REFRIGERATOR DRAINLINE

[SULTINI]

When I buy a new rig the drain hose from the Ref. is always routed outside through the ref. vent panel. Every time I take the panel off I have to pull that little ringed tube out then put it back when I close up. The first ting I do is figure out a way to drill a hole to the outside through the floor of the rig to put the hose in and drain it outside forever. As a matter of fact I just did my new FW today.

[SULTINI]

I don't think there's much sunlight underneath the trailer. Every entrance and exit openings are sealed.

[Blue_Hill]

SULTINI wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
I hope you sealed the hole around the hose well to keep moisture from getting into the RV through it.

How does plastic turn to powder?

From UV from the sun. Only the part of the hose that is actually outside and exposed to sunlight will deteriorate. Everything not exposed will be fine.

[BarneyS]

Fridge drain plug.

[SULTINI]

FYI, I was just organizing the paper work file for my trailer. When I got to the refrigerator section with the installation and operating instructions it actually showed a picture of and how to install the drain line out of the trailer bottom. No trying to keep the old post going just justifying it to the nay sayers of the camping world.

[SULTINI]

In my world it will work I have 6 or 7 that I converted and no problems.

Another thing , every time you open a refrigerator door you let in hot air and moisture that could cause the same thing as you are talking about. In addition cold air drops so when you route the drain line to the bottom of the coach a little bit of cold air meets the hot air and it never reaches the coils. I don't buy every video I see either like that chick from FORD making a big deal about a stupid little drain line. Just like we are. I have been in the Construction Management/HVAC business for 50 years and worked with hundreds of engineers. No need to say no more.
NOTE: When you route the drain line through the refrigerator vent the temperature is the same ambient temperature as running through the bottom of the coach. Maybe higher because the bottom of the coach is not in the sun.

[Larmoll]

Let's rephrase "in the world" with out that plastic plug your fridge will not work properly. Condensation will build up inside the fridge from air infiltrating back into the box and freezing. Check the parts listing for the correct name of that plug. It does have to or should be in place for the fridge to cool properly. Keeping large amounts of ice from building up on the inside cooling fins.

[Chris_Bryant]

The idea is that water has surface tension, and a small amount will keep a small opening sealed to air. Norcold used to crimp the end of their tubing, most people would cut the crimp off, then wonder why performance suffered, and the fins frosted faster.

[RTBabich]

Larmoll wrote:
.... It is not a check valve as we know it. That small hole in that plastic cap is sized to restrict air flow. Known in the engineering world as a check valve.

In my engineering world a "check valve" permits gases and liquids to flow in only one direction, preventing process flow from reversing. They are classified as one-way directional valves. A port with a tiny hole or restriction is a metering valve, i.e. carburetor jets. In lieu of a P trap a tiny amount of airflow is better than a lot.

[Bobbo]

Larmoll wrote:

fpresto wrote:

Larmoll wrote:
RV fridge drain tube should #1 have a plug in the end of the hose, believe it or not but that is a check valve.

I can't speak for Dometic but that is not the case for Norcold. I have a replacement 4 pack in my hand right now and they are certainly not a check valve. You can easily blow through them from either side.

That's what I thought too until I replaced it. It is not a check valve as we know it. That small hole in that plastic cap is sized to restrict air flow. Known in the engineering world as a check valve.

Air molecules are smaller than water molecules and more compressive. If water can get through, air can get through.

[SULTINI]

No way. In plan English it's a screen nothing more, to keep critters out. Why complicate things.

[Larmoll]

fpresto wrote:

Larmoll wrote:
RV fridge drain tube should #1 have a plug in the end of the hose, believe it or not but that is a check valve.

I can't speak for Dometic but that is not the case for Norcold. I have a replacement 4 pack in my hand right now and they are certainly not a check valve. You can easily blow through them from either side.

That's what I thought too until I replaced it. It is not a check valve as we know it. That small hole in that plastic cap is sized to restrict air flow. Known in the engineering world as a check valve.

[fpresto]

Larmoll wrote:
RV fridge drain tube should #1 have a plug in the end of the hose, believe it or not but that is a check valve.

I can't speak for Dometic but that is not the case for Norcold. I have a replacement 4 pack in my hand right now and they are certainly not a check valve. You can easily blow through them from either side.

[SULTINI]

I want to thank fpresto for the informative info on the drain line. I guess I am just lucky. On all the drain lines I have modified I have never had a problem with bugs or high temperature's inside the ref. I have found a great way to install the screen to keep the bugs out rather than the cheap plugs you can buy. It's from a pressure washer it is a soap screen from the tube that goes into the soap container from a pressure washer. Fits right inside the tube and a 1/2 " clamp. If anybody is going to do this MOD. I recommend highly that you inspect thoroughly the way you are routing the tube below the trailer to be sure no wires, pipes, or any vital trailer mechanical/electrical component's are in the way before you start drilling holes.

[Larmoll]

RV fridge drain tube should #1 have a plug in the end of the hose, believe it or not but that is a check valve. To let drain water out and to restrict the flow of air back into the fridge. Keeps condensation from forming and iceing up the inside of the fridge.
#2 The hose should have a slight upward bend to it. It would look much like a "P-Trap" much like the under sink trap in the kitchen and bath sink. This helps the flow and keeps the hose clean. Knitters out. This info came from an RV fridge rebuilder and Dometic Inc.