TV 2003 F150 5.4L 3.73 80k mi runs perfect
Tow rated 7100#
GVWR 6750 GCVW 12,500

Trailer choices 25' Rockwood Mini Lites
UVW ~ 4700 CCC ~1425 = GVWR ~6125

So 6125gvwr + 6750gvwr = 12875gcwr or 375# over spec if maxed out

I realize this is hypothetical without weighing everything, but am I close to being "safe"? I plan on an Equalizer WDH or similar.

[Vintage465]

All interesting reading. Since my family owned and RV shop, I've been towing (since I was 16) with and setting up WD type hitches since I was 15. So the 5-10 minutes it takes me to hook up is really "normal" operation to me. I presently use a Draw-Tite W.D. with 1000# bars and a Friction type Sway control. Now compared to the more designer W.D. Hitches out there, this may seem pretty cave man. But in reality, it is quick and easy to hook up, not nearly as expensive as some of the others. Mine has a 2-1/2" drop shank(from Curt) to go into the 2013 GM 2500 HD receiver so the head is a little portly, But probably not any heavier than the rest of the bunch. I've seen and used a Blue Ox and thought it was a pretty clean, sano and easy to hook up. Since I have mine already, I will keep it 'til I see the need for something different. Also, just for the record, I've never had sway problems with the previous trailer (1984 25' bunkhouse) or my present 24' Creek Side. I am not a fair weather traveler either, I tow in all weather except extreme snow and ice..............hate that!

[BarneyS]

I am 80 years old and still tow my 30ft travel trailer around. I use a Hensley hitch which stays on the trailer. The only thing needing any lifting is the stinger which weighs in the neighborhood of 20-25lbs and is very easy to handle.

As far as hitching goes, my present truck has a backup camera and it is very simple to get the stinger in the hitch. Before that, I used a mirror that fit on the tailgate of my truck to see the hitch/stinger.
Both systems work well and only require getting out of the truck one time to check the height alignment of the stinger before inserting it in the hitch.

After that it is simply a matter of turning cranking up the bars and hooking up the chains, lights, and breakaway. Nothing different from any other hitch.

The nice thing about the Hensley, other than the sway control, is the fact that you don't have to manhandle any heavy items around. Everything stays attached to the trailer - including the bars - except for the stinger.

With any hitch, hooking up and unhooking is only a small part of the work necessary to travel with a trailer or any other RV. I certainly would not worry about it, consider it a hassle, or use it as a criteria for choosing one type of RV over another.
Barney

[danimal53]

i pretty much do everything manually, but I can certainly see the usefulness of a power tongue jack. I also remove the hitch from the receiver whenever I unhook.

With a power jack and one of these, there are definitely ways to make the process easier.

on quick overnight stops I usually don't unhitch, but otherwise it's not terribly difficult to take it all out.