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Tip on the right tool

rickhise
Explorer
Explorer
Anybody else's have an issue with replacing the hot water tank drain plug.
My issue is keep the drain plug started in straight.
Simple I know. Lol
Perhaps a pair of vice grips would work better than a socket
28 REPLIES 28

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
I still prefer the valve. Pick your poison.
I'll take my chances with the crud crud vs. dealing with stripped threads.
In the long run the crud could be an issue. However stripped threads are an issue right away.
There are people struggling to get the plug back in the hole no thanks...
Valve keeps it easy. No struggling, finding the right toll,use your fingers etc. just open to drain close to contain.
19'Duramax w/hips,12'Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
BD3,RV safepower,22" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
SidecarFlip wrote:
Lantley wrote:
Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.


All well and good on an Atwood / Dometic. Not good on a suburban. The tank will perforate after some usage.


Not really that good on Atwood.
Atwood drain hole is only 1/2" which makes flushing crud/scale out harder.
Valve restricts opening even more so.

And those brass drain *****...1/8" hole

OK for routine DRAINING.....but flushing crud/scale need to completely remove ANY plug/valve/pet-**** and POWER Flush


As for Suburban....OEM anode is Magnesium BUT Suburban offers optional Aluminum which will work and not react with microbes that can cause that sulfur smell like the Magnesium can.


Either on....

Clean up drain hole threads using a pipe nipple (Or tap if you have one)
Atwood 1/2" NPT Brass
Suburban 3/4" NPT Steel
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Lantley wrote:
Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.


All well and good on an Atwood / Dometic. Not good on a suburban. The tank will perforate after some usage.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Atwood's take a plastic / nylon plug, Suburban takes an anode rod. Mt refernce is to a suburban with the anode rod...

While on the subject, use a genuine Surburban magnesium anode, not the Camco aluminum one. The aluminum one does not provide adequate cathodic protection to the tank.

Atwood/Dometic don't need an anode rod.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
Ditch the plugs altogether and put a valve in lieu of the plug.
Once installed no tolls required.
19'Duramax w/hips,12'Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
BD3,RV safepower,22" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide

Lar114
Explorer
Explorer
I got rid of the nylon plugs, they would be hard to get stated after I had one break off then had to cut it out in pieces with a hack saw blade.
Went to Home Depot and bought a brass plug. It starts a lot easier now with 17mm socket with a 6 inch exstention and 3/8 ratchet. Only need to snug it so it doesn't leak, also use Teflon tape. No problems.
Larry and Wife Debbie
2016 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2 Liter 3:73 Axle.
2004 Dutchmen Sport 26L 7546 lbs. Loaded.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I use a socket on my Atwood with a long extension.
Start the plug with your fingers. If threads are clean it makes it easier.
Suburbans are a pain as the anode makes them ackward t balance to get iron threads started.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

agesilaus
Explorer II
Explorer II
None of these work? Amazon
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
Do you have an Atwood or Suburban water heater? I'm guessing it must be a Suburban if you can get a socket on it.

I have not found an ideal tool for my Atwood yet. I wish someone would make a 15/16" stubby offset box end wrench (and sell it for less than the cost of a nice dinner out). Vice grips likely will chew up the end of the plug before too long.

Sometimes I find it helps in starting screws, etc. to turn them backwards a rotation or so before going forwards to get everything lined up properly and not cross-threaded, as Farmboy666 also suggested.

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
gbopp wrote:
I use my fingers to start the plug. Less chance of cross threading.


Fingers don't work with mine unless you have extremely skinny fingers, no room between the burner and the gas valve to get fingers in...
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
On a Suburban they are a PITA to get started right without cross threading. I use the needle nose vice grip method to start mine. Wrapping the nut with masking tape and shoving in the socket is another method that works.

I wonder how many get cross threaded when getting winterized and ultimately leak?
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Farmboy666
Explorer
Explorer
Make sure the threads are clean and not buggered up and turn a little counter clockwise until you feel the plug seat. It should turn easy for the first few spins before it get tighter, I use small water pump pliers.

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
I use my fingers to start the plug. Less chance of cross threading.

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
I get about three full turns using my hand. Do you?
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad