Upgrading to electric stabilizer jacks

[hfd45c9]

I am currently adding Lippert electric stabilizer jacks to our toy hauler. What is the correct way to wire the 12V DC motor to my back up batteries. They are wired in series. Any suggestions are appreciated.

[ktmrfs]

my electric stabilizer jacks are powered by a 18V dewalt cordless drill. Grandson has fun helping me and it's quick.

[AppFire]

harley4275 wrote:
Stay with manual...drill with socket is less headaches...

X2 Totally agree!!!

[harley4275]

Stay with manual...drill with socket is less headaches...

[sgfrye]

both our current TT and previous had/has electric stabilizers. i have had no problems with them. i wouldn't require them on future purchase, manual would be fine for me. lowering and raising the electric ones do give my wife something to do setting up and breaking down the camper that makes her feel important

[hfd45c9]

I already have the wiring diagram/in line fuse etc. I just want to be sure I am wiring to the back up batts. correctly. Do I connect pos./neg. to terminals on one batt. or do I need to put pos. on one batt. and neg. on a different batt.?

[crcr]

Well, our experience with electric stabilizer jacks is positive. They came on the 3 yr old TT we bought, and we have used them for 5 years now with no problems.

On our previous TT's, I did use a cordless drill for the jacks, so I have that for comparison. I probably wouldn't pay a lot extra for electric stabilizers, but I like the convenience.

[beemerphile1]

Lynnmor wrote:

ependydad wrote:
Just understand that they're less stable than anything you're replacing now.

My thought was that the title is wrong and should say: "Downgrading to electric stabilizer jacks."

The electric stabilizers are also slower than using a cordless drill with manual stabilizers.

[ependydad]

Hammerboy wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

ependydad wrote:
Just understand that they're less stable than anything you're replacing now.

My thought was that the title is wrong and should say: "Downgrading to electric stabilizer jacks."

True, our fifth wheel has them and when they **** out someday I will not be replacing them not to mention they are slooooww.

Dan

I know a U-Haul store in Lousiana that'll make short work of those rear stabilizers if you want to just go ahead and smash the s$#@@t out of them.



😄

[Hammerboy]

Lynnmor wrote:

ependydad wrote:
Just understand that they're less stable than anything you're replacing now.

My thought was that the title is wrong and should say: "Downgrading to electric stabilizer jacks."

True, our fifth wheel has them and when they **** out someday I will not be replacing them not to mention they are slooooww.

Dan

[myredracer]

Lynnmor wrote:

ependydad wrote:
Just understand that they're less stable than anything you're replacing now.

My thought was that the title is wrong and should say: "Downgrading to electric stabilizer jacks."

They shouldn't be allowed to call them "stabilizers"... :M Only thing they're good for is convenience and "our TT is better than yours".

What you'll need is a set of BAL (or other brand) stabilizer struts for your "stabilizer" jacks. We've got 'em and they help a lot.

[Lynnmor]

ependydad wrote:
Just understand that they're less stable than anything you're replacing now.

My thought was that the title is wrong and should say: "Downgrading to electric stabilizer jacks."

[ependydad]

Just understand that they're less stable than anything you're replacing now.

[myredracer]

First, check Lippert's wiring diagram. There should be a mini-breaker for each jack (like the one's in an A-frame) plus a fuse as I recall. Our breakers are mounted on the side of the frame I-beam next to the jack. Fuse is for short circuit protection and breaker is for overload protection. I think some manufacturers don't install both though (big cost savings??). On a retrofit, you can run new pos. wire up to the A-frame and use an in-line fuse there (weatherproof).

If you want to go a step further and get fancy, you could get rid of the metal 4x4 box in the A-frame, use a watertight PVC box and then install fuses & breakers in it along with splices, which is what I did.