Best chocks for auto leveling system?

[estesbubba]

We just bought a Jayco Eagle with the Lippert Ground Control 3 4-point leveling system. Is it better to use basic yellow wedge chocks or can in-between tire chocks be used (and are the better)?

[transamz9]

avvidclif1 wrote:
I have an auto-level system. Whichever way the trailer would roll on it's own determines where I put 2 chocks (on the downhill side of 2 tires, one on each side). I then put the TV in neutral and let the trailer settle against the chocks, that takes any load off the front landing gear when unhooking. Once unhooked I auto-level. If the tires are not touching the chocks, OK, the trailer is supported by 6 jacks. When getting ready to hook back up I raise the back jacks and return the front to the disconnect position. The chocks will now be in touch with the tires and keeping it from rolling downhill as I hook up.

Does your auto level not have the return to hitch feature? When I get ready to hook back up I just push the right and left arrows at the same time and it puts it back exactly where I unhooked from. The only difference is that all 6 pads stay on the ground until I auto up everything. I like that all 6 pads are still on the ground until I'm hooked up.

[drfife]

I use pair of rubber wheel chocks from Harbor Freight. I have the big yellow plastic chocks, these are better:
Rubber Wheel Chock with Eyebolt

[Mile_High]

Oh here we go again on whether the system is designed to level with the wheels off the ground 🙂

I'll be honest, I gave away my rotochoks and my leveling boards and I carry some stackable pads and yellow wheel chocks. Wheel chocks rarely if ever come out of storage. stackable pads come out when my leveling calls for wheels "up" 🙂

[avvidclif1]

I have an auto-level system. Whichever way the trailer would roll on it's own determines where I put 2 chocks (on the downhill side of 2 tires, one on each side). I then put the TV in neutral and let the trailer settle against the chocks, that takes any load off the front landing gear when unhooking. Once unhooked I auto-level. If the tires are not touching the chocks, OK, the trailer is supported by 6 jacks. When getting ready to hook back up I raise the back jacks and return the front to the disconnect position. The chocks will now be in touch with the tires and keeping it from rolling downhill as I hook up.

[kohai]

x-chocks between the tires are for stability. Their instructions say to add them AFTER you have leveled.

I use both regular chocks behind last axle and in front of first axle. Then I unhook (the trailer does move so I need those chocks there). Then we level. Then x-chocks if we're going to use them. I also have Steadyfast on my trailer.

There are times when I hook back up to the truck that one of the chocks is wedged under the tire. I have to pull forward a tad or backward to release pressure on it to loosen enough for my kid or wife to remove it.

I have to be pretty level before I use the self leveling system. The system is not designed for the wheels to be off the ground -- it needs the wheels to take some of the weight. Therefore, I use us the Andersen Camper Leveler to get the trailer almost level. These are easy to use and fast.

[transamz9]

Cdash wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you placed regular old wheel chocks in front and behind the wheels, then auto level the rig, wouldn't it potentially loosen up the chocks as load is removed (potentially) from the wheels?

Then if you snugged them up after auto leveling, then got ready to leave, the chocks would be hopelessly jammed in place?

Just asking. Haven't been out with our New camper yet that has auto leveling.

I set my wedges before I unhook and never touch them again until I hook back up. Once the six point system is on the ground it ain't going anywhere. When I return my 5er back to hook-up position the chocks are right where I put them.

[ford_truck_guy]

I place my wheel chocks - in front of the front axle , and behind the rear axle.... That eliminates the chances of mashing together . .

[shepstone]

Cdash wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you placed regular old wheel chocks in front and behind the wheels, then auto level the rig, wouldn't it potentially loosen up the chocks as load is removed (potentially) from the wheels?

Then if you snugged them up after auto leveling, then got ready to leave, the chocks would be hopelessly jammed in place?

Just asking. Haven't been out with our New camper yet that has auto leveling.

Readjust after or as it levels up if needed, You may have to nudge the rig forward and or back to get them out if they get to tight when its back down, you will want to do a pull test before removing them anyway.

[Mile_High]

That was my fear.

[Cdash]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you placed regular old wheel chocks in front and behind the wheels, then auto level the rig, wouldn't it potentially loosen up the chocks as load is removed (potentially) from the wheels?

Then if you snugged them up after auto leveling, then got ready to leave, the chocks would be hopelessly jammed in place?

Just asking. Haven't been out with our New camper yet that has auto leveling.

[Mile_High]

I gave my rotochoks to my buddy after we got the self leveling. I just keep 2 yellow wedges for when I need them. Anything between the wheels is pretty useless, as the distance between wheels changes as the leveling system works. The first time a tried it I put the Rotochoks on first and they just fell out when it leveled. I decided not to put them in after level, or they could do some damage bringing it back down if they were spread too far.

It didn't make me sad to get rid of most of that hardware.

[dedmiston]

I've been wondering this too. I've used Rotochoks for years on our bumper pull toy hauler. We're picking up a new fifth wheel this weekend and it has six point leveling. My street is on a bit of a hill and the Rotochoks worked great on the old trailer. I don't know if I'll have to use something different with the new rig.

[transamz9]

The scissor type that go between the wheels are not actually for chocking. They are for stabilizing after your unit is level. If you install the scissor type before you level front to rear you can damage them. The way they work is they use friction from both tires to keep them from rolling. when you install them and then jack the nose up or down the wheels will rotate and overpower them. If you have to raise or lower a lot it can actually break them. I have a set that I used with my previous 5th wheel that didn't have auto level. The first time I used them I installed them before unhooking. While lifting the 5er off of the truck and raising to level (had to have the nose high at this site)I started hearing some weird noises so I stopped and went looking around. The jacks had almost rotated about 1/4 turn and the corners of them were buried into the tires.

They work great for stabilizing the unit front to rear but if you just are chocking the wheels to keep from rolling use the standard wheel chocks. I no longer use the in-between type I have because the auto level on my unit does a great job of stabilizing also.

[ford_truck_guy]

plain old wheel chocks here also...

Last year was my first year with the 6 point system... The first time I used it I placed my BAL wheel crank chocks in between the wheels and tightened it up... Once it was done leveling , the chocks were so loose , I pulled them out by hand without releasing them...