Is This Enough Truck for 5th Wheel??

[Nabs17]

Hey guys,

Newbie here and would like any advice from all the vet's out there.

The wife and I just (impulsively) purchased a 5th wheel a week ago and to let you know how impulsive it was...I don't own a truck nor do I have place to store it yet. 🙂

So I'm tracking down both activities but for this question I need to know if the truck I'm considering is enough.

First, background on the 5th wheel. It's a Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8281WS. It's roughly 8600lb's empty. It has 3 water tanks which total (roughly) 2100lbs.

You can see it here on this youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fP0X_tgnFmE

Now the truck. What I've been reading is I (believe) I want a diesel engine and 4x4. Now the truck I'm considering has that but (and this is where I need your input) it has:

Cylinder configuration: I-6

Torque: 660 lb.-ft. @ 1,500RPM

So I'm not sure if a 6 cylinder engine is enough to pull the 5th wheel we purchased.

So let me know what you all think or if you have any additional questions of me.

Thanks in advance for your time and input.

Namon

[2012Coleman]

If you get a dually, then yopu almost have to get the long bed. Short bed duallys look absolutely silly!

[JIMNLIN]

op wrote:
So I'm tracking down both activities but for this question I need to know if the truck I'm considering is enough. First, background on the 5th wheel. It's a Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8281WS. It's roughly 8600lb's empty.

The 2500 I-6 Cummins in a Dodge/Ram will do fine for your 10k gvwr trailer. I have a '03 Dodge/Cummins I-6 and pulls a 11000+ lb 5th wheel rv trailer and tri axle GN trailers and others up to 160000 lbs with the truck.
I see a new 8280WS has around 8700 lb dry weight and around 1300 CCC = 10k gvwr trailer which means around a 2000 lb pin weight.

Gas or diesel Dodge/Ram trucks have a 6000-6500 lb rawr for carrying payloads in the beds. These trucks rear axle may weigh in the 2800-3000 lb ranges leaving any where from a 3000 lb up to 3500 lb payload.....all depending on which rawr you have.

Non of the 2500 Dodge/Ram I-6 Cummins diesel trucks will have any issues pulling or carrying hitch loads with that size 5th wheel rv trailer. Good match up.

[Dave_H_M]

Only somebody who has never owned the "proper" setup for their RV would recommend different.

I don't intend to start a gas vs diesel war or something like you cannot tow comfortably without a diesel. I am not going to comment further on this post.

But I dare say that your statement is very biased. i tow with the 3/4 ton gasser and that is the proper set up for ME. Prior i towed with a diesel for 13 years.

To me the proper set up is what tows the load safely and within specified limits and also what fits into the needs and overall usage of the vehicle for the person who owns it.

[tdsxt51]

goducks10 wrote:
You absolutely need a 3500 SRW if you're going diesel. The heavy diesels take away 800-1000lbs from the payload. A 2500 diesel will have 2000-2200lbs for payload. A 2500 gasser will have 3000lbs+/- for payload.
Everything that goes in or on the truck counts against payload. You and the wife and whoever else need to be subtracted from the payload. Also the 5th hitch. Any other tools, camping gear etc, also needs to be subtracted from the payload.
You 5th wheel has a dry pin around 1450lbs. Add a 5th hitch, 2 batteries and propane and you added about 350lbs. So that pin weight is now 1800lbs. Add up all the stuff you'll put in the front storage compartment as well as in the front bedroom and that could easily be another 200+lbs. Now you're at 2000lbs.
Add up you and the wife and all else that goes in the truck and add that to the 2000lbs. Now subtract that from the trucks payload rating.
You'll be over the trucks payload rating when all said and done with a 2500 diesel.
If you get a Ram 3500 diesel you'll have around 4000lbs+/- for payload. Then you can take what you want and be safe.

As a side not, to check the trucks payload you'll want to look on the door jamb. There will be a sticker showing it.

