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factory correct track lift options

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
Here's my dilemma:

My 5'er runs nose high and I need to lift the rear. I recently had a hitch installed on the rear and the welder quoted me about $1,000 to build a subframe to lift it. He then said the correct track kit would work for what I wanted to do.

I know it is a very common upgrade for people looking for a lift and he said the kit is stout enough and would handle my needs no problem (double towing my boat behind the 5'er).

I ordered the kit, watched a few videos, jacked up the 5'er, dropped the axles, and started to plan out my drilling when I had the DUH!!! moment.

I have correct track from the factory so my factory hangers have the little wings that the adjusting cam fit into to so the bolts will be too short and the bracket won't fit.

My thought is to get my grinder and cut off the little wings on each bracket. Two questions/concerns:

1) Will cutting the wings off change any structural integrity? I do not think so as the wings start about 1" from the top of the hanger.

2) Due to it already having correct track hangers the lower of the two bracket bolts will have the slotted bolt hole where the factory cam piece fit in. Will this allow the bracket to swing out or cause any concern?

I like the idea of adding aftermarket correct track brackets to get a little lift, being able to do the work myself, and saving the money so I can upgrade to 16" wheels with LT tires, but I do not want to have problems down the road.

Any suggestions?
Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245
8 REPLIES 8

routemaster
Explorer
Explorer

This is what I had planed on doing would beef it up get fab shop to make up a taller U chanel what ever hight you need and weld in the Corect Track channel.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
okan-star wrote:
Call Sonny at 574-370-4515 or 866-403-9803 ,he`s the guy who invented it , and is the tech assistance for it
What kind of equalizers do you have you may get a little lift with Morides


Thanks for the contact. If any one would know he should :B

I have Dexter EquaFlex suspension.
Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245

okan-star
Explorer
Explorer
Call Sonny at 574-370-4515 or 866-403-9803 ,he`s the guy who invented it , and is the tech assistance for it
What kind of equalizers do you have you may get a little lift with Morides

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
I think the 2" will get me either right on or close. It rides fine as it is right now. I will also upgrade the wheels/tires, for 1/2" to 1" more lift.

Here are some pictures. My thought is grind off the lip on the factory hangers, bolt up the new hanger extenders, and then weld the edges together once bolted up. My only concern is the factory hanger hole where the bolt goes through is slotted (same as the bottom slot of the aftermarket hanger) but there is no cam to hold it in place. I think the welding will take care of that.





Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Suspension blocks on a trailer with std leaf spring suspension isn't a wise idea.

Spring hangers/std U bolts are stressed enough while side scrubbing around corners. Now add longer U bolts and the leverage in that area becomes even more stressed.
Just one reason axle makers/trailer manufacturers don't offer them as a option.

One member added 2" suspension blocks...... but he went with 5/8" U bolts/heavier top plates and also upgraded to heavier spring keepers. If you go this route do your homework. Neither of my area big rig trailer repair shops will add blocks to a trailer with close spaced axles like a rv or a std flatdeck trailer.

I use the sub frame or use 5/16 or 3/8 steel plate spring hangers welded to the sides of the main frame rails. The plates are long enough and have a couple of holes drilled to raise or lower the trailer. Some rv trailers come OEM with the adjustable side plates.

The trailer in your picture looks like it has plenty of room between the tires and at the top of the wheel well.
Dexter says a 1" minimum between the tires. I like 2 3/4" min at the top of the tires on 3.5k to 8k axles.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
1" blocks and tire upgrade.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
How far out of level are you,? Correct Track is only good for 2", if are out more than that likely a sub-frame is the only answer. The tire upgrade is worth almost an inch.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Pictures of what you have (factory set up) and what you want to 'modify' would sure help.


Correct Track will not only align axles but give a 2" lift. Is that 2" enough to bring 5vr level?

What size tires/wheels are on 5vr now?
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31