โAug-27-2013 07:49 PM
โAug-29-2013 09:27 AM
โAug-29-2013 09:18 AM
Proteus wrote:Terryallan wrote:
I'd rather drive a truck too. And in truth. No one is going to tow ant TT of any size with a "normal" vehicle. Unless like me. You think a truck IS a normal vehicle. There are only 2 kinds of home owners. Those who have a truck, and those who need a truck. Trucks are needed for WAAAAY more than just towing a RV.
The truck prejudice here is exactly what is wrong with the US RV industry. I don't have a truck. I just safely towed a 6000lb+ trailer for 2k miles through two national parks. Pray tell, what would I want, or need a truck for? If I need to haul a bunch of****** the dump perhaps? I could see it for towing a large 5th wheel, or a full time trailer, but not a standard vacation travel trailer.
Bottom line is there are lots of people in the US, who, like their counterparts in Europe and Australia would like to tow high quality, well designed trailers with efficient and comfortable daily drivers. There just seems to be a lack of high end options out there....
โAug-29-2013 09:18 AM
WoodGlue wrote:
The time is usually anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on what kind of adhesive is used in the vacuum process.
Every manufacturer has different tolerances.
I hope this helps
WoodGlue
โAug-29-2013 09:11 AM
Terryallan wrote:
I'd rather drive a truck too. And in truth. No one is going to tow ant TT of any size with a "normal" vehicle. Unless like me. You think a truck IS a normal vehicle. There are only 2 kinds of home owners. Those who have a truck, and those who need a truck. Trucks are needed for WAAAAY more than just towing a RV.
โAug-29-2013 09:01 AM
TxTiger wrote:
1) Residential construction methods are proven and go back much further than the 1950's. I've not seen any laminated/bonded luan/Azdel constructed single/multi-family residenses in my area.
2) Wood does rot if it stays wet. Catch the leak in time and you're ok. Even minor leaks in fiberglass sided trailers can turn them into a money pit to repair if they delam.
3) I own several trucks. Some like my half ton Silverado is a great daily driver and very comfy on trips. It gets over 20 mpg on the road. Not sure what a "normal" vehicle is. A Ford Focus?
โAug-29-2013 08:59 AM
โAug-29-2013 08:36 AM
gmw photos wrote:
Woodglue,
Can you tell me how much clamping pressure is applied when utilizing a vacuum bonding procedure ?
Also, can you tell me what the correct clamping pressure and time is for the adhesive that might be in use for these different constructions ?
thanks.
โAug-29-2013 08:36 AM
TxTiger wrote:Proteus wrote:
I won't even consider a "stick and tin" trailer for the following reasons.
1) it's cheap crap, pushed because it uses residential construction techniques and requires minimal worker training, and no special factory machinery. 1950s era tech.,,
2) wood gets wet, and rots. Insulation "batts" retain water, and shift.
3) it creates trailers that are far heavier than they need to be, and require large trucks to pull. A truck is a horrible daily driver. They handle like crap, with lousy gas mileage. Why buy one just to pull a trailer? Why not buy a trailer at can be pulled with a normal vehicle?
1) Residential construction methods are proven and go back much further than the 1950's. I've not seen any laminated/bonded luan/Azdel constructed single/multi-family residenses in my area.
2) Wood does rot if it stays wet. Catch the leak in time and you're ok. Even minor leaks in fiberglass sided trailers can turn them into a money pit to repair if they delam.
3) I own several trucks. Some like my half ton Silverado is a great daily driver and very comfy on trips. It gets over 20 mpg on the road. Not sure what a "normal" vehicle is. A Ford Focus?
โAug-29-2013 08:32 AM
WoodGlue wrote:
Vacuum bonding the wrong way is an EPIC FAIL on the part of most, if not all RV mfgs. This sets the stage for almost certain delamination issues!
WoodGlue
โAug-29-2013 08:26 AM
Proteus wrote:
I won't even consider a "stick and tin" trailer for the following reasons.
1) it's cheap crap, pushed because it uses residential construction techniques and requires minimal worker training, and no special factory machinery. 1950s era tech.,,
2) wood gets wet, and rots. Insulation "batts" retain water, and shift.
3) it creates trailers that are far heavier than they need to be, and require large trucks to pull. A truck is a horrible daily driver. They handle like crap, with lousy gas mileage. Why buy one just to pull a trailer? Why not buy a trailer at can be pulled with a normal vehicle?
โAug-29-2013 07:00 AM
โAug-29-2013 06:20 AM
TxTiger wrote:
Check out some of the KZ TT's. Many stick and tin, lightweight yet quality construction. My toy hauler has marine grade plywood flooring, (not OSB), walk on plywood roof decking, well equipped but nothing fancy, more than adequate axles, tires and wheels as opposed to marginal. 2 year warranty and great customer service.
โAug-29-2013 06:14 AM
beemerphile1 wrote:
Call me crazy but it has always been my understanding that stick and tin is lighter than the fiberglass sided trailers.
โAug-29-2013 05:42 AM
โAug-29-2013 05:35 AM
beemerphile1 wrote:
Call me crazy but it has always been my understanding that stick and tin is lighter than the fiberglass sided trailers.