X-chock vs. Jack Stabilizers

[Nfrank]

I want to stop the rocking around on my 30ft Cougar and the two products I can find to help eliminate that are X-chocks and jacks stabilizer cross bars. I know both help, but which one helps the most? Has anyone tried both and can give a good comparison? Take a look at these two products I was looking to purchase:

X-chock

Jack Stabilizer

Thanks,
Nathan

[apr67]

apr67 wrote:
I wonder.

My TT is 32 feet. I get some sway, bounce and stuff. With three kids playing, I expect it.

The TT has 4 manual scissor jacks. The are all mounted mostly at a 90 degree angle to the TT, although the fronts are more like 70 degree.

I wonder if adding 2 more scissors infront of the front wheels on the TT and placing them so they are along the same axis as the trailer frame would help. They would do two things.

Reduce front to back movement, because they are stronger that way.
Reduce up and down movement because of supporting the long long trailer better.

Hell, they are cheap I will have to try.

Well I tried it, and it didn't really help.

Probably going the Steadyfast route.

[RinconVTR]

Check out my post...problem 100% solved for less than $80.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27824325.cfm

[fallsrider]

I am experimenting with a homemade contraption to reduce side to side movement at the front of the trailer. Last night was the first time I used it. It totally eliminates movement side to side at the front. There is still some at the back due to tire flexing, but it is improved.

The downside is hauling around the 4x4. Just thought I would share. I can't take credit for it. I saw this on a popup camper forum a few years ago.

[Paul_61]

apr67 wrote:
I wonder.

My TT is 32 feet. I get some sway, bounce and stuff. With three kids playing, I expect it.

The TT has 4 manual scissor jacks. The are all mounted mostly at a 90 degree angle to the TT, although the fronts are more like 70 degree.

I wonder if adding 2 more scissors infront of the front wheels on the TT and placing them so they are along the same axis as the trailer frame would help. They would do two things.

Reduce front to back movement, because they are stronger that way.
Reduce up and down movement because of supporting the long long trailer better.

Hell, they are cheap I will have to try.

I borrowed this Idea from another forum I am on and it appears to work real good. I put my extra stabelizer sissor jacks just in front of the front axel like others have done

[apr67]

brulaz wrote:
Another thing is the trailer steps. We are way off the ground and have 3 steps sticking out quite a distance. You step on the lowest and the trailer rocks. Less with the jacks but still noticeable. The simplest fix there is to put support under that bottom step. That solves a lot of our stability issues ...

The steps are an early warning system. If I feel someone on them, and I ain't expecting guests I know to rack the shotgun.

😉

[brulaz]

Stability can mean different things to different people.
When I tried the Al screw jacks, I was mostly concerned with front-back, side-side motion. So I tested by shifting my weight front-back, side-side, and there was still motion. BUT jumping up-down wasn't a problem, the jacks (and front stabilizers) worked fine there.

Another thing is the trailer steps. We are way off the ground and have 3 steps sticking out quite a distance. You step on the lowest and the trailer rocks. Less with the jacks but still noticeable. The simplest fix there is to put support under that bottom step. That solves a lot of our stability issues ...

[goducks10]

Front to back motion can be cured with good chock placement or the use of Bal chocks. Side to side is only removed with diagonal struts front and rear. TT's have too much wiggle from the tongue jack and the tires. 1 diagonal, each placed on the front and rear is all that's really needed to cure the side to side. For those that haven't used them you won't understand. Those that have do.

FYI, the diagonal struts need to be attached to the frame and the lower part of the stab jack. I've seen pics of guys just clamping a 2x4 diagonally for a strut. Ugly but cheap and just as effective.

Scissor jacks are pretty flimsy. You can lower all the jacks then push on the side of the TT in the rear and 99% of the time you can see the jacks flexing. To get any up and down bounce out, screw jacks placed as close to the wheels as possible will take up and down bounce out.

I welded these screw jack mounts to the TT and used some screw jacks I made to take out the up and down bounce.

[apr67]

I wonder.

My TT is 32 feet. I get some sway, bounce and stuff. With three kids playing, I expect it.

The TT has 4 manual scissor jacks. The are all mounted mostly at a 90 degree angle to the TT, although the fronts are more like 70 degree.

I wonder if adding 2 more scissors infront of the front wheels on the TT and placing them so they are along the same axis as the trailer frame would help. They would do two things.

