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Glacier-How many days on each side

astern2
Explorer
Explorer
We have some friends that are world travelers and they claim that Glacier is the most beautiful place they've been. They liked it over Yellowstone by far. We've been to Yellowstone before but plan on spending 4 nights at the KOA in St. Marys and 4 nights at the Koa on the West side of Glacier(can't remember which one) and then going back to Yellowstone for 5 nights. Does anyone have any recommendations on particular hikes in Glacier or any strong opinions on the lengths of time we are spending at each side? My kids are 9 & 12 so anything that they might find cool is also appreciated!
14 REPLIES 14

JimandLaura
Explorer
Explorer
We did the Hidden Lake Trail last summer and really enjoyed it. It was a bit tough on the way back up but the views were gorgeous.


The bear grass was really beautiful and something I had not seen before:


I was surprised to look over and see this mountain goat:


And later I was thrilled to see this baby goat practically posing for me:


Also saw marmots like this guy:


And not sure if this guy is a marmot or something else:



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Lauren
Explorer
Explorer
Based on our visits there .........

East Side - hiking and much lower key. Hike Grinnell Glacier for sure and Iceberg Lake (a little tougher). Grinnell Glacier from the lodge is a fairly long hike - 10 to 11 mile range as I recall. Like Ken said you can take the boat across the lake, walk about 1/4 mile or so and take another boat across another lake; then the hike is only about 6 miles round trip. We have done it both ways and I would recommend doing it with the boats; the extra 4 miles is just walking along those lakes pretty much. These might be a little much for the kids but you do not have to go all the way up to the glacier on the Grinnell Glacier hike - just go to the waterfalls (one you go right behind the falls on the trail) and that is spectacular in itself. There is a nice about 2 mile loop walk around Swiftcurrent Lake from the lodge.

West side. Avalanche Lake for sure. Kids will do just fine. This is the more commercial side and a great ice cream place there as well.

And, of course, up to Logan Pass on the Going To The Sun Road from both sides. There are shorter hikes up at the Visitor Center at Logan Pass.

If you want go to www.LaurenBarbara.com and the Wanderings link to Glacier NP under Montana.

P M or email me if you want.

Have fun at one of the greatest places in the U S.

We love Glacier.
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Johndeere4955
Explorer
Explorer
rexlion wrote:
Don't miss the hike to Avalanche Lake. It's uphill to the lake and downhill going back, btw. Take your camera.



I agree on Avalanche Lake. Really worth it.

If you make it to Waterton and have a full day check out Crypt Lake hike. Not your average easy hike, but it is a awesome hike.
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louiskathy
Explorer
Explorer
Red Rocks hiking trail out of Many Glacier (east side) is fairly flat. Gently gains elevation away from the stream until you can look down upon the many lakes with moose in them. (we were there for a month in Aug/Sept 2001.)

We hiked to Grinnell ... some took the boat to the end and then hiked up. We hiked the entire thing. There was a group coming back as we hiked up...and they were carrying a female hiker that had fallen and broke her collar bone. Just be aware that you need to be prepared for stuff like this. Once we got up to Grinnell there was a father begging for water for himself and his 6 year old son. He was completely out of water and it was hot. Then once we got to the water's edge... two teen boys jumped out from the shore to a "sand bar". It was not a sand bar. It was a flat narrow span of ice (in August) that moved away from shore when they landed on it. They thought it was funny and clowned around until that iceberg was too far out for them to swim back. 3 hours later...they made it back to shore. By that time the boats were done running so all of them had to hike all the way back...and we just got back to our car in the last little bit of daylight. Take flashlights.

If it's berry season any of the hiking trails can be closed if bears are reported. Check the hiking trail conditions every morning at a Ranger station.

