Changing to disc brakes

[NuttyTexans]

Am considering having my current brakes (drum) swapped out for a disc brake system. Present systems is not very effective and I have had the brakes adjusted and checked numerous times with no improvement. Has anyone done this and were you happy with the results? Cheaper than buying a new rig and don't know what rigs would have a disc system on them. Thanks and travel safe.

[pcm1959]

Including freight to the house, right at $1900 for the entire kit including 13" disc, calipers, pads, bearings, lines and the Titan BrakeRite. All this for a direct swap to my 7k lb Dexter axles. The bearings are not Timken, however, they are China made now, too. Phillip

[C_Schomer]

"For those of you who did this upgrade for 7000lb what did the kit cost for everything to replace it." $1503 from etrailer - Kodiak 7k/13" rotors/Carlisle actuator. I will buy the lines/hoses/tees and make that stuff myself. Craig

[garyp4951]

Me Again wrote:
MaxBrake and upgrade wiring on the axles. It is hard to explain the difference the MaxBrakes makes until you tow with it.

However with factory controllers now pretty standard and getting better all the time ,it is not an issue for many. Wiring upgrades would still apply however for those with electric brakes.

Chris

I know disc are superior to drum especialy in a wet situation, but after installing a MaxBrake It feels like I just added disc brakes, so spending $350 or $1500 was not a hard decision. If I was a full time RVer I might consider the disc, but for now I am happy.
Gary

[Splashers3]

The coefficient of friction is less in the dynamic state then in the static state. Think about when you slide something across the floor. It's hard in the beginning, but once you get it sliding it actually gets easier to push. That's because the coefficient of friction goes down.

Check any physics book.

As others have said, skidding is NOT good.

[rtazz17]

sheff69 wrote:

Me Again wrote:

sheff69 wrote:

recycler wrote:
i would see about upgrading your wiring and installing new drum system is lots cheaper and easier to maintain..

It might be, but it is nowhere near as efficient.
In over 30 years and numerous trailers, with reasonably heavy trailers, I've never been able to lock up drum brakes in a panic stop.
With my Kodiaks, I can. I'd rather flat spot tires than repair damaged truck front ends.
I've always maintained my own brakes, and I'd much rather work on greasing slide pins on disk brakes, than trying to adjust drum brakes.

Sheff

Sheff I believe if you research it, that max braking occurs at a point just before the tires lock up and skid. Once the skid starts breaking power goes down quite a bit. That is why modern cars and trucks have anti lock brakes, plus the handling issue.

I trailer with locked up brake is more likely to come around on you and flip on it's side.

So lock up is not GOOD!

Chris

Opinions change, the last I read, the latest research shows that looking at braking distance alone, lock up is better than not. Vehicles with anti lock brakes are not able to stop as fast as those who can lock the wheels. The disadvantage is, you don't have as much control of steering when you are locked up. Note this was on dry or damp roads.
Snow is another matter but with a trailer if I have to worry about snow, I'm in the wrong state.

However, with a large trailer behind me, my steering options are very limited anyway. I don't think I'm going to be swerving hard to miss someone, or taking to the shoulder or grass with my trailer behind me. That would be an invitation to wipe out.

However, I'll take my chances with locked wheels on the trailer. If I had a way, I'd disable the ABS on the truck too. ABS causes more problems than it solves.

Sheff

I couldnt agree with you less.In a skid you are sliding to a stop and not very quickly.In a hard controlled braking you slow down much quicker.There is no disputing that.Factual.You may " feel" better by skidding but the fact of the matter is you are not slowing faster by skidding.

[greende]

soling2003 wrote:
For those of you who did this upgrade for 7000lb what did the kit cost for everything to replace it. I'm thinking of doing it, but I'll probably check on the wires and magnets first. I've seen a few of the heavier trailers where the electric brakes work just fine, locking up on dry pavement until we adjust the gain on them. If I can get mine to do that, that would be good enough for me. If not, then probably go for the disc brakes.

and by the way, whoever said that the new theory of locking the brakes up is better than not is wrong. It is true that a good driver can out brake someone who just stomps on a set of ABS brakes. But a locked up and skidding set of tires does not stop faster than a set that is braking hard right up to the point of locking up.

I say that as a emergency rig driving instructor.

I must say I'm lucky. My Cougar 293SAB stops fine with the OEM brakes. I plan to upgrade the wires but do not plan any other changes for now. Our next 5er will be our retirement though, and I plan to outfit it with disc from the factory along with MorRyde suspension.

[kirbybear]

F350 04 with BrakeRite / Kodiak Disc and old BrakeSmart , installed since 07. Truck and trailer stop at about the same rate as the truck alone. Zero time lag. Only addition I would recommend is to put Timken bearings in from the get go. The disc kit come with not the best bearings.

[soling2003]

For those of you who did this upgrade for 7000lb what did the kit cost for everything to replace it. I'm thinking of doing it, but I'll probably check on the wires and magnets first. I've seen a few of the heavier trailers where the electric brakes work just fine, locking up on dry pavement until we adjust the gain on them. If I can get mine to do that, that would be good enough for me. If not, then probably go for the disc brakes.

and by the way, whoever said that the new theory of locking the brakes up is better than not is wrong. It is true that a good driver can out brake someone who just stomps on a set of ABS brakes. But a locked up and skidding set of tires does not stop faster than a set that is braking hard right up to the point of locking up.

I say that as a emergency rig driving instructor.

[C_Schomer]

The 12 x 2 brakes on our new-to-us 5er are just as bad as the previous 5er I put so much work into, trying to make the brakes worth a spit. I'm fairly sure I will go see Mr. Kodiak at Quartzite!

[Cummins12V98]

Slownsy wrote:
With hydraulics the lines are best being run in metal lines and only use reinforced rubber lines from axles to brake cylinder.

That is exactly what we did on my Dad's conversion. Only rubber is the lines to the calipers.

[Slownsy]

With hydraulics the lines are best being run in metal lines and only use reinforced rubber lines from axles to brake caliber and from van to axle.

[Cummins12V98]

We just finished the install of Kodiak Disk brakes on my Dad's 34'HH Premier. His TV is a 2012 Ram Dually with factory brake controller.

We took it for a test run to burn in the pads. He set the EVIC for heavy hydraulic and had the gain on 7. Took it up to 40 and applied the brakes firmly and smoked the trailer tires. Set to 5 and did the same thing, he settled on 3 and the truck and trailer stopped seamlessly just like my truck and trailer do with a MaxBrake controller.

He is thrilled with the way the brakes work! Said it was well worth the money.

[pcm1959]

If anyone is concerned about lag time with the BrakeRite:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koNe1VmzSgE

[pcm1959]

Thanks to Mike Stanbro for that awesome write-up!
My Kodiak conversion is on order and I will be doing it to our Cameo in September. I can't wait!
On the subject of delay time, the Kodiak rep I am dealing with says that with the BrakeRite and proper sized lines, the delay time is virtually immeasurable to nil. He told me to be sure that the main line was no smaller than 1/4 inch. The larger line would help in reducing any lag.
Thanks again for a great report. Phillip