Winterize with low point drains

[Flan]

First year with the camper going into winter. I notice it has a set of hot/cold low point drains out back and a drain on the fresh water tank. Is there still a need to blow out the lines if using the drains? I opened all the faucets to break vacuum, even opened the blowoff valve on the hot water heater to break vacuum in there. Am I ok to pour some rv antifreeze down the drains and call it good?
Thanks

[braindead0]

I typically blow out, antifreeze in traps and open the drain on my water heater. Leave low point and fresh water drains open. That's served we pretty well.

However this year I had a broken pump pre-filter, the plastic 'cap' just fell apart. Now I run a little anti-freeze into that and the pump just in case... and carry a spare.

[Cecilt]

I have never bypassed the water heater when just blowing out the lines. No problem in 8 years so you are fine. Question, who starts at the furthest faucet and moves closest to the city water inlet when blowing lines or starts at the closest to the city water inlet and moves furthest away. I have always started at the furthest point from city water inlet(where I blow from) and move closer but have heard others do opposite.

[RedRocket204]

I wouldn't be so sure on not using the WH bypass for all situations. My WH bypass line is vertical, so if the middle valve is closed for normal operation, about 2-3" of line is filled with water to the closed valve. That can freeze and cause damage if not removed.

I blow out the WH with bypass in normal position first. Then open the bypass valve to get that "standing" water removed. Then continue on with the rest of the process of blowing out the lines.

[bobndot]

srt20, correct, no need just using air. Bypass prevents 6 gals of antifreeze from entering the WH tank.

While the air is pumping, I flip on the water pump for a few seconds to clear it.

[srt20]

Ok, But Im not bypassing it at all. I just cannot see a reason for it.

I drain the WH, which is a drain on mine, not the anode rod cap. BTW, I never open anything on the WH without opening the psi relief valve first. So the air will escape from there under control.
Once the WH is drained, I put air in the lines and push any water in the WH intake line into the WH and out the drain.
Then I replace the WH drain plug in and the WH is done.
Next while air is on and pushing, I open up facets, showers, toilet, etc, one at a time. Get all water out, and your done.
Put some pink in the traps and tanks.


IMO the only reason to put WH in bypass is because you dont want the pink in there, or you need to service it, but still need water to the rest of the camper.


Please correct me if Im wrong, but I just dont see a need to use WH bypass to winterize if you arent using the pink?

[Rubber_Ducky1]

srt20 wrote:
Ok, so maybe I am missing something.

People say to bypass water heater before winterizing. If I only use air on lines to blow out, why do I have to bypass WH? Obviously the WH drain gets pulled and all water is out. But I never bypass, just blow air through the everything, including WH. I do blow out one thing at a time. And I do use pink in the traps and tanks.

Am I missing something that I should bypassing the WH?

Trust me, you want to bypass water heater BEFORE blowing out the water lines. Just last Wednesday, Oct. 4, I winterized my friends camper. I pulled the anode rod out of the water heater to let it drain. I then uncapped the low point drain lines. After all the water was out of the water heater I put the anode rod back in and capped the low point drain lines. I then went in and turned the bypass valves on the water heater. Now I was ready to blow out the water lines. I blew out the lines for the bathroom sink, shower, toilet and kitchen sink. I then went outside to get the pink antifreeze. While outside a thought came to me to pull the anode rod out of the water heater to make sure there was no remaining water in the heater. When I got to the LAST thread on the anode rod there was a LOUD pop and the anode rod hit me in the stomach and lime pellets hit the back of my right hand like BBs. My right hand was bleeding like a stuck hog. Why did this happen. Well after cleaning the blood off my hand and bandaging it I went back inside to check the water heater bypass valves. I had forgotten to turn the cold water bypass valve so what I was doing when blowing out the water lines was also filling the water heater with air. Next year I will leave the anode rod out of the water heater. That way if I hear air coming out of the water heater drain hole I'll know that I don't have the water heater bypassed correctly.

[GrandpaKip]

I would think that if the drain is open on the WH, you would not get much air going through the hot side in the rest of the camper.
I open and close the bypass valves to get any residual water out of those lines and keep the anode in the Suburban water heater.
Most of the water in the WH drains out from the low point drain while we are on our way home.

[srt20]

Ok, so maybe I am missing something.

People say to bypass water heater before winterizing. If I only use air on lines to blow out, why do I have to bypass WH? Obviously the WH drain gets pulled and all water is out. But I never bypass, just blow air through the everything, including WH. I do blow out one thing at a time. And I do use pink in the traps and tanks.

Am I missing something that I should bypassing the WH?

[rbpru]

We all have a winterizing method. I stopped blowing out the lines when I blew camp water check valve.

I pump antifreeze through the water pump, out each faucet and down the drain. Then I open the low point drains and make sure some antifreeze flows out the pipes.

Then I flush a bit more antifreeze though the faucets and down the drain.

This leaves antifreeze in the P traps and some in the black and gray tanks to mix with their residual water.

Remember, the hot water tank has been drained and bypassed before starting the winterizing process.

[GrandpaKip]

You could do that if you know for sure all the lines drain, fittings especially. A little water in the lines won’t hurt a thing as long as it can’t freeze the line solid. All the part time cabin owners here drain their systems using gravity.
That said, I blow mine out.

[bobndot]

Blow out the black tank flush as well and the outside shower.

After i use gravity to drain the freshwater holding tank and use the low-point drain to partially clear the water lines,I blow some air thru my system to get rid of any more hidden water which collects at the elbows.

I then pump antifreeze thru the system so it does not mix and dilute with residual water in the system, i feel this gives the full benefit of the antifreeze and it runs thru the water pump as well.

I then blow out the antifreeze because the system is now protected fully.
There is NO need to leave the antifreeze in the system, i flush it so it doesn't leave antifreeze residue in the lines.
When springtime comes around again, i just have to fill it with water and im on the road again.

[Flan]

Ok I will blow out the lines I don't mind doing it right, taking the time. With the other shortcuts I have fixed from the factory I guess you are correct that not all lines would be setup correctly to actually go to those low point drains. I do have to research the heater bypass I am not familiar with it.

[ksg5000]

Even if the low point got all the water (unlikely) you would still have potential problem with things like the toilet valve - suggest you blow.

[RedRocket204]

Drain fresh tank first, then run you water pump to get all the water out if the pump and lines into the fresh tank. If your pump has a clear pre-filter, unscrew that and empty last.

I would not solely trust the low point drains to get water out of your lines. I would definitely use an oil-less air compressor set at 45 psi.

Don't forget about the water heater bypass, outside shower and black tank flush.