rjkfsm wrote:
I have a brake controller and a WD hitch, but no bars. I will be driving in the mountains from MO to MD.
The shortest route for me is I-70 all the way through southern PA where they got 8"+ of snow in the last 24 hours. While no snow is in the immediate forecast and they should have time to clear the roads before I get there, I will go the southern route if I have to.
RK
Hi RK,
MO to MD on I70, that's a good hike. Do not know the starting location or the ending location, so I mapped St Louis to Baltimore, 900 miles. And in this case, 800 or 1,000 miles won't change what I'm going to suggest you think through.
That distance for a 1st time TT tower is something to think through and by asking us, good for you, your thinking about it.
32 foot TT, that's my camper length just my weights are higher. I'll express caution and here are some things to think through so you go in eyes wide open and better prepared.
What 1/2 ton do you have? Need year, make, model, as a starter. Need cab configuration and bed length. Or better, the wheel base if you have it. We do not know if you have a crew cab long bed Chevy 1500 or a older body style Dodge Durango. Can give better cautions on what to watch out for if we know more. Oh and be prepared for 8 to 10 mpg while towing. We all are shocked by it the 1st time we see the gas gage drop like that.... Use tow haul if it has it or drop it in 3rd if it is an OD setup and if it starts hunting 3rd to OD non stop. Need to keep that tranny heat down.
Towing mirrors, odds are high that is an 8 foot wide camper. You need towing mirrors on a trip like this. You need to be able to see the back of the camper on both sides. Without towing mirrors to extend out further than the camper width it's a problem seeing back there. Ideally it is 8 feet between the inside of the mirrors.
Tires, both the truck and the camper. Let's start with the camper, how old are they? If this is an older camper this is a heads up. ST trailer tires that are approaching 5 years old can have issues with cracking side walls or in the tread. Heck some can at 3 years old.
A tire failure can be a hand full to deal with. They are going to heat up on a trip of this length. There are DOT date codes on the side walls so you can tell the date. Look up "DOT date code" on the web they tell you how to decode the date. If there is no DOT date code, they are for sure too old... May have to check both side of the tire. Do not go by thread depth as many trailer tires die way before the tread ever wears out. Regardless of age, these tires need to be up at max cold side wall pressure for towing for stability and running cooler. Take a compressor or some how get to a gas station quick. Do not run them at all 1/2 inflated. How is the spare tire for the camper? Bring a jack and wrenches to change a flat. A torque wrench for 100 ft lb for the wheels and check at the 50, 100 and 150 miles mark after changing the wheel. These TTs have no center pilot like a auto, the nuts loosen up until full seated.
The truck, tires here can be a hand full too. What size/type do you have? P type tires are common on the 1/2 ton. The rears can be air'ed up to max cold side wall pressure without too much trouble to create a stiffer side wall. The front will be an experiment. For sure door sticker pressure and then go up 10 psi if you have room before max cold pressure. If the truck does not bounce so bad you can go all the way to max cold. Just air them up before towing so you do not have to ride in the broncho all the way out there. When you load it up with the camper it will ride better than empty. If the tires are soggy side walls, towing instability can come from this.
Camper axle bearings, any idea the last time they where ever serviced? Do the brakes work?
Now your receiver, look for a sticker on it, the receiver itself or the owners manual. It could be rated very low with no WD hitch. And even then, 600# on a 1/2 ton with no WD is something to really think through. I myself would not do it for a 1,000 mile trip. The front end of the truck will be bobbing around, that 32 foot TT can be pushing hard on the cross winds of I70 from IN to Ohio. It's flat land in that area. No WD and no anti sway and light truck = stop and really think if you want to do this.
Since you have a hitch head, is it adjustable in height? Do you know a brand, or take a pic and show us, we can spot most all brands. You want the camper towing level, no nose high and not real nose low either. Real nose high can aggravate sway. Real nose low and it loads too much weight on the front TT axle. Back to old tires, long distance and the front axle under high weight.
Options:
1. Let us see if we can help you get the hitch and shank to work with a set of used or new WD bars, chains and snap up brackets. Or better buy an entire used WD hitch on craig's list and then sell it again. If you are going to keep the camper, then the hitch is needed anyway.
2. Rent a 1 ton truck with a receiver rated for weight carrying that can handle 750 to 1,000# in weight carrying mode. Hot shotters deliver campers all this time with no WD hitch but they have a heavy truck and do this for a living.
There is risk to what you are asking about and trying to help you lower it to a manageable state. 800 to 1,000 miles, 600# TW, 1/2 ton truck that is at least a full size pickup, 32 foot camper, no WD hitch and no sway control, for me, no I would not do it. I would get the truck setup to take care of that TW. That is a lot of trailer. If this is a Durango etc, we need to talk some more.
That is one long ways for a rig not setup right. Given the wrong circumstances this can get bad quick. Not trying to scare you, help educate and not see you get into trouble if we can at least help it.
Hope this helps
John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