Reduce front to back movement, because they are stronger that way.
Reduce up and down movement because of supporting the long long trailer better.

Hell, they are cheap I will have to try.

[brulaz]

LarryJM wrote:

...
Unfortunately, your so called experiment did nothing to test what I have recommended in this thread. Putting just two screw type jacks only 18" from the axle is going to do little for support. You need to re read my original post and subsequent ones on proper placement for the jack stands. Second, only using two jackstands when compounded with leaving the same poor support in the front again at the wrong place should not surprise you in giving you poor results. My "system" if you can call it that has several parts with the main ones being they type of support used, location of that support and how to set the tension on those support points. Then this needs some potential tweaking for optimum results. Hapazardly slapping things together and half heartedly setting things up like you appear to have done will give you less than desireable/wanted results.

I can only say that at least two so far in this thread have actually taken the time to do what I have advocated and both have been pleased .... I can fully understand the resistance from those that have invested the BIG BUCKS in their existing systems not wanting to say they are wrong or have WASTED a hugh amt of $$$$ so some of the comments are understandable. Finally all these other "additions" will help, but my whole point is that they are not cost effective nor are they the most effective in solving the issue.

Larry

And "good day" to you too. Whatever.

If I was blocking up the trailer with pairs of concrete blocks so the surface at the frame was 12" or so, not the ~1" of these loose fitting jacks, I would expect more front-to-back stability because of the larger contact area with the frame, but not necessarily more side-to-side stability.

It's not just the weight you put on them or their placement, it's how they meet the frame. If that point is not solid, they and the trailer will rock back and forth without diagonal supports.

Maybe auto type jacks are better in this regard than those little Aluminum ones. Or maybe these: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/adjustable-stabilizer/14033 they have a much wider plate both on top and bottom. Still, trailer side-to-side rocking could be a problem.

[LarryJM]

brulaz wrote:

tkoden wrote:

Just wanted to post an update. I used 4 automotive jack stands (its all I had and wanted to test before I bought other ones) under my travel trailer the last time I set it up, following Larry's suggestions. Since I did not have an electric tongue jack I used a carjack to raise and lower the tongue. The trailer is solid as a rock and I will continue to setup my trailer like this, I highly recommend it. Thank you Larry!!

My experiment has been less successful. I got two of those Al jacks, raised the rear about 1" about 18" behind rear wheel and dropped the frame onto them. Had to put them up on blocks to reach the frame without too much of the screw extension. Used the regular stab jacks and tongue jack up front.

If I then stand in the centre of the trailer and shift my weight (190#) front-back, left-right, the trailer still shifts. Not rock solid. They are just as good as the stab jacks that came with the trailer though, and a lot less fragile.

Thing is, these jacks are not completely rigid, loosely threaded, and where they press against the frame is also a rocking point, back/forth, side-to-side. They seem to need stabilizers like everything else.

I'm now thinking of going to heavy duty scissors jacks with the JT Strongarm stabilizers JT Strongarm

Unfortunately, your so called experiment did nothing to test what I have recommended in this thread. Putting just two screw type jacks only 18" from the axle is going to do little for support. You need to re read my original post and subsequent ones on proper placement for the jack stands. Second, only using two jackstands when compounded with leaving the same poor support in the front again at the wrong place should not surprise you in giving you poor results. My "system" if you can call it that has several parts with the main ones being they type of support used, location of that support and how to set the tension on those support points. Then this needs some potential tweaking for optimum results. Hapazardly slapping things together and half heartedly setting things up like you appear to have done will give you less than desireable/wanted results.

I can only say that at least two so far in this thread have actually taken the time to do what I have advocated and both have been pleased .... I can fully understand the resistance from those that have invested the BIG BUCKS in their existing systems not wanting to say they are wrong or have WASTED a hugh amt of $$$$ so some of the comments are understandable. Finally all these other "additions" will help, but my whole point is that they are not cost effective nor are they the most effective in solving the issue.

Larry

[Lspangler]

I added the steady fast system 3 large wing nuts to tighten and done. Take longer to walk around the trailer than the time spent tightening the nuts. They work great.

Linc

[Campinfan]

I sear by my BAL stabilizers. They took the wobble out of my 35 footer.

[karenE]

We use XChock they work well for us

[brulaz]

tkoden wrote:
How do those attach to the bottom of a scissor jack?

They have detailed installation instructions online. IIRC you replace one of the bolts on the bottom of the scissors jack.