lifting camper

[michigancougar]

need advice on adding blocks above the axles on the camper to level it - concerned about back bumper dragging on camper or refrigerator not working right at this angle . . . what have others done with this problem? if adding blocks how much can you add without problems - we plan on driving to alaska in 5 years with this rig

[AZ_T_T]

Here are some photos of my subframe. I had it done 3 1/2 years ago.

[dezl_dr]

The first setup they welded across the ends of the subframe. That's not a great idea. You should never weld across a frame flange.
If you look at how the factory adds tubing to the bottom of an ibeam, it's stitch welded down each side. That lets it flex without creating a stress point.
The second why looks better buy an xbrace between them and stitch welds the sides would certainly help.

I added some tubing to an rv years ago, 1.5 inch square. Stitch welded the sides and reattached the hangers. tow another 7 years or so and it was fine.

But we all know rv frames never crack or have trouble anyway right?

[JIMNLIN]

I would watch the thin I beam main frame for cracking/bending next to where the old spring hangers are welded. That is a very high stress area now.
If thats the case he may have to box the I beam in the spring hanger area.
Good looking welds and job.

[wuhungsix]

SteveB wrote:
wuhungsix,
I like the way your guy did the subframe.

Thanks. I'm very pleased with his work.

[SteveB]

wuhungsix,
I like the way your guy did the subframe.

[wuhungsix]

I was in same boat as you a few months ago and went with the Sub-frame build over the Correct Track.

I thought I only need 2 inches but I was way wrong. My fab guy said I needed 6 inches and I am glad I trusted his judgment. I asked him to put extra holes in the new shackles for additional adjust too. It worked out great. Cost me $750 and I was more than happy to pay that after I got a quote for the Correct Track installed at over $1000.

I also upgraded from 15" ST tires to 16" LT tires which gained me another one inch in height.

Here was my thread on upgrading tires and adding the sub frame.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28055166.cfm

[michigancougar]

and I thought my 6" lift was a lot - wow

[michigancougar]

well back in line to use wfreeth lift method at the welding shop just have to wait my turn to get in. did score a set of steps today for after the lift - got the 4 step for a discount - heck bought 2 just in case my friend needs one.

[michigancougar]

Thanks Clif - they will be custom making them for this application so that should not be a problem. handy having them 20 miles away - my contact said I will be picking them up directly at the factory

[avvidclif1]

Just remember the axles are arched. When you turn them over the arch is upside down. Tell Dexter what you are doing and have them set up correctly.

[michigancougar]

just thinking killing 2 birds by getting all new running gear and adding the 4" height - maybe more because the old springs are so straight from being at their max capacity for 10 years

[AZ_T_T]

I put bigger axles on our old TT, because the originals were undersized. I was very happy with the bigger brakes and wheels. I didn't do it for the height.

[michigancougar]

any thoughts or has anyone else done this?

[michigancougar]

kinda back tracking now - seems I have an in on new axles can get custom dexter axles with a 4" drop - turn them for a 4" lift - no welding and get most of the way there (gain 4" at the axles and already dropped the hitch 1.5 " with lower feet). new axles, springs, brakes, bearings, etc. made about 15 miles from me. I like the welding mod but will be looking at replacing 10 yr old bearings and brakes anyways so this one is looking promising. pretty sure I may gain more as the original axles on this trailer are 3500 lb and the springs are straight under load now . . . . heavier sprints won't flatten so much. I remember reading about the tires and axles being too small for this camper models years ago when I was researching everything else. adding the heavier running gear would be safer in the long run when we can finally do the drive to alaska