โSep-08-2014 06:50 PM
โSep-09-2014 06:06 PM
โSep-09-2014 05:25 PM
โSep-09-2014 03:54 PM
laknox wrote:Mile High wrote:laknox wrote:I have to completely disagree with you Lyle - and I'm not alone. Check the boat forums - A surge brake working "perfectly" is actually applying brakes all the way down a steep pass like I-70 or Wolf Creek, as if you were riding the brakes. Many Colorado boat trailer shops offer the electric conversion as a fix - with the superior fix being electric over disk hydraulic. A surge brake does not know how to discriminate. I bet if you checked the temp your Dad's brakes were overheating. I got tired of having to replace the bearing buddies or grease caps because they typically flew off when the grease got too hot.
The brakes on my dad's 20' Reinell trailer don't overheat when going down a grade. Surge brakes, in good working order, =should= have some sort of device that puts some back-pressure on the cylinder to keep this from happening. If it didn't, you couldn't even back up. We had an old water-wagon with surge brakes that =didn't= have this feature and had to make a U-shaped collar to slip into the slide to be able to back the trailer up since any movement backwards would lock up the brakes.
Lyle
If you like your surge brakes in Arizona - keep em!
Again, how do you back up if there's not some resistance built in? Our boat trailer seems to work just fine, with no signs of overheating. I guess YM =does= V. ๐
Lyle
โSep-09-2014 03:03 PM
Mile High wrote:laknox wrote:I have to completely disagree with you Lyle - and I'm not alone. Check the boat forums - A surge brake working "perfectly" is actually applying brakes all the way down a steep pass like I-70 or Wolf Creek, as if you were riding the brakes. Many Colorado boat trailer shops offer the electric conversion as a fix - with the superior fix being electric over disk hydraulic. A surge brake does not know how to discriminate. I bet if you checked the temp your Dad's brakes were overheating. I got tired of having to replace the bearing buddies or grease caps because they typically flew off when the grease got too hot.
The brakes on my dad's 20' Reinell trailer don't overheat when going down a grade. Surge brakes, in good working order, =should= have some sort of device that puts some back-pressure on the cylinder to keep this from happening. If it didn't, you couldn't even back up. We had an old water-wagon with surge brakes that =didn't= have this feature and had to make a U-shaped collar to slip into the slide to be able to back the trailer up since any movement backwards would lock up the brakes.
Lyle
If you like your surge brakes in Arizona - keep em!
โSep-09-2014 02:30 PM
โSep-09-2014 12:02 PM
โSep-09-2014 10:27 AM
RAS43 wrote:agesilaus wrote:
Your state will have regulations/laws on what they require. Usually trailers above a certain weight must have brakes
X2 Good advice. My boat/trailer weighs 2450lbs and here it does not require brakes and I have never felt the need for them. I am under GCVWR with my double rig.
โSep-09-2014 08:50 AM
laknox wrote:I have to completely disagree with you Lyle - and I'm not alone. Check the boat forums - A surge brake working "perfectly" is actually applying brakes all the way down a steep pass like I-70 or Wolf Creek, as if you were riding the brakes. Many Colorado boat trailer shops offer the electric conversion as a fix - with the superior fix being electric over disk hydraulic. A surge brake does not know how to discriminate. I bet if you checked the temp your Dad's brakes were overheating. I got tired of having to replace the bearing buddies or grease caps because they typically flew off when the grease got too hot.
The brakes on my dad's 20' Reinell trailer don't overheat when going down a grade. Surge brakes, in good working order, =should= have some sort of device that puts some back-pressure on the cylinder to keep this from happening. If it didn't, you couldn't even back up. We had an old water-wagon with surge brakes that =didn't= have this feature and had to make a U-shaped collar to slip into the slide to be able to back the trailer up since any movement backwards would lock up the brakes.
Lyle
โSep-09-2014 08:19 AM
guidry wrote:
If you double tow, most states require brakes on the boat. Check your DVL regs.
โSep-09-2014 08:16 AM
agesilaus wrote:
Your state will have regulations/laws on what they require. Usually trailers above a certain weight must have brakes
โSep-09-2014 07:49 AM
Mile High wrote:Bamaman1 wrote:
Surge brakes work better for boats, as they're mechanical. Water and electrics don't work so well together. And a 19' boat needs brakes and tandem axles.
You're a braver man than me. I'd never consider double towing, and many states prohibit it for a reason. I'd rather rent space in a storage lot for either the boat or the RV close to where I usually camped.
A 19 ft boat could be a fishing boat with a 25 hp outboard, which may not need either! Weight is the criteria, not length.
Only saltwater is an issue for electrics because of corrosion. For freshwater electric is fine and far superior to surge, especially for mountain driving. Surge brakes overheat descending long passes. Converted mine to electric several years ago.
Some (many) brake controllers support additional axles. Just run new 10 gauge all the way back to the truck from the boat, dont tap the RV trailer brakes or you will have too much voltage drop through the factory RV brake wires.
โSep-09-2014 07:34 AM
Bamaman1 wrote:
Surge brakes work better for boats, as they're mechanical. Water and electrics don't work so well together. And a 19' boat needs brakes and tandem axles.
You're a braver man than me. I'd never consider double towing, and many states prohibit it for a reason. I'd rather rent space in a storage lot for either the boat or the RV close to where I usually camped.
โSep-09-2014 07:14 AM
โSep-09-2014 06:30 AM