2013 Ram 2500 6.7- pull a Montana High Country 293RK?

[bmpire]

Hello all!

Im hoping I didn't make the mistake of purchasing a truck too small.
I purchased new a 2013 Ram 2500 MegaCab Laramie 4x4 6.7 diesel with all the options and looking at ordering a 2015 Montana High Country 293RK.

I really don't want to take the hit and trade in on a 3500 SRW, and then pay sales tax on top of the trade in loss. Would leveling out with air bags be enough? Im not good with all these towing numbers, would love some help. Thanks guys!

293RK Montana High Country Specs:

9560 shipping weight
2915 carrying capacity
2075 Hitch Weight

Ram 2500 specs from my door sticker:

2015 LB : Combined weight of cargo and occupants - would like to add air bag or helper springs to level out the ride when towing.

GAWR Front: 5500 LB
GAWR Rear: 6200 LB
GVWR 10000 LB


Thanks again!

[goducks10]

Bionic Man wrote:
Contrary to prior posts, you do NOT need a DRW to pull the OPs trailer.....

Around here you do;) JMO but comfort level has a lot to do with it. Some guys just need to have the biggest baddest truck for everything.
Saying that they bought an F250 and then jumping to a DRW is a little extreme. Then to say the DRW tows so much better. Duh.

[Bionic_Man]

Contrary to prior posts, you do NOT need a DRW to pull the OPs trailer.....

[rhagfo]

laknox wrote:

rsbabson wrote:

kennethwooster wrote:
I made the mistake of buying a 2011 F250 6.7. Pulled the trailer great, but had to add airbags. I knew I was overweight and that bothered me. March 2014 we purchased a F350 DRW. No comparison in the quality of pulling. I would not go back to short bed and SRW. You will be able to pull the trailer just fine, just overweight.

Same here with my purchase of a 2013 F250 6.7l. I assumed since it was a 3/4 ton Super Duty it could pull anything. Then I started researching these forums and became educated on all of these tow ratings. Yes my truck has enough power to pull anything the dealership had on the lot. I too have airbags and they are needed for sure with my new camper. But only pulling it 2 hrs to the house from the dealership I knew I seen a dually in my future. Like I said it pulled great but stopping was way different compared to my old 5er.

If your FW is pushing you around while stopping, your brakes aren't adjusted correctly. The trailer brakes should stop the trailer...fully, and you truck should only have to stop itself.

Lyle

X2!

I like to feel the trailer brakes engage just a bit stronger than the truck, helps keep everything in a straight line!

[laknox]

rsbabson wrote:

kennethwooster wrote:
I made the mistake of buying a 2011 F250 6.7. Pulled the trailer great, but had to add airbags. I knew I was overweight and that bothered me. March 2014 we purchased a F350 DRW. No comparison in the quality of pulling. I would not go back to short bed and SRW. You will be able to pull the trailer just fine, just overweight.

Same here with my purchase of a 2013 F250 6.7l. I assumed since it was a 3/4 ton Super Duty it could pull anything. Then I started researching these forums and became educated on all of these tow ratings. Yes my truck has enough power to pull anything the dealership had on the lot. I too have airbags and they are needed for sure with my new camper. But only pulling it 2 hrs to the house from the dealership I knew I seen a dually in my future. Like I said it pulled great but stopping was way different compared to my old 5er.

If your FW is pushing you around while stopping, your brakes aren't adjusted correctly. The trailer brakes should stop the trailer...fully, and you truck should only have to stop itself.

Lyle

[rsbabson]

kennethwooster wrote:
I made the mistake of buying a 2011 F250 6.7. Pulled the trailer great, but had to add airbags. I knew I was overweight and that bothered me. March 2014 we purchased a F350 DRW. No comparison in the quality of pulling. I would not go back to short bed and SRW. You will be able to pull the trailer just fine, just overweight.

Same here with my purchase of a 2013 F250 6.7l. I assumed since it was a 3/4 ton Super Duty it could pull anything. Then I started researching these forums and became educated on all of these tow ratings. Yes my truck has enough power to pull anything the dealership had on the lot. I too have airbags and they are needed for sure with my new camper. But only pulling it 2 hrs to the house from the dealership I knew I seen a dually in my future. Like I said it pulled great but stopping was way different compared to my old 5er.

