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Would trailer roll? Am I thinking too hard?

crazyro
Explorer
Explorer
Since we live in a neighborhood, we're now allowed to store the TT on our property (except for a couple of days at a time when loading/unloading). Yes, we chose the neighborhood and it's perfect for us and our kids. Yes, I know some of you would move. 🙂 We will in a few years but for now, it is what it is...
When we bring TT home, we park it next to our driveway, on grass. This has caused a couple of ruts and I'm trying to prevent further damage. My thought was to dig up the areas where wheels would be - say, about 2", then add rubber floor mats (already have them), add dirt in the rubber mat holes, and then plant grass on and around. This way, when grass is compressed, the wheels will hit mats and not the ground, preventing ruts.
Here comes the overthinking part maybe. Spot has a slight slope to it so I always chock wheels and then raise tongue a bit to level off. If I use chocks on the rubber mats, would there be a possibility of TT sliding down? Or the whole thing sliding down, say when ground is wet? I'm thinking no, but... Maybe I'm looking for peace of mind? 🙂
(sorry for the long explanation)
19 REPLIES 19

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
If your problem is ruts from backing into your yarn, that is different from ruts formed from the TT settling into the dirt after a couple of days.

If the ruts are formed from the trailer settling in, the planks with chocks should spread the tire load and keep the TT stable. If they are caused my backing the TT into position, you may need to laydown and pick up the afore mentioned pavers to back the TT into position. This is an easy solution to a short term problem.

The objecting is to spread the tire load so you do not get the ruts. The more permanent solution is to widen the driveway, at least wide enough to allow access to your garage.

Maybe even a half on/half off the drive may be possible, so only one set of TT wheels is involved.

Good luck
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

tdiller
Explorer
Explorer
If you are serious about digging out some soil look into these
http://www.cfmwi.com/grassy-pavers.html

I used them as a base in horse stalls and filled them with crush limestone. They can be driven over once in place and work well.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Campfire Time wrote:
Instead of using rubber mats, which may prove to be worse than just parking on the grass, have you considered grass block pavers? Assuming your HOA would even allow that. If they don't allow trailers, they may have the lawn police checking on that too.

camp-n-family wrote:
I agree with the grass block pavers idea. Stable to park on even with a slope and you don’t really see them once the grass is grown. My neighbourhood uses this system for the public pathways that have areas where service vehicles need access.


X3
These would give you a solid base, no ruts in the lawn, and your lawn. I would also provide an extra parking area when the trailer isn't home.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dig it up and properly put in pavers where the wheels sit.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have gravel and concrete pavers covered with grass where I used to park my camper. You would never know they are there by looking.

To hold your chocks in place when needed, drive a re-bar, screwdriver, pipe, something in the ground behind them to keep from slipping. Be creative. It wouldn't take much to hold them in place.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

crazyro
Explorer
Explorer
Sorry guys. I wasn't too clear. My yard is fine. I use wheel chocks and an X chock. I've never had issues with the trailer. My thought was to dig up the ruts, place rubber mats and then plant grass around and inside the holes so that it will cover them up completely - this way I can still cut the grass as before, it will look right, uniform, etc. but it would help when parking the trailer not to kill the grass. My concern was with the chocks not holding up against the rubber or the rubber mats sliding with the chocks and trailer. I hope this makes more sense.

MarkTwain
Explorer
Explorer
crazyro wrote:
Since we live in a neighborhood, we're now allowed to store the TT on our property (except for a couple of days at a time when loading/unloading). Yes, we chose the neighborhood and it's perfect for us and our kids. Yes, I know some of you would move. 🙂 We will in a few years but for now, it is what it is...
When we bring TT home, we park it next to our driveway, on grass. This has caused a couple of ruts and I'm trying to prevent further damage. My thought was to dig up the areas where wheels would be - say, about 2", then add rubber floor mats (already have them), add dirt in the rubber mat holes, and then plant grass on and around. This way, when grass is compressed, the wheels will hit mats and not the ground, preventing ruts.
Here comes the overthinking part maybe. Spot has a slight slope to it so I always chock wheels and then raise tongue a bit to level off. If I use chocks on the rubber mats, would there be a possibility of TT sliding down? Or the whole thing sliding down, say when ground is wet? I'm thinking no, but... Maybe I'm looking for peace of mind? 🙂
(sorry for the long explanation)


If I understand your question correctly, I would use some 10' 2x10 wooden planks.

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
spoon059 wrote:
Rubber pads won't stop the trailer from leaving indentations, it will just be that much more noticeable. If you are only there for a couple days a year, why not just get a couple of 2x10 boards and put them under the tires? That would spread out your weight over a larger footprint.

t.


Ya, spread the weight out over a larger area.

Or, could you add a small cement pad where the wheels go ? Leave it below the level of the grass and mow right over it whenever your TT is not setting there.

Or, could you dig the dirt up where the wheels go and use packed gravel ? Packed gravel would not sink (as much anyway). Keep the gravel below the level of the grass and mow right over it.

spoon059
Explorer II
Explorer II
Rubber pads won't stop the trailer from leaving indentations, it will just be that much more noticeable. If you are only there for a couple days a year, why not just get a couple of 2x10 boards and put them under the tires? That would spread out your weight over a larger footprint.

Also, if you are concerned about your trailer rolling away, just use chocks. None of us know what your yard looks like, nor will be insure your loss if our advice is wrong. Use chocks and you won't have to worry about it.
2015 Ram CTD
2015 Jayco 29QBS

camp-n-family
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with the grass block pavers idea. Stable to park on even with a slope and you don’t really see them once the grass is grown. My neighbourhood uses this system for the public pathways that have areas where service vehicles need access.
'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
'13 Keystone Bullet Premier 310BHPR
Hitched by Hensley

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Here's another simple solution I've used myself to secure a trailer on a sloping surface - wheel pads, one on each side, that use the weight of the trailer itself bearing down on a wood base to which a rubber chock is securely affixed. Works like a charm, no way the trailer is going anywhere.

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
downtheroad wrote:
These: Fastway Chocks...LINK


Had a set, hated 'em as they're difficult to adjust for a precise fit. A much better solution is a set of infinitely adjustable BAL Standard Tire Locking Chocks.



The only reason I didn't use them with our Freedom Express was the axle spread was so narrow there wasn't sufficient room to fit these chocks between the tires, ergo the reason I instead used rubber chocks to emulate the BAL chock.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
D.E.Bishop wrote:
Aren't these made to solve that non problem?

Chocks


Nope. Despite being called "chocks" X-Chocks and pretend brand X-Chocks like these that rely on maintaining adequate tension between adjacent tires are not to be relied on to properly chock the trailer and prevent it from shifting. Rather they're intended to be used to minimize suspension wiggle when one walks around inside the camper. Problem is, tires shrink as they cool so a set of these X-Chocks installed when first setting up will loose their grip and allow the trailer to shift. Norco even includes a warning note to this effect in every box of X-Chocks.

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

crazyro
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Why don't you park on driveway and chock the trailer

:H


It would completely block access to the garage unfortunately...