Clearance problems

[buck_n_duck]

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 2500 4x4 and 33’ trailer. I have right at 6.5 inches of clearance between the top of the truck bed rails and the bottom of the trailer. The trailer is riding nose high (not too bad though) but my biggest concern is that my rear jacks aren’t very high off the ground and I figure it is just a matter of time before I drag them. Very nervous about tearing something up. I have looked and it does not appear that I can raise the jacks any higher on the frame. What other options do I have?

[buck_n_duck]

Ok so a change in the situation. I just got a new Ram 2500. 4x4 and it seems to sit higher than my other truck did. The ground where I am working is not level so maybe it is not as bad as I think it is. I have the OEM puck system in the bed of my truck. The Reese hitch adapter is 2” tall. My 5th wheel hitch is as low as it will go. I raised the pin box as high as it will go. I moved it up 2 holes on the front and back but it looks really awkward and now am also concerned about how low the back of the pin box is. I have not turned real sharp to check it but wonder if it will hit the side of the bed. I have 5” of clearance above the tailgate and almost 8” of clearance at the front of the 5’r above the bed rails. It is not even close to level. Now I don’t know right now the height of my trailer but I would be nervous about lifting it in any way due to clearance. I am at a loss and not happy at all, what are my options? As stated above the axles are already below the springs. Going to hook up this weekend and it tow it to a level parking lot. Guess I will take some tools to try and do some adjusting. Going to be tough work with no impact.

[laknox]

buck n duck wrote:
My axles are already below the springs. It came from the factory that way. My stabilizers/jacks are electric automatic leveling and are placed right behind my rear tires.

I'm in the same boat, especially after the town where I store my rig allowed the new street going in to be about 2' higher than the old dirt road. Now, we've got that 2' drop in about 12' to our gate. I have about 3" clearance as I drop down into our yard. I =did= have someone watch the first time I went in and I was good to go. I was a lot more worried about our 30' 3-axle flatbed GN trailer going in and out and, even with a 7k lb tractor on the trailer, we had plenty of clearance. Double-check that you don't have any extra holes in the spring hangers where you could drop the springs down a bit.

Lyle

[ol_Bombero-JC]

ChadHubbard wrote:
This was my fix. Probably not for everyone.

Nope.....nice, but not for everyone.

WAY less $ to do a sub-frame.....and in some states, a flat bed on *any* truck (inc'l pickups) is req'd to stop at scales.

Whatever rings your chimes - and levels your trailer..:C

~

[troubledwaters]

While parked on level ground, with the trailer level, Tie a string from the bottom of your rear tire to the lowest point at the very back of the trailer. Then stand back and look at it. That is the same grade as the driveway you would have to go down to drag anything. Its probably a lot steeper than you think it is, and chances are, the jacks aren't projecting below the string.

[ChadHubbard]

This was my fix. Probably not for everyone.

[azrving]

buck n duck wrote:
My axles are already below the springs. It came from the factory that way. My stabilizers/jacks are electric automatic leveling and are placed right behind my rear tires.

Since they are already below the axle, in order to get a larger amount of lift you are probably looking at a subframe. You can get small amounts of lift from tires, shackles, correct tracking or spacers which I would not recommend. Again, easy thing to do is pull it on to some lumber and you can stand back and see it and put a level on it. I know what you mean about dragging tail. Some parking lots and fuel stops have ridiculous built in problems.

[Super_Dave]

buck n duck wrote:
My stabilizers/jacks are electric automatic leveling and are placed right behind my rear tires.

I think mine look low also but they are close enough to the rear tires that the trailer would essentially have to pop a wheelie to touch anything.

[jjj]

I have seen people use a product called correct track which is used for alignment of trailer axles but will also give as much as 2 inch lift without changing the axle alignment if used just for a small lift. Might be something to look at.

[buck_n_duck]

My axles are already below the springs. It came from the factory that way. My stabilizers/jacks are electric automatic leveling and are placed right behind my rear tires.

[pyoung47]

I've been reading this forum for over a decade. When I first began reading and researching trailers, a good number were built with the axle above the springs. Many folks were still towing with two wheel drives and even conventional vehicles. The "axle flip" was an easy fix to height issues. I've seen no modern 5th wheels today that the axles are below the springs. The "axle flip" oft referenced is probably not feasible unless you are pulling an antique.

[BB_TX]

Scissor type rear stabilizers? Replace with the telescopic type stabilizers. They don’t hang down as far.

[azrving]

Pull the FW on to some lumber until it's level or not as low in back. Measure the lumber and you know how much lift you need and then explore which options you have to lift it.

Shackles, axle truing kit, axle flip, tires, sub frame etc.

[sayoung]

SidecarFlip wrote:
Flip the trailer axles to get more height.

X2

[SidecarFlip]

Flip the trailer axles to get more height.