[kennethwooster]

I made the mistake of buying a 2011 F250 6.7. Pulled the trailer great, but had to add airbags. I knew I was overweight and that bothered me. March 2014 we purchased a F350 DRW. No comparison in the quality of pulling. I would not go back to short bed and SRW. You will be able to pull the trailer just fine, just overweight.

[Old-Biscuit]

jerem0621 wrote:


Hey now! I am the one that has called these payload stickers silly! LOL

Here is a picture of the payload sticker on a truck EXACTLY like the OP referenced. MegaCab 4x4 Laramie 2500 LOADED...



Thanks!

Jeremiah

Not exactly like OPs truck.......his has payload of 2015# (cargo/passengers)

This sticker..only 1790#

[goducks10]

If they're the TransForce AT's then they're good for 3640lbs @80psi each.

[jerem0621]

Bionic Man wrote:
You are going to find a lot of people here who are conservative, and adament about sticking to the manufacture numbers.

Pretty soon the RAM haters will chime in and tell you how bad the Megacab is, and it's payload is terrible.

Personally, I would look at the rear axle weight rating of the truck, and the tire capacity. IMO, those are the most important numbers, and I wouldn't want to be over either. I think you have plenty of room here.

If it was me, I would tow it and not worry at all,

Hey now! I am the one that has called these payload stickers silly! LOL

Here is a picture of the payload sticker on a truck EXACTLY like the OP referenced. MegaCab 4x4 Laramie 2500 LOADED...



Most of the time I snicker at this payload sticker because on Half Tons they are *always* calculated at around 36 PSI whereas the tires can handle 44 or 50 PSI substantially increasing the usable tire load (up to the max load on the sidewall)

I am not sure, but I am willing to bet that 80 PSI is pretty close to the max on these LT275/70R18... I may be wrong.

I'm all for using the axle ratings and all the tire ratings. But I would weigh this truck to make sure... (Just as I do with any truck)

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Bionic_Man]

You are going to find a lot of people here who are conservative, and adament about sticking to the manufacture numbers.

Pretty soon the RAM haters will chime in and tell you how bad the Megacab is, and it's payload is terrible.

Personally, I would look at the rear axle weight rating of the truck, and the tire capacity. IMO, those are the most important numbers, and I wouldn't want to be over either. I think you have plenty of room here.

If it was me, I would tow it and not worry at all,

[RBabb]

Seems like a good truck for the job to me, I'd use it

[rhagfo]

Well you are going to be over your GVWR, so I can only tell you what I do, but can't recommend it as that is your choice.

We tow a 2005 Keystone Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS with our 2001 Ram 2500.

5er
Dry 9,860#
GVWR 12,360#
Wet 11,000# (weight I tow at most of the time).

Ram 2500
GAWR Front 5,200#
GAWR Rear 6,084#
GVWR 8,800#

Last couple times we have hit the scales truck scales at 10,000#, 5er about 9,100# on the axles total GCVW 19,100#+

I worry less about GVWR than axle and tire ratings!!!!
I have 600#+ to spare on each axle. My 265/75-16E tires carry a 3,415# rating each. So I have 1,284# to spare of axle capacity and 3,660# of tire capacity.

I do a lot of towing into the Oregon Coast Range, I don't hold up traffic can pull at speed, and feel 100% safe driving the narrow two lane state highways to the coast. this with a 5.9 with 277,000 miles and less than 285HP.

The choice is yours, keep in mind if you have 17" tires, the 265/70-17E only have a 3,195# capacity each.
That and you will be over your GVWR.

That is this rig, without bags or Timbirn's



Running on roads like this at 55 to 60 mph.

[rsbabson]

I just bought a 2015 Keystone Montana Mountaineer 356TBF. I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.7l. Pulled like a champ with no problems. I will tell you that I gave myself more time to stop. It is a heavy cmper with a dry weight listed on camper at 13280 on door sticker and a GVWR of 16000. I have Firestone airbags and need them for the heavy pin weight. Knowing bout towing weights now I wish I'd went with a dually. I do plan on trading up next year sometime to an F350. Keystone website says your camper has a shipping weight of 9560lbs. Mine has a dry weight of 13280 so yeah I would say you can pull that camper allday long

[oweninthekeys]

plug your numbers in here

[powderman426]

I would tow it, and mine is an older 5.9. I see a lot of posts about stopping it. I don't know about anyone else, but my trailer came with brakes. Also the brakes on the trailer will.not only stop it, but they will stop it and the truck also. Jmo