weight distribution/sway or not

[ssemalone]

TV is a 2014 Tahoe with HD tow package, 8,000 lbs tow rating, pulling a flagstaff microlite 23' empty weight is 3630, been told I do not need a weight distribution/sway bar, would like to other opinions...

thanks

[Seattle_Lion]

aftermath wrote:
You might want to take a look at the Anderson hitch. It is relatively new on the market but it does have a pretty good following.

First, weight distribution. You might not need it. As long as your loaded set up doesn't drop the rear end of your truck to the point where the front wheels are too light, you should be good. Losing 160 pounds doesn't sound like a dangerous situation to me.

Sway control? All trailers are different. Some just tow easier and more stable than others. I tow and Airstream and it really rides nice back there. Do I need sway control? Probably not. I choose to have it since I do need the weight distributing hitch. I am glad that I have it because you just never know what kind of situation you might find yourself in.

I was coming down a very long and winding hill in California a few years ago. It wasn't all the steep but at the bottom there was an Airstream on its side in the median with the TV on the right side of the road. He was towing just on the ball and it looks like he lost it to swaying. There were marks on the road that looked like it was going side to side before he lost it. Speed, wind, hills, passing cars/trucks, bad road conditions, rain, snow are all issues that can create sway. Having a good anti sway hitch does not absolve you of all threat but it does help keep things under control better than the alternative.

Each TV maker publishes max receiver weight wit ou and with WD hitch. It's not a good idea to exceed them.

[aftermath]

You might want to take a look at the Anderson hitch. It is relatively new on the market but it does have a pretty good following.

First, weight distribution. You might not need it. As long as your loaded set up doesn't drop the rear end of your truck to the point where the front wheels are too light, you should be good. Losing 160 pounds doesn't sound like a dangerous situation to me.

Sway control? All trailers are different. Some just tow easier and more stable than others. I tow and Airstream and it really rides nice back there. Do I need sway control? Probably not. I choose to have it since I do need the weight distributing hitch. I am glad that I have it because you just never know what kind of situation you might find yourself in.

I was coming down a very long and winding hill in California a few years ago. It wasn't all the steep but at the bottom there was an Airstream on its side in the median with the TV on the right side of the road. He was towing just on the ball and it looks like he lost it to swaying. There were marks on the road that looked like it was going side to side before he lost it. Speed, wind, hills, passing cars/trucks, bad road conditions, rain, snow are all issues that can create sway. Having a good anti sway hitch does not absolve you of all threat but it does help keep things under control better than the alternative.

[CavemanCharlie]

Boy, I don't know guys. With my 04 1/2 ton chevy I pull a 20 year old 20 foot TT. I had it on the scale and the numbers say I have 4580 lb trailer loaded with full water and all camping gear. I have 600 pounds on the rear bumper of the pickup. And, I'm reducing the axel weight on the front of the truck by 120 pounds. Now, I don't tow very far from home and I don't get in the interstate but, I have been up to 65 mph towing (I was in a hurry that day) and I have been passed by semis on two lane roads. Even on windy days and in every conditions I have been in I've experienced no sway and I've never had a problem. Those weight distribution hitches are such a big heavy thing hanging on the bumper. Right where you bang you legs on them. And they are such a pain to hook up and unhook that I don't see one in my future. Now, If I were pulling something longer, bigger, heavier, and further from home maybe it would be different. But, right now there not for me until they build a easier one to hook and unhook and take off of the bumper.

[aftermath]

My feelings on the matter is that most people need a weight distributing hitch while all people should have an anti sway hitch.

A big 1 ton PU towing a relatively light trailer might not need any weight distributing but.....every trailer should have some anti sway prevention in place. Yes, some trailers are much better than others at the non sway thing but you just never know. Years ago, many years ago, when I was looking for my first hitch I stayed away from anything that you would have to unhook when backing up. At the time this included add on tension sway bars and many hitches like the Reese where you had to snap the chains in place. I got an Equalizer and have been happy ever since.

The Reese is a great hitch as are many others and the improvements have been impressive. I think your options today are much better than years ago. I would suggest that you get a weight distributing hitch with built in sway control. I think you will be glad that you did.

