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Who needs the Equalizer Tool to lift bars

Cecilt
Explorer
Explorer
I raised my L brackets one hole today to apply more weight to my steer axle. I was on level ground. I needed to use the tool to lift the bars onto the L Brackets. I could have gone higher with the jack but i dont want to overstress the electric jack to where it breaks. How many of you need to use the tool and not because you find it easier but out of necessity. My bars were level once on the L brackets and I feel the hitch is dialed in. Just to clarify I don't need the tool due to health or strength issues. Tks
22 REPLIES 22

tomkaren13
Explorer
Explorer
owenssailor wrote:
I put blocking under the foot of the jack to ensure lots of travel if needed. We have never used the tool. The electric jack does the job. The back end of the truck has to come up quite a long way before the bars go on the brackets.


X2. Jack does the work! Extra blocks take the worry out of over extending the jack.

Drippin
Explorer
Explorer
Cecilt wrote:
Thanks for the replies. Makes me feel better that others crank the jack and continue to lift the truck past its level position and slide the bars on. I just felt uneasy using the jack to raise the tongue and back of truck past its level position.


In order for me to get the amount of weight transfer to the front wheels on the truck I end up with having to lift the rear of the truck quite high to get the tension off of the bars to put them on and off. Take the time to make sure you are putting enough tension on the bars and transferring the weight forward per the Equalizer instructions.

In my case my tongue weight is high, over 1K lbs, so it takes a bit of lift to get the bars off. My Barker 3500 does not complain.
2008 Laredo 284BHS, 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 6.7CTD, Equal-i-zer, P3, Subaru RG4300iS :B

mileshuff
Explorer
Explorer
I always used my trailers hand crank jack until the bars slipped on. Reverse the process to take them off. Much easier than using the tool. Never much effort.
2014 Winnebago 26FWRKS 5th Wheel
2007.5 Dodge 2500 6.7L Diesel
2004 Dodge Durango Hemi 3.55 (Used to tow TT)

Cecilt
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the replies. Makes me feel better that others crank the jack and continue to lift the truck past its level position and slide the bars on. I just felt uneasy using the jack to raise the tongue and back of truck past its level postion.

zenbuck
Explorer
Explorer
I have to use it on one side only when parked at home... I also utilize the electric jack... Use it if you got it! 🙂

rgolding
Explorer
Explorer
owenssailor wrote:
I put blocking under the foot of the jack to ensure lots of travel if needed. We have never used the tool. The electric jack does the job. The back end of the truck has to come up quite a long way before the bars go on the brackets.


Ditto, use the electric jack and save your back. Super simple and very safe.
Smooth Sailing,
Ric and Jan
Southern Illinois

2016 Jayco Seneca 37FS "Low Key"

NanciL
Explorer II
Explorer II
Some times I use the cheater bar, and sometimes I don't.
I jack up the trailer and if it is not high enough, I just use the cheater bar.
Why screw around with jacking it some more when a little persuasion works and saves time!

Jack L
Jack & Nanci

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
camperdave wrote:
wrvond wrote:
The tools are not intended to be used under pressure. They are simply a safety item to keep your hands out of harm's way. If you are having to exert effort to lift the WD/AS bars or chain hooks into position or release them, then you either have too much tension on the bars, or the hitch head is too low.
Remember, too much tension on the WD bars is just as bad (or worse) than not enough. If your bars are rated too high for the job, they will result in a much harsher ride.


Are you saying that with the trailer hitched up and the tongue jack up, that the bars should just slip onto the L brackets? that makes no sense at all. If it required no pressure to lift the bars on, then they would not be doing anything once up there.


I agree and think wrvond is "all wet" so to speak and have no idea where that idea about them not being intended to use under pressure came from:h

Use you electric jack to raise the system enough to slip the bars on by hand.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

owenssailor
Explorer
Explorer
I put blocking under the foot of the jack to ensure lots of travel if needed. We have never used the tool. The electric jack does the job. The back end of the truck has to come up quite a long way before the bars go on the brackets.
2011 Jayco 28U
2012 Chev Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 6 spd 3.42 (sold)
2017 Chev Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 8 spd 3.42
Equal-i-Zer 1400/14000
RotoChocks

kknowlton
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have to use ours at times, especially in the spot we park it at home, since the truck sits unlevel there compared to the camper. Otherwise, almost never need to use it at all.
2020 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L V8 w/ tow pkg, Equal-i-zer
2020 Lance 2375

camperdave
Explorer
Explorer
wrvond wrote:
The tools are not intended to be used under pressure. They are simply a safety item to keep your hands out of harm's way. If you are having to exert effort to lift the WD/AS bars or chain hooks into position or release them, then you either have too much tension on the bars, or the hitch head is too low.
Remember, too much tension on the WD bars is just as bad (or worse) than not enough. If your bars are rated too high for the job, they will result in a much harsher ride.


Are you saying that with the trailer hitched up and the tongue jack up, that the bars should just slip onto the L brackets? that makes no sense at all. If it required no pressure to lift the bars on, then they would not be doing anything once up there.
2004 Fleetwood Tioga 29v

wrvond
Explorer II
Explorer II
The tools are not intended to be used under pressure. They are simply a safety item to keep your hands out of harm's way. If you are having to exert effort to lift the WD/AS bars or chain hooks into position or release them, then you either have too much tension on the bars, or the hitch head is too low.
Remember, too much tension on the WD bars is just as bad (or worse) than not enough. If your bars are rated too high for the job, they will result in a much harsher ride.
2022 Keystone Cougar 24RDS
2023 Ram 6.7L Laramie Mega Cab

camperdave
Explorer
Explorer
My electric jack died a few years ago and I never replaced it (just put the original manual cranker back on). I use the Equal-i-zer lift tool every time so I don't have to crank so much. I really should buy a new electric jack I guess.
2004 Fleetwood Tioga 29v

Farm_Camp
Explorer
Explorer
The service guy that installed and set up mine showed me how I can use it if needed.

That was the last time it was ever out of the storage bay.

As the others have said I just keep jacking it up till the bars slip on easy. Use a couple of blocks under the foot if you want to cut down some on how much you need to run/crank the jack.
TV: 2010 F250 XLT 4X4 SC SB 5.4L 3.73 - "The Blue Monster" (2013-2018) Traded at 100K
TV: 2017 F250 XLT 4X4 CC SB 6.7L PD 3.31 - "The Silver Streak"
TT: 2014 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 329BHU

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