Leveling for Towing???

[bowler1]

Hi,
This is a followup to one of my previous posts. Just recently got my first 5th wheel. Dealer set it up pretty nose high despite claiming it was okay and telling me that it would level out with so weight in it.

It towed a bit better when I got some weight in it but was still noticeably high in the front. I lowered my hitch down to the lowest setting and it is still a bit high in the front; although a lot better. It seems to tow pretty well too.

I am going to be loading a good deal more weight in it (we are going to be living full time for a while). Should this help to level it out? Seems to me that it might, but only if the truck starts to squat so I don't know if it would still be nose high in that case. Or do I just need to raise the pin box? That sounds like a PIA, but I do have room to raise it a notch.

thanks for your help

Matt

[valhalla360]

Dayle1 wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:


Nose high by a couple inches has no appreciable impact on pin weight. The geometry just doesn't allow it to change the pin weight much.

If it gets excessive, it may impact the distribution between the two trailer axles but for modest amounts, it won't be significant as the suspension is designed to adjust for minor differences.

Static weight on each axle is not the entire issue. You are right, the equalizer will compensate for a nose high condition. But in doing so, remaining suspension travel for the rear axle is reduced. The increased shock stress while towing will reduce lifespan on all of the suspension from hangers, bolts, leaf springs, wheel bearings, wheels and tires.

The equalizer is a suspension component and not intended to compensate for the trailer being un-level.

And that's why I specifically said "for modest amounts". A 1 inch nose high condition will have no measurable impact on the suspension operation and durability.

If you are 12 inches nose high, you are far beyond a "modest amount".

[Dayle1]

valhalla360 wrote:


Nose high by a couple inches has no appreciable impact on pin weight. The geometry just doesn't allow it to change the pin weight much.

If it gets excessive, it may impact the distribution between the two trailer axles but for modest amounts, it won't be significant as the suspension is designed to adjust for minor differences.

Static weight on each axle is not the entire issue. You are right, the equalizer will compensate for a nose high condition. But in doing so, remaining suspension travel for the rear axle is reduced. The increased shock stress while towing will reduce lifespan on all of the suspension from hangers, bolts, leaf springs, wheel bearings, wheels and tires.

The equalizer is a suspension component and not intended to compensate for the trailer being un-level.

[dapperdan]

The higher the nose is on your trailer the more weight transfer there will be to the rear axel. THAT could become an issue if not corrected, tire wear and extra stress on that part of your suspension on your trailer. Just my 2 cents though.....

I would look into getting your unit level, either raising your trailer or lowering your pinbox when towing if it were me.

Dan

[valhalla360]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Nose high can cause 'chucking' issues due to light pin weight
Nose high can place more wear/tear on trailer rear tires/axle
Nose high can cause swaying due to light pin weight

Best to tow level

So how much bed rail clearance do you currently have?
How HIGH is current nose high situation?

Nose high by a couple inches has no appreciable impact on pin weight. The geometry just doesn't allow it to change the pin weight much.

If it gets excessive, it may impact the distribution between the two trailer axles but for modest amounts, it won't be significant as the suspension is designed to adjust for minor differences.

Assuming you truck already squats an inch or two with the trailer empty, I wouldn't count on another 2-3 inches of squat unless your truck is significantly overloaded, so unless you are darn close to level, don't count on additional squat to solve the issue.

[ACZL]

What kind and tonnage of truck as well as what brand/model of 5er will help us better help you.

[NMDriver2]

If your axles are carrying about the same weight on each one then you are fine, if you have enough bed clearance. Nose high or low is not as critical as weight distribution between the axles. Load it up and go to the scales then decide what if any adjustment to make.

[azrving]

Pull the FW tires up onto lumber until it is level. Then measure how much rail clearance it has. I think most people want 6 in or more. Just say it was at 6 in then measure the amount of wood under the fw tires and that's the amount of lift you need to come up with to level the fw.

If the rail clearance is not enough then you need to adjust the pin box and add even more lumber under the fw tires. It's not unusual to need an axle flip. If that is already done then you may need a sub frame. You need to come up with the numbers and then look at your options. Ideally you would like to be near your final weight when doing this.

Larger tires, correct track, minor shackle lengthen, axle flip, sub frame and some will even suggest a spacer between the spring pack and axle when they have already been flipped. I wouldn't use those but some do.

[ljr]

I have rear axle bags for just that reason. My TV is more than adequate for the weight but the bags keep things level.

[Old-Biscuit]

Nose high can cause 'chucking' issues due to light pin weight
Nose high can place more wear/tear on trailer rear tires/axle
Nose high can cause swaying due to light pin weight

Best to tow level

So how much bed rail clearance do you currently have?
How HIGH is current nose high situation?

[MFL]

If you are more than 1-2 inches nose high yet, I would raise the pin box. You don't mention what your bed rail clearance is, but best to have at least 6"s.
If the truck squats an inch or two, that will help too. Towing a little nose high really is not an issue.

Jerry

[memtb]

To maintain adequate distance between truck bed-rail and 5er nose.....you may need to raise the trailer at the axles, by whatever means that will work best with your RV design.