[jffkrn]

Well I am sure you have already made your choice, decision etc. But I have to put in my two cents worth.. I have been towing trailers for about 15 years and have always used a weight distribution hitch with sway control Wouldn't be without it like the old guy stated. Also Barney is right on with his description of the bending potential. I used a sway WDH with Sway control bar that was removable. Only had to remove a few times due to tight areas where I had to jackknife trailer to turn around or turn into a spot. I now have an equalizer in which I like as it acts as both. I would add that lighter trailers often have some sway as large truck, crosswinds etc. are with you. Whatever you do, check out some videos on line, talk to folks and see some for yourself. Make sure a sales person doesn't sell you something you don't need or under what you need. You can install yourself, take your time or have it professionally done. either way, get one for your safety as well as others on the road. Good Luck & Be Safe ! ! !

[Timeking]

I have to laugh. Just wait until you are towing down the interstate and 8 big trucks in a row blast past you on both the right and the left (as you are in the "through" lane). Then ask, gee, do I need sway bars and wd? You might need a diaper too!

[anaro]

Thank you Barney (and Jbarca) that was a very helpful explanation.

[Mark_and_Linda]

I have a ProSeries WDH with SC on my rig. I added a Friction Sway Bar last year to it. I stop before I start backing and take it off and throw it in the back of the truck. I also have a sharp backing turn into my drive so I always take it off..had to back up at a gas pump one time...straight back, no problem.

[BarneyS]

myredracer wrote:
I thought there was one that you can't back up with and thought it was the Centerline. Maybe it's another one or it was that you had to be in a straight line with the Centerline?
Snip...

I believe the thing you are thinking about is that in order to unhook and remove the WD bars with the Husky Centerline hitch your truck/trailer would need to be pretty much in a straight line with that hitch. The reason is that there are compression washers in the bar sockets/hitch head that always try to keep the bars in a straight ahead position. This is what makes the hitch resist sway. However, that same pressure that keeps the bars in the straight ahead position also make it hard to move them away from the A frame for removal off the L shaped brackets if the truck/trailer are not lined up straight.

As far as I know, this is the only factor in that hitch that could be problematic in use. It certainly has nothing to do with backing up though. The only backing cautions that I am aware of concern the use of the common friction sway control bars.
Barney

[BarneyS]

Anaro,
Backing up with the friction sway control is fine as long as the bar does not compress enough to hit it's limits. If a bar is installed correctly, then the chances of that happening is fairly slim as long as you do not jacknife the trailer. The sway bar does not care if you are backing up or going forward. It will compress and expand just so far either way.

You can find the limits of the bar by backing up, first with a left turn and then a right turn and having somone walk alongside to watch the bar and stop you when the limit is just about reached.
When backing to the right, the bar will compress and reach a point where farther compression will cause the metal parts of the bar to meet. That is when you stop and take notice of where the truck/trailer angle is.

When doing a left back (normal back in procedure from drivers side) the control may hit the A frame coupler in it's middle and cause it to bend.
This angle may be a bit less than the other side.

There are some pictures on the forums by JBarca which shows this contact. If I find them I will come back and post a link. Have to go to dinner right now.:)
Barney

Hope this has helped clarify my previous comment. 🙂

Edit: Found at least one of the posts by JBarca with the pictures of the problem that can come with tight turns with the friction sway bar. They will help explain what I tried to say above.
Friction sway bar picture post by JBarca
Barney

[Ron_Gratz]

handye9 wrote:
I too, would recommend you get one. The one I think would suit you the best, is this one.

It's clean (no need to carry grease or lubricant of any kind), quiet (no moaning and groaning of WD bars), lite weight (60 lbs total weight), and has been reported to work very well with liter tongue weights.

I do not think the Andersen WDH would suit him best.

For the Tahoe, Chevrolet specifies that a WDH should be adjusted to give 100% Front Axle Load Restoration.

The OP's trailer is likely to have a tongue weight in excess of 600#.
Twelve users of the Andersen WDH have reported load distribution results for tongue weights in the range of 500-800#. The calculated FALR values were in the range of 40-60%.
Of the Andersen users reports I've seen, only two users have reported FALR values in excess of 90% -- and those were for tongue weights of 400#.

Ron

[ssemalone]

I got the fastway e2 and I do not have to remove this hitch to back up..

[anaro]

Barney- I thought you couldn't back up with friction sway bar and have always seen these disconnected when backing up. You have way more hitch knowledge than me so I bow to you on that but curious for clarification on it.

[myredracer]

I thought there was one that you can't back up with and thought it was the Centerline. Maybe it's another one or it was that you had to be in a straight line with the Centerline?

BarneyS wrote:

myredracer wrote:
Snip...

AFAIK, the only WDH you can't back up with is the Husky Centerline.

:h Where did you hear that? I have never heard of a WD hitch that you could not back up with. Even the very common friction sway bar equipped WD hitch can back up as long as you do not exceed the limits of the sway bar.
Barney