Totally disagree. Not with that trailer. I don't know where you get your numbers, but a 2500 will easily pull that trailer (and legally also) with room to spare. You don't even need to upgrade to a 3500 unless you have future plans for a bigger trailer. With the 3500 you're pretty much paying for a leaf-spring suspension system as opposed to coil springs on the 2500, and a few other goodies. That's why the price is so close between the two. Again- don't let these weight police guys scare you. That trailer is advertised as "half-ton towable", though I wouldn't want to tow it with a half ton. And if you're going to be doing some serious traveling at all, you're gonna want a 4WD, and you definitely don't want a gasser. Cross country, up and down major grades and hills, pulling for any distance to speak of- you want a diesel. Only somebody who has never owned the "proper" setup for their RV would recommend different.

[rhagfo]

tinner12002 wrote:

IdaD wrote:
I've got a daughter in the hospital right now and have been in and out of the parking garage there a bunch the last couple of days. Those who say just go long bed and not compromise with a short bed must not go into these spaces very often. And my truck is a Ram with a comparatively tight turning radius. Make it a Super Duty and the problem is compounded.

We get along just fine with our short bed fiver combo. Yeah I have to pay attention in certain scenarios but it works great and tows down the highway very smoothly. Really it just boils down to how you use the truck. If mine were just for towing I'd have a long bed dually. It isn't used just for towing, though, and long bed duallys are worse at literally every other thing I use my truck for.

No truck is ideal for everyone but as you mentioned you have to pay attention to what's around you, whether its a dually long bed or a SRW short bed you learn to adjust driving/parking accordingly.

X2!
If you drive it daily, you should get use to it. If you THINK it is big and unwieldy then it always will be. If you think it isn't big and unwieldy, then you will be doing parallel parking in the middle of downtown. Reminds me of the saying my dad used on me, "Can't never did anything until he tried".

[Cummins12V98]

IdaD wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I always recommend long bed trucks. I have spent mort time in Hospital and Med Center parking lots than most people with our RAM Dually.

A parking lot is different than a parking garage, and if you're in Nowhere, USA parking a big truck is generally not a problem. You're also a full timer retired guy and that's a different ballgame compared to a middle aged family guy like myself who uses my truck to commute and haul the kids around to appointments, swim lessons and etc. I'm not complaining cause I'm in no hurry to be in your shoes, but we have very different criteria.

I agree everyone is different but I just like to point out having a Dually really is not that big of deal. Yes a SRW is easier, heck a Yugo is even easier!

My typical parking style with the Dually.

[tinner12002]

IdaD wrote:
I've got a daughter in the hospital right now and have been in and out of the parking garage there a bunch the last couple of days. Those who say just go long bed and not compromise with a short bed must not go into these spaces very often. And my truck is a Ram with a comparatively tight turning radius. Make it a Super Duty and the problem is compounded.

We get along just fine with our short bed fiver combo. Yeah I have to pay attention in certain scenarios but it works great and tows down the highway very smoothly. Really it just boils down to how you use the truck. If mine were just for towing I'd have a long bed dually. It isn't used just for towing, though, and long bed duallys are worse at literally every other thing I use my truck for.

No truck is ideal for everyone but as you mentioned you have to pay attention to what's around you, whether its a dually long bed or a SRW short bed you learn to adjust driving/parking accordingly.

[IdaD]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I always recommend long bed trucks. I have spent mort time in Hospital and Med Center parking lots than most people with our RAM Dually.

A parking lot is different than a parking garage, and if you're in Nowhere, USA parking a big truck is generally not a problem. You're also a full timer retired guy and that's a different ballgame compared to a middle aged family guy like myself who uses my truck to commute and haul the kids around to appointments, swim lessons and etc. I'm not complaining cause I'm in no hurry to be in your shoes, but we have very different criteria.

[Cummins12V98]

I always recommend long bed trucks. I have spent mort time in Hospital and Med Center parking lots than most people with our RAM Dually.

[IdaD]

I've got a daughter in the hospital right now and have been in and out of the parking garage there a bunch the last couple of days. Those who say just go long bed and not compromise with a short bed must not go into these spaces very often. And my truck is a Ram with a comparatively tight turning radius. Make it a Super Duty and the problem is compounded.