From the Canadian side... out of Waterton... take the boat (one way)down to Goat Haunt Dock... hike over to the camping area... walking on a very long swinging bridge... and then hike back to Waterton. (or buy a round trip and catch a boat at the Goat Haunt dock and ride back.)
Kathy

2gypsies1
Explorer II
Explorer II
You better hurry on that trip because the glaciers at Glacier are melting fast. We were so surprised on some of our recent hiking and comparing them to photos taken years ago when the glaciers were actually glaciers!
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rexlion
Explorer
Explorer
If you're taking bicycles, there are some nice places to ride. Apgar CG has a very level paved trail; you can ride along Lake McDonald for a ways, then pedal to the west park entrance and back. Get ice cream at the store afterward. Riding along the paved park roads at Two Medicine and Glacier CGs is also good.

I saw canoe rentals at Apgar, if you'd like to get out on the water.
Mike G.
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profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
We spent almost two weeks on the eastside in September a few years ago -- there is just too much great hiking. Here is a blog link -- there is another one right after it:

First of two Glacier Eastside posts

Breathtaking countryside:



If your kids are strong and adventurous, and if conditions permit it, do the hike to Dawson Pass out of Two Medicine. The 60 mph wind at the pass is amazing, as are the views!
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donkeydew
Explorer
Explorer
waterton lakes national park ( the canadian side of glacier) is only about 30 miles from st.mary,mt and is well worth the visit

4runnerguy
Explorer
Explorer
The east side of the park has more rugged features while the west side, being the wetter side, has trees further up the slopes. We prefer the east side.

We've done only a few hikes, but here are a couple of lists people have put together:

Top ten hikes

Ten best moderate hikes

One we haven't done but sounds interesting is the Ptarmigan Tunnel hike, just to experience the tunnel. Likewise, the Grinnell Glacier hike can be combined with a boat shuttle to cut the hiking distance plus have the fun experience of taking the boat.
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rexlion
Explorer
Explorer
Don't miss the hike to Avalanche Lake. It's uphill to the lake and downhill going back, btw. Take your camera.

Mike G.
Liberty is meaningless where the right to utter one's thoughts and opinions has ceased to exist. That, of all rights, is the dread of tyrants. --Frederick Douglass
photo: Yosemite Valley view from Taft Point

sdianel_-acct_c
Explorer
Explorer
We also like Glacier better than Yellowstone.
Plenty to do in the Glacier area other than GNP:
- Hungry Horse Dam in Hungry Horse MT
- Isaak Walton historic site in Essex MT
- Big Sky Water Park
- Polebridge Mercantile (adventure down a dusty dirt road from Columbia Falls MT but awesome huckleberry bear claws once you get there!) They have a nature trail there. Beautiful area!
- Columbia Mountain hike. http://www.columbiafallschamber.org/hiking/
- Zip Lines Whitefish Mountain Resort
- Wild River Adventures - float trips and whitewater rafting.
- Amazing Fun Center - Coram MT
- Lone Pine State Park - Kalispell MT
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rocmoc
Explorer
Explorer
Agree, we loved Glacier over Yellowstone also. But there are 3 sides, the Northern end of the Lake in Canada is great. There is a tour cruise of the lake from the North end of the lake is well worth the expense. IMHO, at least 3 days at each side not including travel time is really required. Sadly a late spring / summer snow storm hit the week before (late June) and the Going to the Sun road was still closed. SO we have to return, still on our bucket list. Next time will also include Banff National Park in Canada as well. Just remember if you cross into Canada, any firearms have to be left in the USA.

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Grandpere
Explorer
Explorer
There is enough places to hike and see without being to the tourist spots that one could spend weeks on going thru GNP. You will have no problems spending 8 days there, and if it were me I would skip YNP and stay in GNP for the additional 4-5 days. The east side is not as pretty as the west side, as far as I am concerned, but they are both spectacular.

As for the children, as long as they admire scenic terrain, rugged mountains, seeing mountain goats, and know enough to be on the lookout for the occasional mountain lion and multitude of bears they will have a blast. We spent a summer in the GNP area when our 3 children were 6 & 7 and did not begin to see everything there was to see.
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Dick_B
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Explorer
We hiked to Hidden Lake one of the most popular since it leads out of the main Visitors Center. We also had good hiking boots and staffs to help us as seniors. Count the steps.
While resting at the lake a squirrel tried to grab our bag of chips; several times.
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