We get along just fine with our short bed fiver combo. Yeah I have to pay attention in certain scenarios but it works great and tows down the highway very smoothly. Really it just boils down to how you use the truck. If mine were just for towing I'd have a long bed dually. It isn't used just for towing, though, and long bed duallys are worse at literally every other thing I use my truck for.

[tinner12002]

lc0338 wrote:
If this is your first RV then you might want to consider it your starter and after you have it a couple years you might want an upgrade. Best is to get a bigger truck then needed now for future growth. I would choose a 3500 (1 ton) over a 2500 (3/4 ton) personally when pulling a 5er, but that may just be me. I actually went from a 3500 RAM to 5500 RAM when I upgraded. Trucks are a lot of money so don't get stuck with a truck that can't handle the load 🙂

Yes a 3500 would be better, dual rear wheel or DRW even better yet but for the 5ver OP will be pulling a SRW 3500 would be a great all around truck.
I also looked at the 4500-5500 Ram series trucks but didn't like the idea that on those 2 models they detuned them to a lesser HP and Torq.

[lc0338]

2012Coleman wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I agree on the small difference in actual capacity. BUT, I would go 3500 with Aisin and factory rear air ride. You get more power also and the ability to adjust your tires to what YOU want.

GVWR numbers are for licensing and insurance purposes!!!

So why do you recommend a long bed in an earlier post on this thread? Stability? Longbeds belonging to people where I work have to park in the way back 40 where they can take up 2 spaces.

Yes, long beds do have a little harder time in small parking lots but when you have a truck for towing there are trade offs. Long bed translates to longer wheel base and "better smoother ride". Also, when pulling a 5th wheel, sometimes you get in tight spaces and need to jack knife the trailer. With a short bed some people have crashed the trailer into the cab... Not saying you can't pull with short bed but requires more attention to detail.

[2012Coleman]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I agree on the small difference in actual capacity. BUT, I would go 3500 with Aisin and factory rear air ride. You get more power also and the ability to adjust your tires to what YOU want.

GVWR numbers are for licensing and insurance purposes!!!

So why do you recommend a long bed in an earlier post on this thread? Stability? Longbeds belonging to people where I work have to park in the way back 40 where they can take up 2 spaces.

[Njmurvin]

I have 4wd and live in SoCal - so it doesn't get much use. But I find it especially useful when maneuvering my trailer into its storage space alongside my house. I have to crawl up a curb across a loose dirt horse trail and then up a small slope to my driveway to get the right angle of attack. I drop into 4LO and I can slowly creep up and over the curb and up to my driveway without hesitation. When attempting this in 2wd, trying to get up the curb was not fun (and probably not good for the trans) - high revving to overcome the torque converter stall.

[laknox]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

lc0338 wrote:
I would not have a diesel engine truck without 4 wheel drive. They are helpless on soft ground if a little slick when empty. If you never unhook your 5er and/or never get off payment or solid roadway's or ice/snow then maybe you can get by with 2 wheel drive only

Then you would not like riding with me in my QC Longbed 3500 CTD 4X2 when we unhook and go 'adventuring'

4X4 is false confidence and just means farther to walk to get help :B

Grew up in WY/UT and only had 1 4X4...all other trucks were 2wd
Yes diesel up front is heavy but so is 460 cast iron V8

Drivers ability/judgement is more important then 4wd

I'll never have another truck without 4wd, unless it's a delivery truck here in Phoenix. It makes a =huge= difference on even a fairly good dirt road. Don't know about you, but hitting a section of washboard at anything over about 10 mph in an empty truck, is d@mn uncomfortable and can be unsafe, especially on corners, where the rear-end can easily step out on you. Even towing my FW up to our boondock site near Stoneman Lake, I'll run in 4wd on the dirt. Makes a noticeable difference in the ride. Since part of the road we go in on is also not in great condition, I'll drop to 4LO. I don't =need= it, but being able to creep over that 100 yard rocky section makes like, and the DW, a lot easier.

Lyle